Just wondering what the difference is? I ride mostly trails but occasional playing in the ditches. I have a set of C & A Pro razors now they are alright but the sled is a bear to turn when riding hard all day. Any one have experience with pilots and razors. If you have switched to pilots which are better 5.7 or 6.9.
DaveRX1
Expert
1.2"
Jeffz
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2007 Phazer "RTX"
The number is the width of the ski. 5.7" and 6.9".
Is there any difference in the carbide placement and how would the 6.9 work for mostly trail riding.
SpecRTX
Expert
The 6.9s have deeper keels. I had 5.7s on my Nytro which worked good on hardpack. However, anything else and they would push bad. If you have your heart set on pilots, I would go with the 6.9s.
I just switched to Curves this year. Great ski.
I just switched to Curves this year. Great ski.
nytroD
Pro
so the 6.9 were way better? i also found the 5.7 to be not good enough in fresh snow.
markowinnipeg
Extreme
Have 6.9's great on and off trail
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
If your asking get the 6.9s as they are better all around.
BADSLED
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SpecRTX said:The 6.9s have deeper keels. I had 5.7s on my Nytro which worked good on hardpack. However, anything else and they would push bad. If you have your heart set on pilots, I would go with the 6.9s.
I just switched to Curves this year. Great ski.
How much deeper is the keel on Pilot 6.9's over 5.7's? Also, how do the Curve skis compare in steering effort to the Pilot's?
SpecRTX
Expert
Not sure how much deeper the keel is between the two. Steering effort is about the same with the Curves. Keep in mind that when I had the 5.7s on, I had to shorten my front limiter straps to apply more ski pressure (increasing effort). I needed this for bite in the turns. With my Curves, I let the strap out to stock setting and the skis carve.
Southern Renegade
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by the design of the ski most of the flotation is on the inside with 6.9's. The 5.7 are better on trails than the yammi skis but will still lack flotation in the ditches. when I had my XTX I tried both and ended up with yammi mountain skis due to changing over parts. best case is trying someone;s skis if you can.
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
I find 6.9 float pretty good, but don't have the bite to turn in the fluff. All depends on how much compromise you want for steering effort on hard packed vs bite in the fluff. For a relaxed easy steering ski on hard packed, the pilots work great, but I'll take the C&A pro XT or XTX skis anyday for riding soft trails. My GF can't steer the C&A skis so the doo pilots work good for her.
Dan
Dan
BADSLED
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Dano said:I find 6.9 float pretty good, but don't have the bite to turn in the fluff. All depends on how much compromise you want for steering effort on hard packed vs bite in the fluff. For a relaxed easy steering ski on hard packed, the pilots work great, but I'll take the C&A pro XT or XTX skis anyday for riding soft trails. My GF can't steer the C&A skis so the doo pilots work good for her.
Dan
That's exactlymy position right now.. I used C&A XT's last year and would like to reduce steering effort by going to Pilot 6.9's without giving up too much bite in soft conditions... Will have to try and see.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
On my old nytro we had the rear shocks re-valved, and changed nothing else...and the steering effort is much much easier, along with much better cornering.
This is with the same skis, (C&A Pro Razors, and 8" carbides) as last year when I had the sled, all the limiters in the same spot, same air pressure in front float shocks.
It seems to just work much better. The sled "sits in" real nice when you're standing/sitting on it. It transfers weight much better.
Can't even describe how much better it takes the bumps.
I only bring all this up, cause you guys mention steering effort and C&A Pro skis. If you want to run aggressive skis that work well, and not have huge steering effort, try valving your shocks.
This is with the same skis, (C&A Pro Razors, and 8" carbides) as last year when I had the sled, all the limiters in the same spot, same air pressure in front float shocks.
It seems to just work much better. The sled "sits in" real nice when you're standing/sitting on it. It transfers weight much better.
Can't even describe how much better it takes the bumps.
I only bring all this up, cause you guys mention steering effort and C&A Pro skis. If you want to run aggressive skis that work well, and not have huge steering effort, try valving your shocks.
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