Loosen track. 2 options either split caliper or preferred method is removing 3 bolts in tunnel and removing caliper/disc as one. First split method:
The disc wasn't bad getting off just need to wiggle it off working around it by hand. Be sure to pull straight or you will stick it. Please do this. Both bearings are covered in a dry belt dust ugly grease. No way they will last long under these conditions. A cleaning with WD40 and repack with a good grease yearly is called for. I use a dental pick to carefully pop the seals starting at inner race. Check it out. May consider this nice disc as a upgrade and reward for your nasty work.
The disc wasn't bad getting off just need to wiggle it off working around it by hand. Be sure to pull straight or you will stick it. Please do this. Both bearings are covered in a dry belt dust ugly grease. No way they will last long under these conditions. A cleaning with WD40 and repack with a good grease yearly is called for. I use a dental pick to carefully pop the seals starting at inner race. Check it out. May consider this nice disc as a upgrade and reward for your nasty work.
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IH8CROWS
Expert
Is that an aftermarket disc from somewhere or a Yamaha part?
AC. Yamaha may be offering it now since I believe some LE's have it. Main reason I put it on is attempt to stop the squealing I often get. Not sure but I think main reason for that is the groove wore in Pads from the Pistons. It's quite deep. Will replace them after a bit to see if disc is culprit.
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new rob
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Finally great job cannondale now a step by step in the facts page would by awesome !! Did my Apexs every year pretty straight forward. My Viper Jackshaft is done (same as apex) but driveshaft with the brake makes me a little nervous. Jackshaft bearing seemed dry can imagine what driveshaft bearing is like it was always the worst one on my apexs .
Yes I agree. Is odd but mine the jackshaft is worse than driveshaft. Very dry almost pure belt dust. It's a nice Koyo Japan bearing also. Drive is China but at least grease was still moist. The caliper comes apart with the 2 big Allen head bolts. Need to use a rag to catch brake fluid which will for sure come out. When you put it back together you will need to add Dot4 and gravity bleed it to ensure no air. Mine had very little air after this procedure. Use a clear hose to bleed don't forget the brake fluid will bubble up your powder coating.
RTX
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2006 apex rtx
Aaahh
So its not just me with the brake squeal.
Seems that every time i make a complaint about a problem i am having there are a few guys without the issue telling me my post is blowing things out of proportion. Theres no brake squeal issues. LOL
Good to see the brake noise is not just my imagination. Sorry to see you have it though.
How many miles you get on the sled before the brakes acted up (squeeling started)?
You say a groove is worn in the pad from the pistons, you mean on theback side of the pads?
Mine was squealing right off the start. Almost from the first pull of the brakes.
Its going into the dealer end of november for multiple issues but if the brakes dont get fixed i will be installing new pads and the BDX light weight rotor
csederlund
Pro
Mine squeals too, the suspension squeals also.
tapex_07
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- '10 Nytro MTX SE IMPULSE 174x3
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'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
Anybody know if the driveshaft is interchangeable with other sleds or models?
kodak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks cannondale have always enjoyed your posts since my phazer complete step by step in sticky would be great for rookies like me.
I wish I could Kodak but it's all together already. Feel free to ask any questions. If anyone feels uncomfortable doing this start with just the Jackshaft bearing I feel at least for this year that is almost mandatory. I don't believe mine would have survived the coming season it was that dry and dirty.
For the driveshaft bearing you will need a good snapring pliers to remove the clip. You will remove the footwell,Caliper guard and the screw holding top of bellypan out. This allows you to pull belly pan side out enough to have plenty of room to use the pliers.
For the driveshaft bearing you will need a good snapring pliers to remove the clip. You will remove the footwell,Caliper guard and the screw holding top of bellypan out. This allows you to pull belly pan side out enough to have plenty of room to use the pliers.
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It would depend on lower gear spline in chaincase. That will be next thing to be inspected.
Front or rear suspension?
I know how you feel. I got same thing in the heated seat thread!
I think you may be right I do vaguely remember the squeal even new so that would eliminate the groove as the issue. Maybe I mentioned it last year but maybe not. Was having to much fun dodging trees to even hear it first few rides.
RTX
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2006 apex rtx
Its real simple. If you have the issue, or a question then post. If you dont just move on to another thread. No need to start the your wrong, that cant happen crap. Just annoying me lately i guess.
Anyways,
when does your squeal?
If i remember correct mine is mainly at low speeds when im coming to a full stop. Like below 10 mph to a stop.
did you replace the pads with yamaha/cat pads or aftermarket?
Do you think applying any of that anti chatter stuff to the back of the pads will make any difference?
sled088
Newbie
It doesn't hurt to clean the bearing out but sealed bearings are not packed with grease check a new one out one of the biggest causes of bearing failure (on a sealed type) is over greasing as the balls can't roll they skid instead.
