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Electric Visor issue?

Dr. FeeLGooD

VIP Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
964
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada eh
I have an electric visor wired directly to the battery with 5a fuse. My visor fogs up. 12.8v measured at battery, and plug in and end of cord that would plug in to visor. Measured voltage while revving up engine, came to just over 14v. Tried with my wifes cord and visor, same thing. I even tried a new cord wired to battery, no diff. She says hers works excellent on her Polaris. Yesterday it wasnt quite as cold, about -18c, and it would clear off if I flipped it up for a few minutes. Hard on the eyes at 120kph. It would soon fog up after I put it down. Any ideas? I guess I never checked voltage while the visor was plugged in, but then again the wiring is fused. I will check that too.
 

Voltage drop is 1v while sled was not running. I measured this right on the visor. This suggests to me the visor is drawing current, so it is infact "working" but is not clearing it off well enough. I guess my next step will be to try my visor on wifeys Poo. If it works there, which I am assuming it will, I will be really scratching my head. :dunno: Is 14v the proper voltage or should it be higher?
 
Get a new helmet with light up visor cord. when it's on led light is on which shows it's getting power.
 
I have had zero issues with my HJC Hellion e-shield fogging, and I have ridden in some fairly cold weather too.

I do wear a balaclava and I still have the factory breath deflector in place as well though.
 
Connection or wire might be broken inside the visor itself. I've had that happen on my Zox in the plug. Easy to tell since it has an LED to indicate power is getting there or not. Two screws, resolder the plug, that's it.

Can you see or access the wires inside or on the visor at all? Check voltage in the visor, not just the end of the wire. The voltages on your sled seem to be about right.
 
If you want to check continuity thru the plug and the visor, plug your cord into the visor, and using a meter on the ohms scale, put your test leads on the tip and sleeve on the other end of the test cord. If you have continuty, and you get a reading on the meter, that will tell you that all is good. If you do not get a reading, then it is probably the female plug that is the problem. If the nut comes loose on the plug, you will get intermitent power thru the viser, which will cause problems for you as well. Is the female plug on your viser loose ? If so, take the visor plug apart a tighten up the nut.
 
Check the plug on the helmet, probly a broken, wire had this happen to me twice.. If its broken resolder it..
 
#1APEXRIDER said:
If you want to check continuity thru the plug and the visor, plug your cord into the visor, and using a meter on the ohms scale, put your test leads on the tip and sleeve on the other end of the test cord. If you have continuty, and you get a reading on the meter, that will tell you that all is good. If you do not get a reading, then it is probably the female plug that is the problem. If the nut comes loose on the plug, you will get intermitent power thru the viser, which will cause problems for you as well. Is the female plug on your viser loose ? If so, take the visor plug apart a tighten up the nut.
Sounds like a good idea. I will try that. Thanks.
 
#1APEXRIDER said:
If you want to check continuity thru the plug and the visor, plug your cord into the visor, and using a meter on the ohms scale, put your test leads on the tip and sleeve on the other end of the test cord. If you have continuty, and you get a reading on the meter, that will tell you that all is good. If you do not get a reading, then it is probably the female plug that is the problem. If the nut comes loose on the plug, you will get intermitent power thru the viser, which will cause problems for you as well. Is the female plug on your viser loose ? If so, take the visor plug apart a tighten up the nut.

I don't think you will get full continuity through the circuit. The wires attach to the lens which has a conductive coating that has resistance so you should get around 20-30 ohms across the lens. Test for full continuity right to the rivets that hold the wires to the lens and then check the resistance between the mounting points. See the thread below.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
 
What do you mean by full continuity ? If it,s open, you will not get a reading on the ohms scale of your meter. It it has continuity, you will see a resistance reading.
 
Bad wording- you will get resistance through the lens (20-30 ohms) but the wiring up to that point should be no resistance. So if you want to check one thing at a time check the positive wire from connector to the rivet on the lens, and then the negative wire, and finally resistance across the lens. Then make sure you have power at the sled connector. I have also found that half the battle is getting your breath out of the helmet so a good nose cone is just as important to reduce fogging.
 
I bought a new HJC helmet and Visor. Didnt fix anything. Had a chat with a Yammie tech in the next town over. He claims Yamaha electric systems and electric add on's dont mix in demanding conditions. There just isnt enough output there. I concur. My Nytro is worse than my Viper was. I bought a No Fog balaclava and while not perfect, it is acceptable. May have to go with a Snow Cross helmet and goggles.
 


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