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Desperate for Electrical Help Ignition Fuse Keeps Blowing(long read)

sxr70001 said:
did you look at that spot under the fuse box that some of the guys were talking about?
Click to expand...
Yes first go around. Wires had worn into the aluminum but all the wires were undamaged. Put some UHMV tape under and around where wires touch. Replaced the hood harness with new, Stripped the main harness from ECU to regulator and fusebox inspected all wires individually and rewrapped with stock corrugated plastic and proper tape. Nothing found and is now better than new. I did not do the Handlebar harness other than taking apart both blocks and looking. Same with harness going to rear. Inspected.

I have now removed Both Shift Relays,TailLight,ISC and FuelPump relays and it still pops the ignition fuse and sometimes the Batt fuse now. Every add on such as PCV,Rocz Power distribution thing,Thumb Boost and lights has been disconnected.
 

cannondale27 said:
Yes first go around. Wires had worn into the aluminum but all the wires were undamaged. Put some UHMV tape under and around where wires touch. Replaced the hood harness with new, Stripped the main harness from ECU to regulator and fusebox inspected all wires individually and rewrapped with stock corrugated plastic and proper tape. Nothing found and is now better than new. I did not do the Handlebar harness other than taking apart both blocks and looking. Same with harness going to rear. Inspected.

I have now removed Both Shift Relays,TailLight,ISC and FuelPump relays and it still pops the ignition fuse and sometimes the Batt fuse now. Every add on such as PCV,Rocz Power distribution thing,Thumb Boost and lights has been disconnected.
Click to expand...
Have you tried a different rectifier/regulator?
 
cannondale27 said:
Yes first go around. Wires had worn into the aluminum but all the wires were undamaged. Put some UHMV tape under and around where wires touch. Replaced the hood harness with new, Stripped the main harness from ECU to regulator and fusebox inspected all wires individually and rewrapped with stock corrugated plastic and proper tape. Nothing found and is now better than new. I did not do the Handlebar harness other than taking apart both blocks and looking. Same with harness going to rear. Inspected.

I have now removed Both Shift Relays,TailLight,ISC and FuelPump relays and it still pops the ignition fuse and sometimes the Batt fuse now. Every add on such as PCV,Rocz Power distribution thing,Thumb Boost and lights has been disconnected.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are having the opposite problem I had last year, perhaps these vids might help. At the very least in gives you more information to hopefully narrow things down. Have you switched the battery out with another one yet? I had something similar happen on a Harley and it ended up being the battery, to be exact it only happened with Odyssey batteries. We replaced two before we figured it out.

My Original thread.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/2014-viper-not-charging-input-appreciated.152812/





 
Jamie Gelting said:
Sounds like you are having the opposite problem I had last year, perhaps these vids might help. At the very least in gives you more information to hopefully narrow things down. Have you switched the battery out with another one yet? I had something similar happen on a Harley and it ended up being the battery, to be exact it only happened with Odyssey batteries. We replaced two before we figured it out.

My Original thread.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/2014-viper-not-charging-input-appreciated.152812/





Click to expand...
Disconnected battery and hooked up large boost pack still popped fuse.
 
1.) Does the fuse pop if you have the E-Stop pushed?
2.) What is the first action AFTER replacing fuse that will cause it to pop? (with the E-Stop in run position)

The battery fuse popping is only indicating an issue with the load (the problem) and at 30 amps, with repeated testing it may have been weakened enough to fail.
 
cannondale27 said:
Yes first go around. Wires had worn into the aluminum but all the wires were undamaged. Put some UHMV tape under and around where wires touch. Replaced the hood harness with new, Stripped the main harness from ECU to regulator and fusebox inspected all wires individually and rewrapped with stock corrugated plastic and proper tape. Nothing found and is now better than new. I did not do the Handlebar harness other than taking apart both blocks and looking. Same with harness going to rear. Inspected.

I have now removed Both Shift Relays,TailLight,ISC and FuelPump relays and it still pops the ignition fuse and sometimes the Batt fuse now. Every add on such as PCV,Rocz Power distribution thing,Thumb Boost and lights has been disconnected.
Click to expand...

I really feel for you man, I used to be a field engineer for a larger computer company and I hate problems like that. Not really that familiar with the wiring on my Viper, but can you unplug the harness that goes to the handlebars and then turn on the key or whatever it that pops the fuse or is all the wiring together. I'm sure you have tried everything, but just throwing things out there that might give you and idea. Somewhere 2 wires are touching, something is touching ground or a component is shorted internally. I know not much help! If you were closer you could have my viper to test with.
 
If the fuse pops right away, you currently have a dead short which is the best case, not like a intermittent short (been there done that many times which causes you to pull hair out) which are super tough to find. Hook up a DVOM to the load side of the circuit, (fuse cavity not going to power) and set your DVOM to ohms with the audible alert on (NOT the supply side unless you want to let the magic smoke out of your DVOM) then with the DVOM alarm going off carefully move harness's and remove components until the sound stops, you have now zeroed in on the area of the concern.
Good luck, I have been doing automotive electrical for 40 years and when you find this you will feel very accomplished that you found and fixed the concern.
 
Hummm
 
Atleast it’s blowing all the time now. Just disconnect everything the start plugging things back in.
 
ClutchMaster said:
Atleast it’s blowing all the time now. Just disconnect everything the start plugging things back in.
Click to expand...
Last time I removed the hood is when it stopped popping fuses. Am just about at point where to disconnect anymore I have to remove the hood. I am so afraid its going to stop popping them that I am working on it in the trailer where it drove onto under its own power!
 
Crazy thing is that at one point it stopped blowing Ignition fuse and blew 2 Batt fuses in a row. Thats 30amp fuse. I cannot get it to blow Batt fuse again now.
 
One more ride in the UP, I'll bring the marshmallows
:-o
 
One of the few things connected directly to the battery and the ignition is the starter or solenoid
 
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