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Desperate for Electrical Help Ignition Fuse Keeps Blowing(long read)


Mike P said:
Unfortunately because your issue is not currently presenting a problem your best bet is to purchase new harnesses and replace them. You can then take apart the old harnesses very carefully during the off season and locate the issue. The tool in the video would only be useful if you remove the harness or disconnect the harness from the terminations completely. I do believe if you had a component that has gone bad the 40 amp fuse would have rendered the devise useless and your sled would not run. The ING fuse is only 15 amps and is only used for control. You have done a complete visual and functional test on all of your systems and all of them seem OK.
Your issue smells like a harness issue, more than likely going to ground on the chaise caused by insulation failure.

"Got it home and dragged it off trailer with my little Tractor. Got it in shop. Repeated same thing as above same results blow fuse. Took hood off and did not touch anything. Installed fuse and my extension wire so I can run sled with hood off. Fired right up. Now what?"

You may have already found the bad harness. Reassemble and try it again, and stop using 40 amp fuses, your looking for a problem not trying to create one. Use 15 amp only.

"The role of a fuse is not to protect the equipment from damage. It's to ensure that in the event of a fault, the wiring doesn't overheat and cause a fire. The fuse needs to be rated slightly higher than the maximum operating current of the protected device, so that the fuse won't blow when the equipment is used."

Using a 40 amp fuse or jumper to find the issue is very dangerous. The wire used in your harnesses is not rated for the current supplied via a jumper or 40 amp fuse. The battery fuse supplying the fuse block on your Sr Viper is only rated at 30 amps. The fact you are popping a 40 amp in the ING location is very concerning.
Click to expand...
I only used 40amp once. Did put hood back on and all accessories. Still runs fine.
 
Been reading your post....
Use extension harness and run sled with what I call a FUSE SAVER in place of fuse. I would bet that there is a harness rubbing intermittently since before the season you had the whole valve train apart which you had to move a bunch of electrical wiring out of the way.
I have this tool myself. Read up on it.
Hope you track it down.
 

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In looking at the schematics that fuse sends power to the ECU, guage panel and ign switch on the red and white wire. Since it didn’t blow till the key is turned on it has to be after the ign switch. Power looks to leave the ign switch on the red and violet wire going from the hood harness back into the main harness and being sent to the handlebar harness and feeds the kill switch on the bars. From there it goes through the kill switch and sends powere on the red and green wire to the coil side of relays for tail light, fuel pump, headlight and to the ECU. If you can get it to act up again see if it blows the fuse with the kill switch in the engine off position. This would indicate a problem befor the kill switch on the red and violet wire coming from the ign switch . If the kill switch has to be in the run position then it’s on the red and green wire going to the relays and ECU. Not a lot on the hood harness to short to I would be checking the handlebar harness good since the bar harness moves when you turn them and around the fuse box since I believe you relocated it and it may have rubbed through with the miles you have on. Hope this helps
 
Just wondering if you found a solution for the problem.
 
Good Luck . PS. I would have a spare ignition switch at hand just in case.
 
Well something worked because I got 280mi on today and for local that's a lot. Beat the tar out of it and it ran flawlessly. Thank you guys for all the suggestions. Not sure what repair or freak circumstances blew all those fuses but I am calling it good. Really appreciate the encouragement especially.
 
I had some electrical issues yesterday on my 2017 stxdx. I had only ridden about 1 mile after a proper warm up. I shut sled off for about 20 minutes, when I tried to start it I got a warning beeping and error codes. I was concerned that I had blown a fuse as mentioned on these forums. After about 3 hours of letting it sit I went back to the sled and it started right up as normal. I was confused. Only thing I can think of is that moisture got in somewhere. After more thought I am thinking that it gets into the electrical plug right under the hood that plugs in the handle bars, ignition and instrument cluster. When I had the hood off 2 weeks ago I did notice that this plug is in a bad location(right under the vent by the handle bars) and the plug is a poor quality non waterproof plug, not what we are used to from our Japan build sleds. I had no blown fuses as others have had.
 
Some pics of yesterday
Get up and out there by 6 am
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Buddy says he was catching me on top end. Ok.
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End of ride heading to groomer shack
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Tucker 2000. Love that groomer!
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2 am rode it home and parked
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Handy said:
I had some electrical issues yesterday on my 2017 stxdx. I had only ridden about 1 mile after a proper warm up. I shut sled off for about 20 minutes, when I tried to start it I got a warning beeping and error codes. I was concerned that I had blown a fuse as mentioned on these forums. After about 3 hours of letting it sit I went back to the sled and it started right up as normal. I was confused. Only thing I can think of is that moisture got in somewhere. After more thought I am thinking that it gets into the electrical plug right under the hood that plugs in the handle bars, ignition and instrument cluster. When I had the hood off 2 weeks ago I did notice that this plug is in a bad location(right under the vent by the handle bars) and the plug is a poor quality non waterproof plug, not what we are used to from our Japan build sleds. I had no blown fuses as others have had.
Click to expand...
Relay I bet. But some dielectric every plug is a good idea.
 
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