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drive locked up solid not moving what to look for

laurencen

Newbie
Joined
Dec 30, 2024
Messages
12
Age
67
Location
saskatchewan
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2007 Phazer
did the oil and new gas, motor runs great but after about a mile it started to bog down, stopped and now it will not drive, lifted up the back and its solid, the motor is free, the drive pulley has a few degrees back and forth, something has locked up, have to find a service manual after holidays but how does one remove the drive belt to remove the drive pulley, what is the process to drop track drive need to determine what has broken or seized, sled sat 4 years.

is there a parts breakdown for the drive system anywhere on line to get me started

thanks in advance
 

For the belt, just have to turn and push the inner sheave to slack the belt and then get it over the clutch.

Check the front driveshaft with the sled off the ground and track loosened to try to turn it. To take it out, you have to take the chain case apart and the bearing on the clutch side. Biggest problem may be the set screws on the clutch side bearing. Hopefully it's just that bearing and not the chain case.
 
well here is where Im at
tried to get belt off, no way can I open the sheaves tried turning, twisting and seperating using wlld nothing so for now moved to the other side, pulled the handbreak, hydraulic brake and rotor, seperated the gearcase and all looks good, pulled the drive shaft bearing housing and the fill plate left side that bearing looks good so, took along the track and in the middle both sides its fused to the sliders, after seperating its free again so

question how do I get the drive shaft out? do I need too or just clean up sliders, my son said it just started bogging down and stopped, temperature was minus 12C, he went thro snow a foot deep initially however when it started bogging he came down driveway.

to fuse it had to get hot, real hot what caused this? sliders will clean up should they be replaced? whats correct tension for the drive chain and how does the drive sprockets come off the hex shaft?

thanks for all the assistance on this project
 
That explains the track not moving. You'll have to replace your slides.

What are you calling the drive shaft? It's the one in front with the drive cogs that drive the track and that goes in the the chain case. Sounds like all that is fine and you don't need to remove it. Just the slides that are pooched. That happens in low or no snow or ice only conditions. They need loose snow to lubricate and cool the slides.

Replacing the slides is fairly easy. Just have to loosen the track, remove the screw at the front of the slide (use a no.3 Philips bit on an impact driver), align the track holes at the rear and start hammering the slide backwards with a screwdriver or chisel and hammer out through the hole in the track. It helps to widen the holes a little with a knife. To install the new ones, lube them with some WD40 and feed them back in the same way they came out. Use a rubber mallet hammering on the end all the way back until it contacts the front tip. Re-install the screw.

Found this video that shows it perfectly on a Phazer.

 
thats a great help, will pick up a couple of them tomorrow, too bad I did not notice this earlier though I know a lot about the sled now plus the chaincase had not much oil, barely on the stick and black, can I use regular synthetic gear oil or is that a no no,

its back together now all but the lower plastic covers and battery, still have to see if the drive sheaves open, to me they are tight, may explain the higher RPM when riding over the other sled
 
can I use regular synthetic gear oil or is that a no no,
That's fine. I use 80W90 synth for car diffs.

And since yours is an 07, check for leakage of the chaincase higher towards the reverse gear. Probably the reason it was low is because of a poorly designed oil feed pipe and seal. They fixed it with updated parts.

 
That's fine. I use 80W90 synth for car diffs.

And since yours is an 07, check for leakage of the chaincase higher towards the reverse gear. Probably the reason it was low is because of a poorly designed oil feed pipe and seal. They fixed it with updated parts.

thanks will look at that tonight, I had this sled 4 years, it was used and have no history on it, most of the 4 years it sat not being used, Im thinking the secondary clutch is frozen it just will not move apart to get the belt off, may have to remove primary drive clutch to get to it off and investigate the secondary clutch
 
I've never heard of a secondary seizing up but could be possible. Just to be sure, check this video that shows how to do it:

 
If you do take the secondary apart, you will need a new circlip, #93440-34170-00. It's cheap insurance. There have been instances of them blowing apart when it's reused. If it's seized, you're probably going to need more parts anyway.
 
I continue to be amazed at how helpful and knowledgeable some of the members here are ... nice job Mooseman.
 
well Mooseman got the secondary moving, seems there is a fine line twist and push, also given belt was super tight in the shives due to the track freezing.
picked up the slides will install hopefully tomorrow, its minus 34C tonight but they expect to warm up starting Sunday and will try it out, in the snow of course, gave my son heck running it down the driveway with no snow, sometimes its the way we learn lifes lessons.
thanks for the help with this one
 
Check your belt. It probably got a burnt spot when it locked up. If you have a spare, depending on where it's stored, might be bad as well so check it for cracks. If it's in the little pouch between the A-arms, it's likely junk.
 
yes I have a couple spares as I have 3 machines, the belt was shiny in a couple spots but did not feel any burnt spots, there is likely a belt in the storage pouch on all 3 machines, never looked inside the bags figured when I need them its not at home or workshop.
 


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