Do you really need to Drain the Engine Oil??

[Nivled]

Just curious if you “need” to drain the engine oil to service the chain case? Can I just remove the oil case? Reason being I had already drained my engine oil and was attempting to take the chain case cover off and the bolt shown is stripped. Was going to just finish the oil change and button her up. Figured I’d just wait and service the chain case this spring/summer once I find my "easy out" but didn’t want to have to change the oil again.

Also, looking into switching out the Chain Case Torx Heads for some Socket Heads. Figured they'd be more durable. Has anyone else considered this?

 

[Allan]

You can service the chain case with out changing engine oil .

 

[Carla 123]

Just curious if you “need” to drain the engine oil to service the chain case? Can I just remove the oil case? Reason being I had already drained my engine oil and was attempting to take the chain case cover off and the bolt shown is stripped. Was going to just finish the oil change and button her up. Figured I’d just wait and service the chain case this spring/summer once I find my "easy out" but didn’t want to have to change the oil again.

View attachment 136915


Also, looking into switching out the Chain Case Torx Heads for some Socket Heads. Figured they'd be more durable. Has anyone else considered this?

View attachment 136916

Ulmer sells the bolt kit for the chaincase. It's on his website

 

[Nivled]

Ulmer sells the bolt kit for the chaincase. It's on his website

Has anyone ordered the Ulmer kit before? Do you know what comes in the kit? Is it just the hex head bolts? Are they stainless steel? Black-oxide? I checked the website and it didn’t say.

https://www.ulmerracing.com/productdetail.htm?productId=-6454862

 

[rebmo]

One of mine stripped first time. I took a hack saw blade and cut a straight big slot across the head. Took a big flathead screwdriver that tightly fit in the slot, a crescent wrench on the screw driver shaft and out it came.
Try heating (just the head as much as possible) with a fine tip propane torch (careful not to melt or start a fire and have a extinguisher handy jic) Frees the loctite and they come out much easier. Proceed at your own risk.

 

[Allan]

One of mine stripped first time. I took a hack saw blade and cut a straight big slot across the head. Took a big flathead screwdriver that tightly fit in the slot, a crescent wrench on the screw driver shaft and out it came.
Try heating (just the head as much as possible) with a fine tip propane torch (careful not to melt or start a fire and have a extinguisher handy jic) Frees the loctite and they come out much easier. Proceed at your own risk.

I did the same thing.

 

[viper strike]

Warm up the aluminium not the bolt...you want the aluminum to expand not the bolt. this will also help losssen the locktight they use.

 

[Nivled]

EZ Out Bolt Extractor ($3.99) worked... kinda....... ended up snapping the head off the bolt then I used vice grips to unscrew it. Took about 5 min. Went to menards and bought all new socket cap hex bolts. $0.59 each. Torx bolts for this application was just a bad idea Yamaha...

 

[rebmo]

The purpose for heating is to weaken the Loctite blue (up to 50 psi bonding strength which can be hard to overcome with a Torx drive). Heating the screw head does a good job of directing heat to the “bond”. Once the bond is weakened the effort to remove the screw can be reduced.

 

[SumpBuster]

I didn't watch the whole service by Excell, but the (engine oil) tank was not removed (from the chaincase) when he changed oil, engine and chaincase, and inspected the chaincase. I saw him removing the chaincase bolts with an impact driver. Sometimes the torque from a wrench ruins the heads not only on torx but those soft cheapass philips head screws in the old rx1 belly side covers. I since used an impact driver and hammer and haven't ruined one since.