yamadog1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
washer
use steel
use steel
**sj**
Lifetime Member
stainless steel provided in the kit!
gotta-b-blue
Extreme
frustrated
I also am having a hard time getting them dialed in. I know that I am throwing too much weight at them, 5.2 center, 5.2 overdrive, 3.2 tip, and 3 washers in the shoulder. I am running the stock primary spring and white secondary spring at 60*. I could not keep it off the rev limiter using the white primary. My sled runs like an animal to around 118 mph on the dream meter rpms at 10900-11000 then after about 1/2 mile it finally falls off to like 10300-10400. I can be going any speed and pin it and it hops right up where it needs to be. This happen in all conditions. I think I need a steeper starting angle. 136 track with 216 studs.
I also am having a hard time getting them dialed in. I know that I am throwing too much weight at them, 5.2 center, 5.2 overdrive, 3.2 tip, and 3 washers in the shoulder. I am running the stock primary spring and white secondary spring at 60*. I could not keep it off the rev limiter using the white primary. My sled runs like an animal to around 118 mph on the dream meter rpms at 10900-11000 then after about 1/2 mile it finally falls off to like 10300-10400. I can be going any speed and pin it and it hops right up where it needs to be. This happen in all conditions. I think I need a steeper starting angle. 136 track with 216 studs.
yamadog1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
helix
like turk says a stock helix is a true 48-42 if you want more try a advant-edge 48-40 that works well.
like turk says a stock helix is a true 48-42 if you want more try a advant-edge 48-40 that works well.
Turk
Tech Advisor
I no longer have availability of an apex for testing. I did some tweaking to the nytro set up & got it pulling same top end as stock weights with just a helix & mass placement change. If somebody wants to loan me an apex for a weekend I now know in which direction to start heading for a better set up.
If anyone wants to test I would start loading heel & tip heavy & gradually filling in the mid if needed to get rpm,s right. this worked magic on a nytro.
If anyone wants to test I would start loading heel & tip heavy & gradually filling in the mid if needed to get rpm,s right. this worked magic on a nytro.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
Turk said:I no longer have availability of an apex for testing. I did some tweaking to the nytro set up & got it pulling same top end as stock weights with just a helix & mass placement change. If somebody wants to loan me an apex for a weekend I now know in which direction to start heading for a better set up.
If anyone wants to test I would start loading heel & tip heavy & gradually filling in the mid if needed to get rpm,s right. this worked magic on a nytro.
by tip..you mean tip..what's your position on the O.D. ?
Turk
Tech Advisor
I only use the od if I need more rpm,s in the mid. I set these up like the original 1 piece hc,s & find it pulls strong all the way thru the shift...but...setting em up aggressively like this nukes backshift in deep snow. trail backshifting on hard pack is still good.
gotta-b-blue
Extreme
50/40
I am going to try the Dalton 50/40 I ran with Turk's SRX set-up.
I am going to try the Dalton 50/40 I ran with Turk's SRX set-up.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2005
- Messages
- 5,514
- Location
- Ontario. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Current 2020 ThunderCat. - SOLD!
Turk said:I only use the od if I need more rpm,s in the mid. I set these up like the original 1 piece hc,s & find it pulls strong all the way thru the shift...but...setting em up aggressively like this nukes backshift in deep snow. trail backshifting on hard pack is still good.
Where should these things run.. Max RPM of 10,800 for the quickest to a 100 and fastest for top end.
My take is the stock helix is good, but there might be a batter combo or maybe a better way of loading these weights. I also believe we should all be using the same Primary spring, but alot of use are using different ones because of the stiff spring that comes with the kit. It's a bitch.. Plus some of us are running 22/38 gearing and others 23/38, which I believe is causing havic as well. I think were all about 70 perecent, but not perfect.
If I lived near you Mike, I would give you my sled. It just seems like everyone is all over the map with these things and I don't believe we should be like that.
Turk
Tech Advisor
If i had an apex for 1 afternoon I know I could get a great set up now knowing what I now know about these weights.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2005
- Messages
- 5,514
- Location
- Ontario. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Current 2020 ThunderCat. - SOLD!
Turk said:I no longer have availability of an apex for testing. I did some tweaking to the nytro set up & got it pulling same top end as stock weights with just a helix & mass placement change. If somebody wants to loan me an apex for a weekend I now know in which direction to start heading for a better set up.
If anyone wants to test I would start loading heel & tip heavy & gradually filling in the mid if needed to get rpm,s right. this worked magic on a nytro.
Mike, what am I looking for If I load the tip and heel heavy. To what extent do I stop loading? How do I know when to start loading in the center to get my RPM's right? When my RPM is right, top speed is matched to stock? This almost seems backwards to me..
Turk
Tech Advisor
Load the tip & arm to the nutz. Check rpm,s. If you overrev add mid weight. If you underrev take away from tip. this is the way the original hc,s worked well for me. You can just tell the way the sled feels. check speedo/tach & check clutch temps.
BADSLED
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2004
- Messages
- 1,355
- Location
- Syracuse, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Nytro MC Xpress 270
2011 Apex SE
2021 Sidewinder LTX SE - SOLD
"Turk" By saying TIP do you mean shoulder or the actual tip of the weight???
Turk
Tech Advisor
tip = tip of weight
**sj**
Lifetime Member
turk you've verbalized what Ive been fighting..see if this makes sounds right
with the two speeds...the hammer squeezed down low...decoupled and acted light mid and came back in on top to pull...acting like heavy-light-heavy squeeze....
the dnf's the heel provides the fulcrum...but doesnt decouple...and doesnt come back in on top..mass is needed at the tip...so
essentially ignore the overdrive....to me it's a misnamed hole...what ive been seeing is the overdrive affects the mid as much as the tip maybe more? if you look at the torque curve of the motor ...its nice and flat and the unlike the stock weight the dnf weight is curved....adding the tip til you hit the mark "flattens" the curve of the weight to match the torque curve of the motor...get your top end right....once right on top end..tune the midrange by adding weight
with the two speeds...the hammer squeezed down low...decoupled and acted light mid and came back in on top to pull...acting like heavy-light-heavy squeeze....
the dnf's the heel provides the fulcrum...but doesnt decouple...and doesnt come back in on top..mass is needed at the tip...so
essentially ignore the overdrive....to me it's a misnamed hole...what ive been seeing is the overdrive affects the mid as much as the tip maybe more? if you look at the torque curve of the motor ...its nice and flat and the unlike the stock weight the dnf weight is curved....adding the tip til you hit the mark "flattens" the curve of the weight to match the torque curve of the motor...get your top end right....once right on top end..tune the midrange by adding weight
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