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So I have been having an intermittent problem with my 06 Attak. Every once and a while over the past few years when I turn the key on nothing happens, no noise or gauges or attempt to do anything, stone dead. Turn the key off then back on and once or twice and good to go for maybe a week or month. This year it has done it twice already in the past two weeks so staring to worry as it is super hard to diagnose this problem. Anyone have this happen before? I have done searches but can’t seem to find the same problem.
74Nitro
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Where your keyswitch plugs into the harness. Have a look at that, or wiggle it next time it fails to start.
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Ok thanks, could it be the kill switch on the bars I wonder, I never use it, I always use the key.
Stubbs
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Like @74Nitro said, I’ve seen a few of this connectors develop poor contact between the male and female terminals on high mile/older sleds. It may be worth throwing the main relay down near the battery/starter on the list as well. They can be intermittent internally and the white connector that plugs into it can develop a case of “green death” on the terminals as well.
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So would that be 11 in this pic, starter relay assy?
Stubbs
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Yes
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Doesn’t that relay only only control that starter? My issue is everything loosing power. No gauge power or fuel pump cycle or anything. Just like the battery is dead but it is not.
74Nitro
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The power for the fuel pump comes from there, that fuse is for the fuel pump.
I think your trouble lies elsewhere given that your dash doesn't come on either.
I think your trouble lies elsewhere given that your dash doesn't come on either.
On an attak the circuit order is.
Main Fuse -> Ignition Fuse -> Starter Switch (should be power available always) Key On -> Load Relay (energized allows power to rest of system)
Since you have intermittent power, it should be corrosion on any of the pins above, load relay is flaky, or you have a bad ground.
If,/when the sled will not turn on, you have power at the ignition switch then its the load relay, or its pins. (power has already passed through the other fuses). I would go through the pins at each stage and make sure they are not corroded, check the functionality of the ignition switch (disconnect and meter for conductivity at all key positions), then check the pins on the load relay. If you can't find anything, swap out the load relay.
Main Fuse -> Ignition Fuse -> Starter Switch (should be power available always) Key On -> Load Relay (energized allows power to rest of system)
Since you have intermittent power, it should be corrosion on any of the pins above, load relay is flaky, or you have a bad ground.
If,/when the sled will not turn on, you have power at the ignition switch then its the load relay, or its pins. (power has already passed through the other fuses). I would go through the pins at each stage and make sure they are not corroded, check the functionality of the ignition switch (disconnect and meter for conductivity at all key positions), then check the pins on the load relay. If you can't find anything, swap out the load relay.
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So is the load relay located above the left foot well? I pulled each relay individually in the left foot well and cycled the key each time and none of them will imitate the problem. The dash illuminates every time I cycled the key. In addition I couldn’t recreate the problem tonight at all, I cycled the key about 50 time and all was good tonight. The closest I could get to a problem was when I wiggled the kill on the bars with the key on, the dash will every so slightly flicker, not go out but just dim / flicker just enough to notice. Another piece of info is I never use the kill on the bars, just the key. Has anyone had a kill switch fail? Do you think my contacts in the switch could be greened up a little from not being used.
Yes, kill switches, as simple as they are, can fail.
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That’s the one I thought it was. When I unplug that relay and turn the key on the dash lights up as it should but fuel pump does not cycle. So I guess it is not that.
Its more likely they have been swapped around. They are just stuck in those holes/holders, sometimes it seems randomly. I was more sharing because it is at least in that general area
I think however that the wire color codes should be unique to the load relay.
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Like I said above, I unplugged each relay individually and cycled the key each time and the dash illuminated every time.
You are right, the circuit bypasses the load relay to power up the panel. That just leaves your kill switch and ignition switch, and of course all the pins and grounds associated with them.
