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Drive shafts

easy sleder

Extreme
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
117
Location
Montreal burbs
Does anyone know de differences beween these Nytro drive shafts ? And are they interchangeable ?

2008 : 8GL- 47511 -00-00
2009 : 8GL- 47511-10-00
2010+ : 8GL- 47511- 20-00
 

most likely a materials or supplier change.
 
Reason my asking is I need to replace the shaft on my 2010 XTX and the 20-00 is practically none existant on the used market but plenty of 10-00 and 00-00 coming from low mlileage sleds with drivers still on them. Don't want to dish out for a new one since I will sell the sled.
 
my guess is the length, but interchangable. they originally had bolts breaking. I solved mine with a spacer
 
Yours will be the thickest and the longest(I can't believe I just wrote that).
Anyway, the first 08 was short and smaller in diameter.
I'm not sure of the specs on the middle number, it will either be longer with the smaller diameter or short with the thicker diameter.
I had a machine here recently where someone had just left the bolt out completely, but the end adapter was there.
 
You can interchange years as long as you have the correct collar on the end. Collars have different bore depths. You can not use the 10+collar on an 08-09. 08 and 09 collars are the same.
 
Yours will be the thickest and the longest(I can't believe I just wrote that).
Anyway, the first 08 was short and smaller in diameter.
I'm not sure of the specs on the middle number, it will either be longer with the smaller diameter or short with the thicker diameter.
I had a machine here recently where someone had just left the bolt out completely, but the end adapter was there.
a lot out there running with no bolt. the spacer mod is easy and I did mine at like 2000, after the bolt came through the cover. now have 25000
 
Guess I'll be looking out for a 2010 + then , seems like less hassle and safer since mine already sheered near the chaincase, something more common to the Apex .
hibshman25 do you ever see these in your inventory ?

Thanks you all for your helpfull input, specially 74Nityro, the wife will be happy to hear that ... lol
 
Guess I'll be looking out for a 2010 + then , seems like less hassle and safer since mine already sheered near the chaincase, something more common to the Apex .
hibshman25 do you ever see these in your inventory ?

Thanks you all for your helpfull input, specially 74Nityro, the wife will be happy to hear that ... lol
if you want my 2c. broken drive shafts and even the bolt breaking have to do with hitting a stump or rock etc.. could even crack and pop later...
 
Yamaha should have went with the hollow and lighter shafts like they all use today without all the extra bearings in the cover. It was an engineering mistake, but it doesn't really matter now.
I have yet to see a Winder break a shaft and many are twice the power.
 
Guess I'll be looking out for a 2010 + then , seems like less hassle and safer since mine already sheered near the chaincase, something more common to the Apex .
hibshman25 do you ever see these in your inventory ?

Thanks you all for your helpfull input, specially 74Nityro, the wife will be happy to hear that ... lol

I have (2) of the newer shafts in stock. Both have extrovert drivers on them.
 
Yamaha should have went with the hollow and lighter shafts like they all use today without all the extra bearings in the cover. It was an engineering mistake, but it doesn't really matter now.
I have yet to see a Winder break a shaft and many are twice the power.
yes and no, remember the flickable rmk a few years ago. shaft would let go full throttle over a stump and blow the bulk head right off the tunnel. leaves nothing to do accept throw a match on it. hollow steel seems to work..
 
That would make sense since the broken shaft is not a common occurence on the Nytro. I did have this strange virbration in the footwell for a bit even though my belt was fine.
 


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