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Drag n fly test today

Did you try using the stock primary spring with these weights?
 

I have nothing in the heel, nothing in the midrange, bolt in the OD, and a bolt/washer in the tip.
Using the 66-300 spring, O-P-O.
My secondary has the silver spring at 3-3.
I hook up well, pulls good midrange, and revs to 10,600 pretty quick. My problem is, it kinda stops pulling up top.
It feels soft, from the mid-top transition. My sled has never been much of a runner over 100 mph NO MATTER WHAT CLUTCHING I have. 24-40 gearing.
What should I do to cure that soft spot??
 
rehm70 said:
I have nothing in the heel, nothing in the midrange, bolt in the OD, and a bolt/washer in the tip.
Using the 66-300 spring, O-P-O.
My secondary has the silver spring at 3-3.
I hook up well, pulls good midrange, and revs to 10,600 pretty quick. My problem is, it kinda stops pulling up top.
It feels soft, from the mid-top transition. My sled has never been much of a runner over 100 mph NO MATTER WHAT CLUTCHING I have. 24-40 gearing.
What should I do to cure that soft spot??
Click to expand...

What are your RPM's out of the hole? To help cure the soft spot, you need to get to 10,800 and hold until you are well over 100mph and if you are on good condition let the engine RPM and roll up to 11,000 up top. At least I think... I seem to be second guessing myself lately with these weights.
 
Im 10,500 right away then up to 10,7.
The soft spot seems to be when I get to 10,5....
Like Scott said, maybe the silver in the 2ndary is slippin the belt. Gonna try and wrap it to 70
 
Do not use silver secondary spring with hc,s in a 4 stroke. The primary overpowers the secondary the driven overshifts & you get big belt slip.
Been der dun dat in 03!!!
hc,s need a lot of secondary tension to work the best. There may be other opinions out there but thats just what i found.
 
Turk said:
Do not use silver secondary spring with hc,s in a 4 stroke. The primary overpowers the secondary the driven overshifts & you get big belt slip.
Been der dun dat in 03!!!
hc,s need a lot of secondary tension to work the best. There may be other opinions out there but thats just what i found.
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Mike, I know you use the pink sec spring for the Apex, but do you use the white sec spring for the Attack with the D&F's?
 
I have 08 Nytro with dfyam60 the manual says use 4.7 in the shoulder and nothing else , but I had too much overrev took out d&f's weighed them without shoulder weight 58g too light added steel bolt 3.2g+washer 1g put it in tip hole weight now = stock 62g put back in added shoulder weight ran still too much so I changed my helix to 47 degree
set tension like Mr AAEN says ran alittle too loose on secondary tightened up a bit runs pretty good backshift and upshift are good but raced my brother who has the same sled, but stock and only beat him by 1.5 lengths felt it should have been more. Any suggestions other than gearing
 
Re: Drag & fly's

ptt said:
Hi, The kit comes with two primary springs, they have higher spring "rates" vs the stock primary springs, some people don't like the higher engagement and higher mid range rpm's.

So I have been testing using the stk. primary spring, these weights work with the stk primary showing excellent results throughout the power band, running stock engagement and stock mid range rpm's. The sled feels "tame" when your not on the throttle, pull the throttle (ptt) and it's a animal.

Through out the years some have stated that clutch "kits" only make a sled feel faster b/c the kits are using higher spring rates, I believe we have proved this theory wrong.

I have also been keeping the secondary stock. I have and will continue to test different helix angles, once I have found the angles that the sled likes/needs for all conditions I will offer one, as long as it warrants the cost vs improvement. As of this time, I have not found it.
The stk secondary works well.

Happy TrailsScott i found the stock helix worked as good as any other aftermarket helix out there when i had my yammies set up for fast trail,using various secondary springs,still the yammi silver worked the best w/stock helix cut for O.D. i only removed .125 from the hub,and left the primary all stock,also leave the windage plates off the secondary,you dont need hot belts lol,i am picking up my new again yammi 07 apex gt,this coming monday,but had bad luck w/randys new cra arm on my doo,so i still have that bad taste in my mouth w/his stuff right now,but i do like the sounds of these dragonfly weights,dave abbott has been running them in his mod and stock stuff for sometime w/great results,but back to top end,running i dont think any weight made to run in a stock yammi primary out performs the stock weight that comes in the apex for all out top end speed,and i have used a trick or too to get more tip weight on them for better belt squeeze on top. Pete

Scott (ptt)
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SledFreak said:
I went for a ride again today. Still the same thing. I added 1 washer to the OD as Scott recomended. From the start it spins a bit, pulls 10,500 and boggs down a bit, then back to 10,500 then to 11,000, but I'm hitting 11,000-11,100 before I even hit 75+mph. From a roll @60, it goes straight to 11,000-11,100 instantly. Over reving to much . Conditions were alot harder today. It drizzled yesterday, then froze up, but it was 0 degrees Cel, when I went out today, so it was a little loose, but overall pretty good. I would have thought it would have pulled the RPM's down with it being harder and it did not.

Setup is this still Stainless Bolt in the Heel, 1 small set screw in the center (1.5g), 1 small set screw in the tip (1.5G) and 1 bolt + 1washer in the OD with o-p-o primary spring and stock sec @3-3.

I'm over reving way to early... @75mph I',m at 11,000-11,100 most of the time.

I hit 107mph on the GPS on a 1 mile stretch running 23/40 gearing...

Andy
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First check if the belt is slipping in the secondary....look on the tube behind the secondary for belt dust.
If you don't find any dust don't change your spring.(one thing at time)
To me it sounds like your spinning out of the gate, you need better traction to cure the rpm drop. You can do two things, add more weight to middle hole or change the start rate on the helix.(remember one thing at a time) I would add more weight before you change the helix.
The best thing to do is add weight until it can't pull it any more, in the rpm range that you want. It takes time but the results will pay off in the end.
In a perfect world you want the rpm to flash at 10400/10500 and climb to 10800/10900, in the distance you want to set your sled up for.....then you throw in traction problems due to different snow conditions, belt slippage, shifting out to quick, and the list goes on............we are all suckers for punishment.
 
I'm working with Scott @Boss to get them dialed, but thank's for the help...
 
Installing D N F with nylon or steel washers????
 
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