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diving deeper into belt issues

we were modding my buddys new sled chain case , since mines completely exploded and back order is the common answer for parts,,, and during disassembly, the 2 lock nuts that hold the main chassis post by stock exhaust spring were put on finger tight - nylocs not even used yet - checked all bolts - many were loose - all spars were loose - we got a 1/4 - 1/2 turn or more out of almost everything - no quality control whatsoever - everything thats cat on this thing needs to be checked and or redone, tightened and red locitied ---- still love my sled... hate the cat thing ---- but if it wasnt for that influence - youd never see this motor - sooo is it worth it? yep... the motor makes the vehicle
- i machined .100 off 2ndary clutch, didnt touch the large main aluminum bushing, added enough washers in front to get the helix to have .035 of float inward and .015 out, so about .05 total - switched to 8dn with stock springs, helix, and thunder rollers in both, dalton weights and changed inner 2ndary washer to a 2mm or .08 washer which was actually .072,, i added more washer behind 2ndary because i probably machined a little too much off but no bigee.. i havent blown a belt in 900 - best i got before then was 450... but i blew a case so im done i guess... almost 6 weeks ago - still not back.... also tightened up all bolts.... blown 6 or 8 belts with this thing before then.... and 2 belt protectors and a belly. im using justons pan next but drilling more holes near the top ---- anyway - we'll see.. my 2ndary was sticking out .065 to the spec. before these mods.. adding venting also, SJ is making me...
 
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I have seen many variations of basically the same thing. I don't think most of us are doing anything wrong in the clutching dept. Most of us have backed off on the driven spring a little. It would be so nice to have a secondary that has stationary float while also having the ability to adjust deflection. It appears that the better offset numbers are in the 58 ish range. I still maintain either the front or back is getting pulled out of parallel under load (but I don't have proof of this). I can tell you that if I could get 1000 miles out of a belt I'd be happy. Imo that's a lot to ask for a rubber band especially at 270.
 
Doowithblue said:
I have seen many variations of basically the same thing. I don't think most of us are doing anything wrong in the clutching dept. Most of us have backed off on the driven spring a little. It would be so nice to have a secondary that has stationary float while also having the ability to adjust deflection. It appears that the better offset numbers are in the 58 ish range. I still maintain either the front or back is getting pulled out of parallel under load (but I don't have proof of this). I can tell you that if I could get 1000 miles out of a belt I'd be happy. Imo that's a lot to ask for a rubber band especially at 270.
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I completely agree , there’s many different variations of the same issue.

It’s funny you say that everyone has found that the lower side of the offset spec is working best ( 58.1mm). Anything I’ve read says to set it at 61 mm. My clutches are bang on 61 mm. With excellent belt life.
 
Joe ltx-le said:
I completely agree , there’s many different variations of the same issue.

It’s funny you say that everyone has found that the lower side of the offset spec is working best ( 58.1mm). Anything I’ve read says to set it at 61 mm. My clutches are bang on 61 mm. With excellent belt life.
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I'm at 60.65mm.
 
Like I mentioned earlier I really don't think offset is playing a huge role in belts blowing. 58-61? Yes.
 
Byam said:
Hi SJ
Honestly no one is durable whit BIG HP, the bushing are always coming out clockwise no mather who make them no matter the press fit pressure:-( People who doesn't have primary roller problems are probably just not riding as hard as they think....
Its crasy but the worst one on my sled are suppose to be the most durable. Maybe it was a bad batch but bushing were coming out as the other...

Gforce S2 weight are desing to run whit big roller. Pretty flat at the beginning aud more agrssive at the end. I don't like big roller even whit higher cam angle to much loss of "snap" down low . My opinion

The toughest one to date, are brand new oem 14.5, bushing removed and put back in crazy glue:confused::crap::hide:
I put the bushing a the end of the roller left side and create a little lip whit crazy glue on the right side!( clutch on the sled looking at it) When i did that i had no expectations but it is what it is!!!
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I don't have a ton of miles on the Thunder rollers, but I'd guess about 700 aggressive miles with 265hp and they look still look good.
 
waldo1 said:
we were modding my buddys new sled chain case , since mines completely exploded and back order is the common answer for parts,,, and during disassembly, the 2 lock nuts that hold the main chassis post by stock exhaust spring were put on finger tight - nylocs not even used yet - checked all bolts - many were loose - all spars were loose - we got a 1/4 - 1/2 turn or more out of almost everything - no quality control whatsoever - everything thats cat on this thing needs to be checked and or redone, tightened and red locitied ---- still love my sled... hate the cat thing ---- but if it wasnt for that influence - youd never see this motor - sooo is it worth it? yep... the motor makes the vehicle
- i machined .100 off 2ndary clutch, didnt touch the large main aluminum bushing, added enough washers in front to get the helix to have .035 of float inward and .015 out, so about .05 total - switched to 8dn with stock springs, helix, and thunder rollers in both, dalton weights and changed inner 2ndary washer to a 2mm or .08 washer which was actually .072,, i added more washer behind 2ndary because i probably machined a little too much off but no bigee.. i havent blown a belt in 900 - best i got before then was 450... but i blew a case so im done i guess... almost 6 weeks ago - still not back.... also tightened up all bolts.... blown 6 or 8 belts with this thing before then.... and 2 belt protectors and a belly. im using justons pan next but drilling more holes near the top ---- anyway - we'll see.. my 2ndary was sticking out .065 to the spec. before these mods.. adding venting also, SJ is making me...
Click to expand...
I had 2 bolts on mine that never had any nuts on them at all. Also, I almost could have loosened the chain tensioner nut and oil drain bolt with my fingers.
 
74Nitro said:
I had 2 bolts on mine that never had any nuts on them at all. Also, I almost could have loosened the chain tensioner nut and oil drain bolt with my fingers.
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We're getting kind of off topic, but maybe not since one prevailing theory is being out of parallel under load, which could certainly be assembly and the motor mounts or spar bolts not being tight. To throw fuel on this fire - I picked up my new '18 LTX SE last week and started to disassemble some of it to install my aftermarket goodies that I salvaged from my '17 RTX and the primary clutch practically fell off. It couldn't have been torqued on more than 20 ft lbs in total. A good dealer would have checked that, but how the hell can AC check offset (I had 1 shim behind secondary) if the primary isn't torqued down!
 
I might book a session with jeremy across the border in MI and see if we can find out what's causing these things to pop belts like candy.
 
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