driveshaft update

[Sidewindo]

Hello all

Planning to do a driver change on my 18 mtx 153. I am looking for insight on what is the best way to go as far as reliability and performance while I have it out. From what I have read so far there is a different part number on the latest shafts. Also there are aftermarkert availabe that save weight. Without making it too complicated with different tolerances what is the best way to go long term. From what i can gather from this design is slipage is mainly due to hard breaking not acceleration( my 2 cents). All input going forward is appreciated

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Hello all

Planning to do a driver change on my 18 mtx 153. I am looking for insight on what is the best way to go as far as reliability and performance while I have it out. From what I have read so far there is a different part number on the latest shafts. Also there are aftermarkert availabe that save weight. Without making it too complicated with different tolerances what is the best way to go long term. From what i can gather from this design is slipage is mainly due to hard breaking not acceleration( my 2 cents). All input going forward is appreciated

The best after market upgrade to correct the loose fit bearing condition @the disc brake location with out the unnecessary replacement of the lower driveshaft is the new concept bearing and collar repair from Barn of Parts.$160.SEE PICS

 

[Turboflash]

Hello all

Planning to do a driver change on my 18 mtx 153. I am looking for insight on what is the best way to go as far as reliability and performance while I have it out. From what I have read so far there is a different part number on the latest shafts. Also there are aftermarkert availabe that save weight. Without making it too complicated with different tolerances what is the best way to go long term. From what i can gather from this design is slipage is mainly due to hard breaking not acceleration( my 2 cents). All input going forward is appreciated

Just FYI - the slippage occurs both ways. Bearing has grease in it providing resistance to turning. Any time the shaft is accelerating faster than the bearing inner race is, slippage occurs. Same thing in reverse on decel.
Glad you're addressing it.

 

[Sevey]

I have the Barn of Parts drive shaft with the longer collar and set screws. Last year was not a good season to really test it - as it was way too short. But checking it this spring it did not move.

Check this product out. Its a guy in Nova Scotia that machined this solution: Hi Tech Mechanical & Coatings. It is a much more robust concept that supports the shaft with two outer bearings that can be greased. If I were to go back in time I likely would have gone in this direction.

In my opinion:
- tried using green loctite mating the shaft and bearing - that didnt work.
- purchased the wedge that fits into the inside of the shaft to expand it - that didnt work.
- I had the shaft spray welded (to build it up) and a pin put into the shaft and the bearing was notched - after two seasons the pin was sheared off - that didnt work.

My gut tells me that over time the set screws on the BOP bearing may not hold and it may spin. Perhaps the long collar will help prevent that. In any event the Hi Tech solution basically is the best way to support the shaft in a poorly engineered chassis. Its design concedes that the chassis flexes and that shaft will spin on the bearing. So it supports the bearing very robustly and greases it in the event it does spin. In this solution that shaft will never grind away and need replacing. With all the other fixes, soon as that shaft spins, it will keep spinning and need replacing.

If you dont agree with the theory - the chaincase side spins all the time, the only reason it doesnt destroy the shaft tolerance is because its bathed in oil.......... food for thought.
Good luck.
MS

 

[REDLINE 1]

I have the Barn of Parts drive shaft with the longer collar and set screws. Last year was not a good season to really test it - as it was way too short. But checking it this spring it did not move.

Check this product out. Its a guy in Nova Scotia that machined this solution: Hi Tech Mechanical & Coatings. It is a much more robust concept that supports the shaft with two outer bearings that can be greased. If I were to go back in time I likely would have gone in this direction.

In my opinion:
- tried using green loctite mating the shaft and bearing - that didnt work.
- purchased the wedge that fits into the inside of the shaft to expand it - that didnt work.
- I had the shaft spray welded (to build it up) and a pin put into the shaft and the bearing was notched - after two seasons the pin was sheared off - that didnt work.

My gut tells me that over time the set screws on the BOP bearing may not hold and it may spin. Perhaps the long collar will help prevent that. In any event the Hi Tech solution basically is the best way to support the shaft in a poorly engineered chassis. Its design concedes that the chassis flexes and that shaft will spin on the bearing. So it supports the bearing very robustly and greases it in the event it does spin. In this solution that shaft will never grind away and need replacing. With all the other fixes, soon as that shaft spins, it will keep spinning and need replacing.

If you dont agree with the theory - the chaincase side spins all the time, the only reason it doesnt destroy the shaft tolerance is because its bathed in oil.......... food for thought.
Good luck.
MS

Found a link.

Hi-Tech Mechanical: Arctic Cat Performance Parts

1100T, 998T, 800 CTEC and 800HO performance parts including Twister Clutch Kit and Tornado Clutch Kit, torsional conversion clutch kits, ECU Reflashing, track shaft durability kits, waste gate locks, bump stops, clutch holding fixtures, vent screens and engine mounts.

www.htmcoating.ca

A bit pricey but looks good
I believe this is Ron Ward

 

[Sevey]

Yes - Ron Ward, we met at the sled show in Toronto last Fall. Nice guy.
Even with the BOP bearing - by the time you ship it and convert the money - it starts to get pricey.
If it doesnt work in 2-4 yrs time, and I have to buy another $400 shaft - the Hi Tech bearing is the better solution.
Time will tell.
MS

 

[REDLINE 1]

Yes - Ron Ward, we met at the sled show in Toronto last Fall. Nice guy.
Even with the BOP bearing - by the time you ship it and convert the money - it starts to get pricey.
If it doesnt work in 2-4 yrs time, and I have to buy another $400 shaft - the Hi Tech bearing is the better solution.
Time will tell.
MS

Ya he’s a good guy. Talked to him a few times on the phone. I have his tornado kit on my stock secondary

 

[KnappAttack]

Regular old BOP driveshaft saver works great time after time as long as the shaft is not worn too bad. It works great on a new unworn shaft when tightened down and normalized properly. Not so good on a shaft thats worn too far.

Correct me if I'm wrong as I've never had a mountain "MTX" in the shop, but don't they had a different shaft on them that has a nut on them to tighten down on the disc & bearing on them? I thought the MTX was setup this way stock anyway, maybe I'm wrong on that, but I swear I read that somewhere and saw a different design on them.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Ya my original BOP shaft saver seems to be working good as well I put it on shortly after I got my sled

 

[KnappAttack]

Ya my original BOP shaft saver seems to be working good as well I put it on shortly after I got my sled

Yes, I use them on newer shafts and they have proven to work great holding the bearing on the shaft after being run for thousands of miles. Had a couple machines thru here where guys have tried them on worn shafts and were a failure however and still spun and ruined the shaft and brake disc. When a shaft has upwards much over 2500-3000 miles or so, it could already be too late unless on the newer harder shafts. I still use the Shaft Saver on the new shafts, even though the new shaft is harder and shows less wear. Its just wrong that that bearing can and does slip on the shaft, so using the BOP shaft saver is a no brainer to fix this issue. I've never tried the BOP new style for worn shafts, myself I'd be fixing the shaft or getting a new shaft first, then using the shaft saver or wedge on it when new.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Yes, I use them on newer shafts and they have proven to work great holding the bearing on the shaft after being run for thousands of miles. Had a couple machines thru here where guys have tried them on worn shafts and were a failure however and still spun and ruined the shaft and brake disc. When a shaft has upwards much over 2500-3000 miles or so, it could already be too late unless on the newer harder shafts. I still use the Shaft Saver on the new shafts, even though the new shaft is harder and shows less wear. Its just wrong that that bearing can and does slip on the shaft, so using the BOP shaft saver is a no brainer to fix this issue. I've never tried the BOP new style for worn shafts, myself I'd be fixing the shaft or getting a new shaft first, then using the shaft saver or wedge on it when new.

I seem remember back in the 90’s on my first Polaris sleds had a similar design on the bearing with the collar and set screws to grab the shaft seemed like a good setup. I guess they just cheapened things up to save money or maybe it was actually designed to move for chassis flex?

 

[Sidewindo]

Upon inspection there are no signs any wear from slippage. My plan is to press in a new bearing while it's out. Over 6k on this sled without tune or studs. This solution from hi-tech sounds durable
Thanks for all your input totallyamaha

 

[Turboflash]

I have the Barn of Parts drive shaft with the longer collar and set screws. Last year was not a good season to really test it - as it was way too short. But checking it this spring it did not move.

Check this product out. Its a guy in Nova Scotia that machined this solution: Hi Tech Mechanical & Coatings. It is a much more robust concept that supports the shaft with two outer bearings that can be greased. If I were to go back in time I likely would have gone in this direction.

In my opinion:
- tried using green loctite mating the shaft and bearing - that didnt work.
- purchased the wedge that fits into the inside of the shaft to expand it - that didnt work.
- I had the shaft spray welded (to build it up) and a pin put into the shaft and the bearing was notched - after two seasons the pin was sheared off - that didnt work.

My gut tells me that over time the set screws on the BOP bearing may not hold and it may spin. Perhaps the long collar will help prevent that. In any event the Hi Tech solution basically is the best way to support the shaft in a poorly engineered chassis. Its design concedes that the chassis flexes and that shaft will spin on the bearing. So it supports the bearing very robustly and greases it in the event it does spin. In this solution that shaft will never grind away and need replacing. With all the other fixes, soon as that shaft spins, it will keep spinning and need replacing.

If you dont agree with the theory - the chaincase side spins all the time, the only reason it doesnt destroy the shaft tolerance is because its bathed in oil.......... food for thought.
Good luck.
MS

If you had the shaft spray welded, why not just size it so the caliper bearing has to be pressed onto the shaft (ie about .001" press fit)? No need for a pin or whatever. Just press the bearing on shaft so it is attached to shaft and can't spin. That's what I had done about 5 years ago. Today, shaft and bearing are still like new. I've inspected/greased bearing every year. No spinning, no bearing wear. Permanent fix.

 

[Sevey]

I had read from a few guys years ago that did this; where they pressed the bearing onto the shaft similar to a current day Polaris.
Claimed it worked. I never had enough info to confidently move in that direction.
My first concern - if its really on there - you are gonna have to figure a way to get it off - with a puller. The Polaris is designed to easily pull the shaft out with the bearing on the end. Cant do that in a ProCross as the bearing is in the brake caliper (stating the obvious).
MS

 

[REDLINE 1]

I had read from a few guys years ago that did this; where they pressed the bearing onto the shaft similar to a current day Polaris.
Claimed it worked. I never had enough info to confidently move in that direction.
My first concern - if its really on there - you are gonna have to figure a way to get it off - with a puller. The Polaris is designed to easily pull the shaft out with the bearing on the end. Cant do that in a ProCross as the bearing is in the brake caliper (stating the obvious).
MS.

I had read from a few guys years ago that did this; where they pressed the bearing onto the shaft similar to a current day Polaris.
Claimed it worked. I never had enough info to confidently move in that direction.
My first concern - if its really on there - you are gonna have to figure a way to get it off - with a puller. The Polaris is designed to easily pull the shaft out with the bearing on the end. Cant do that in a ProCross as the bearing is in the brake caliper (stating the obvious).
MS

That would be my concern might be a bitch to get apart if it was pressed on