Hey Steve, I’m 100% certain that these electrical tools will finally uncover the mystery.
Once you find EXACTLY the root cause, give me a call. I’m real curious.
Mike P
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When you take apart the harness focus on the RED/VLT wire, pin #3 is hot from the key/switch in the "on" position. It is the feed for the E-Stop. You had mentioned the fuse pops with the E-Stop open or closed.
Mtnviper
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One thing to keep in mind about electronic short detectors, is that they search for magnetic fields caused by current flow. The thing that you have to watch out for is if there are any relays that are currently energized. Some of the tools will pick up an energized relay as a false signal due to the magnetic field with in the relay coil.
My preferred method for detecting shorts in fused circuit 10 amps or higher is to use a halogen head light bulb. To use a bulb, make a harness long enough so that you can sit the bulb off to the side (the bulb gets very hot). On one end of your harness use terminals to fit the bulb, on the other use spade terminals the same size as the fuse blades.
Then plug the bulb harness into where the fuse connects and turn on the key. If the bulb illuminates, you currently have a short. At this point you'll want to SLOWLY and gently start touching/moving the wiring harness. Start at one end while checking the bulb to see if it goes out when you get to a specific area. If it does then your close to the fault!
If the bulb doesn't illuminate when you turn the key on, you can still use it. Only in this case your watching for the bulb to illuminate when you get to the suspect area.
For fused circuits less then 10 amps I use a 194 bulb instead, as they only draw about an amp instead of the 6 to 7 amps that a halogen head light bulb draws. This is so that you don't overheat the smaller gauge wires in the lower amperage circuits.
My preferred method for detecting shorts in fused circuit 10 amps or higher is to use a halogen head light bulb. To use a bulb, make a harness long enough so that you can sit the bulb off to the side (the bulb gets very hot). On one end of your harness use terminals to fit the bulb, on the other use spade terminals the same size as the fuse blades.
Then plug the bulb harness into where the fuse connects and turn on the key. If the bulb illuminates, you currently have a short. At this point you'll want to SLOWLY and gently start touching/moving the wiring harness. Start at one end while checking the bulb to see if it goes out when you get to a specific area. If it does then your close to the fault!
If the bulb doesn't illuminate when you turn the key on, you can still use it. Only in this case your watching for the bulb to illuminate when you get to the suspect area.
For fused circuits less then 10 amps I use a 194 bulb instead, as they only draw about an amp instead of the 6 to 7 amps that a halogen head light bulb draws. This is so that you don't overheat the smaller gauge wires in the lower amperage circuits.
GR8BBQ
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Fantastic idea, I have just added this to my mental toolbox, hopefully I never have to use it though!
YukonMP
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My mental toolbox is a black hole, anything I put in there is gone for good.
Well that wasnt it. Have the Voltage regulator in freezer right now since it seems like something has to be froze to pop the fuse. Major issue now is the fuse wont pop. Everything works fine and tests fine. Taking a break and working on front bulkhead removal. Thats fun compared to the electrical Pixie hunt!
Jeff Woodward
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Curious if when the fuse isn't blowing if you still get a false-positive in the handlebar harness with the circuit tracer?
What’s your amp reading when the fuse doesn’t blow on that circuit.
Is it low) normal) or on the ragged edge of blowing.
Fuse buddy pro will determine that.
I would leave the fuse buddy pro connected and watch the digital readout for fluctuating amp readings while your doing your testing.
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Yes I do
.4-.5 amp is all that fuse is drawing right now no matter how much I move wires. Really puts a kink in plans.
The false positive was a relay that put out a big false positive but is working perfectly.
He has these,10,15, 20 amp breakers,
If they trip, there’s a short,
Also has digital amp readout capabilities and fault tracer.
Just has to track it down.
Well that’s your baseline,
Unfortunately you’ll have to watch for any rise during your testing unfortunately.
Atleast you can see what the circuit is telling you.
Yes huge help! Hoping the froze regulator will spike that reading.
