Drive/jackshaft bearing repacking

[subaru2006]

Just cleaned both of mine. Results, both had grease but appeared low. Top was white and bottom was blackish in color. Not terrible compared to yours. Only 1100 miles or so. I put new grease in and filled it up the best. The biggest pain in this project is the drive shaft with the brake. Make sure you clean the brake fluid up and have some on hand to replace. And at this point might as well flush the system out and put all new in..


As for the brake noise mine does it at low speed and first think in the morning. Its a loud high pitch. Goes away after a few stops. I hardly use the brakes with the engine braking. First thing in the morning I usually drive around with the brakes applied lightly. Helps.

Subaru2006

 

[cannondale27]

Its real simple. If you have the issue, or a question then post. If you dont just move on to another thread. No need to start the your wrong, that cant happen crap. Just annoying me lately i guess.
Anyways,
when does your squeal?
If i remember correct mine is mainly at low speeds when im coming to a full stop. Like below 10 mph to a stop.
did you replace the pads with yamaha/cat pads or aftermarket?
Do you think applying any of that anti chatter stuff to the back of the pads will make any difference?

Yes same here low speed coming to complete stop. I did not replace pads. I want to do one thing at a time and pad change would only take 2 minutes. I do have some of that anti chatter stuff. Worth a try.

 

[tapex_07]

It would depend on lower gear spline in chaincase. That will be next thing to be inspected.

Ya that's what I figured. Hoping somebody has looked into this. I'd like to get another d/s with some 7t drivers for a 3". Rather than swapping drivers back and fourth..

 

[cannondale27]

Just cleaned both of mine. Results, both had grease but appeared low. Top was white and bottom was blackish in color. Not terrible compared to yours. Only 1100 miles or so. I put new grease in and filled it up the best. The biggest pain in this project is the drive shaft with the brake. Make sure you clean the brake fluid up and have some on hand to replace. And at this point might as well flush the system out and put all new in..


As for the brake noise mine does it at low speed and first think in the morning. Its a loud high pitch. Goes away after a few stops. I hardly use the brakes with the engine braking. First thing in the morning I usually drive around with the brakes applied lightly. Helps.

Subaru2006

Odd your jack shaft bearing wasn't dry like mine. I have over 3000mi though. As for brakes I use them a lot. Way less engine braking on this sled than Phazer.

 

[cannondale27]

It doesn't hurt to clean the bearing out but sealed bearings are not packed with grease check a new one out one of the biggest causes of bearing failure (on a sealed type) is over greasing as the balls can't roll they skid instead.

I disagree. Been doing this for 20 years and have never had a failure of any bearings that were repacked yearly. I do spin them by hand after repacking before putting seal back in. They roll just fine can see them roll. If not repacking then do it as a visual. Visually as bad as jackshaft one was it would have had to be replaced. Greasing it is much easier. Your choice though.

 

[subaru2006]

I come from an apex so I am kinda use to it? Engine braking. Yup still had white grease in mine but as you said you have a couple thousand more then me. I cant see repacking them causing failure. I don't think you could pack enough grease to cause them to skid instead of roll? I usually apply the grease then spin the track. Then I just run my finger over the bearing to cover them and add some where needed to have them covered. Then I put the cover back over. I think if they are greased to much it will just come out like the stock grease did. Lol

Subaru2006

Odd your jack shaft bearing wasn't dry like mine. I have over 3000mi though. As for brakes I use them a lot. Way less engine braking on this sled than Phazer.

 

[nherbst454]

Any tips on removing the seal without damaging it? I tried a pic but no luck so far.

 

[wavemaster]

Any tips on removing the seal without damaging it? I tried a pic but no luck so far.

From the inside race, it is soft rubber and should come right up. You can do it with an exacto or sharp toothpick.

AAGR - Sealed bearings come with a 50% pack. Even on small high speed precision bearings.

 

[stingray719]

Why are you guys taking the brakes apart? I have taken the track out 3 times in two Vipers and never broke the brake slave cylinder down. It is not easy but you can get the cylinder out intact and hang off to the side.

 

[nherbst454]

I just split mine and managed to get the seals out without damage (I think at least). The real pain was to get the snap ring back on so off I went to my lathe and made a tapered tool to expand it and slide it back on to the shaft.

 

[cannondale27]

Why are you guys taking the brakes apart? I have taken the track out 3 times in two Vipers and never broke the brake slave cylinder down. It is not easy but you can get the cylinder out intact and hang off to the side.

You can try. But that disc is a bugger and always seems to be stuck on the end. It would be easier if whole assembly slid off nice.

 

[cannondale27]

I wasn't going to mention this but since brought up. I did do some filing and sanding on end of driveshaft splines in hope that even after use disc will slide right off. What is happening is the clip is causing a distortion of the end of the splines from disc pushing on clip all the time. New they slide right off. Danger is by filing and sanding the clip could come off during use. That's why I didnt mention it since I am experimenting. Try like stingray said pull whole caliper,disc assy. By removing the bolts inside tunnel. If that doesn't work just by pulling by hand then put it back on,split caliper and remove disc by working around it by hand wiggling it. Have patience and only use your hands. It will come off. Last resort is a puller but when that is introduced things can go very badly. I have seen it.

 

[TD Max]

Yes same here low speed coming to complete stop. I did not replace pads. I want to do one thing at a time and pad change would only take 2 minutes. I do have some of that anti chatter stuff. Worth a try.

Did you try a chamfer on the leading edge of the pad?

If the clip is causing a distortion it almost has to be a vibratory/wiggle thing right? I wonder if a thin machine washer between the rotor and the clip might help ease this? A drop or two of Eezox on the splines shouldn't hurt either.

 

[cannondale27]

Very good suggestions. Will try those next before replacing pads. You are correct the disc is floating causing a distortion. It does not need to float at all since both sides of caliper has a piston. Great idea! Thanks.

 

[nherbst454]

For those of you attempting to do this, getting the clip off wasn't that hard but getting it back on was a b***h. Here's what I made to get it expanded so it would slide back on...

The smaller diameter at the right goes inside the hollow shaft and the taper on the left helps the snap ring expand. Next time I have to do this I'll make it out of stainless since the aluminum still had some issues galling.