Electrical Accessories help please

wot-75

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IMG_20141223_202010196.jpg Ok gang, I got a little carried away with my desire to clean up the handlebars.

If you don't want to read all of this I'm really just after a wiring diagram for my 2014 Viper LTX. It's not in the service manual..

I am attempting to install the following RSI items:

Heated Throttle Block with integrated Kill Switch
o RSI claims the integrated kill switch will not work on the Viper and installing this kit requires the sled to be turned off via the ignition after install. No kill switch isn't a big deal to me on this sled.

Procross Control Relocation Kit
o moves grip/thumb warmer controls to the console via Symtec multi-level controller
o RSI Heated Grip and Thumb Warmer kit
0 New lower profile reverse button (Moved to left Handlebar)

RSI Bars
o Powermadd 6" Riser
o RSI Gel Tape grip wrap

Skinz Headlight Delete
o Rigid 10" Dual E2 Combo Light bar (main light) mounted on hood up near where stock lights would be
o Rigid 10" Single Amber bar (secondary light) Used when oncoming trail traffic is approaching and mounted on front bumber

Anyway, I started this about 4 weeks ago (to include a bunch of other bolt on stuff) and had to leave for 2 weeks to participate in some last minute Army training.. anyway, I'm back now and need some help figuring out/identifying what each wire coming out of the main harness is responsible for doing.... Can someone direct me to a wiring diagram? I got the Service Manual downloaded but I don't see anything about the harness in there.
I could go and buy another harness and reinstall the stock controls but I really don't want to do that since this will look so clean! Any help would be appreciated! I definitely should have taken better notes during the disassembly of the harness.. lesson learned!
 
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more pics
 

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I have not seen one either. Look at this as opportunity to clean up stock harness. Remove entire harness from sled labeling all you can,grab a pencil,paper and ohm meter and start testing wires. I will look for a diagram.
 
Any luck finding a diagram? I can't get the sled to power on with the ignition now since installing the RSI heated throttle block.... wondering if removing the kill switch and wiring it to the RSI throttle block with kill switch is causing this. RSI told me that I would lose kill switch capability with their kit (affects Viper and Cat 7000) for some reason. I'll try disconnecting completely to see if that works.. maybe the 2 wires need to be wired together? I guess we'll see. None of the fuses are blown in the fuse block.. wonder if a relay or the ignition switch itself is bad now.. Hate electrical problems lol
 
Thanks a lot!

Much love!! lol
 

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Also, with the sub harness unplugged or plugged in I get no power when I turn the ignition to on. The Gauge doesn't light up, nothing happens... no fuel pump kicking on, absolutely nothing happens.

All of the fuses are good but I wonder if a relay is bad or the ignition switch itself went bad.

Battery is fully charged.

Probably something simple.


Frustrated! lol

Thoughts?
 
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get .pdf file in post below
 
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Can you please let me know where you're getting these? I'd like to get a more readable version of your most recent image.. I zoom but it's pretty unreadable.

I wonder if an emailed version would allow me to view it in full resolution?

Again, thank you so much for posting!
 
The Red/Grn "Voltage Key" that goes to the kill switch... what's that? Is that something that would keep the sled's electrical (i.e. Guages/fuel pump/etc) from powering on when the key is turned to the on position if unplugged or disconnected? By being disconnected right now does the ECU think the Kill switch has been triggered? I can't remember from last year.. does the gauge power up with the kill switch engaged or does it allow the engine to turn over without spark? or ?
 
You need to tie red/vlt to red/grn. That will provide power to the key switch and allow the sled to power up and start when the key is turned.

Most snowmobiles kill switches simply ground out the ignition coil which shuts them down. This means that pushing the kill switch is like turning on the switch on a wall. You complete the circuit, and it dead shorts the ignition. This causes the electricity that usually goes to the spark plugs to just short to the chassis and it kills the engine. That is why you can usually just unplug the kill switch and the sled will fire.

Our sleds are the opposite. Pushing the kill switch opens the circuit which kills power to the key and turns off the sled. Leaving these wires unplugged won't allow anything to happen because there will be no power to the key.

This is the reason the kill switch on the RSI block won't work for our sleds. You would have to keep holding in on the kill switch to keep the sled running since it is a momentary button (like your car horn) and not a latching button (like a wall switch). If it was a latching button then pushing it in would allow the engine to run and pulling it out would turn it off (opposite of most sleds).

That's the clearest explanation I can give without giving you a 2 hour hands on class on electrical circuits. :D
 
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Makes perfect sense!

I'm going to install an Arctic Cat tether to manage kill switch duties.

Thanks for the help everyone... Very much appreciated!
 
You need to tie red/vlt to red/grn. That will provide power to the key switch and allow the sled to power up and start when the key is turned.

:D

you probably meant to say to provide power "from" the key switch and not "to" the switch

tying the red/vlt and red/grn does not provide power to the key switch

the key switch is powered by a red/wht wire (batt +) from the fuse block

when the key is turned the red/wht and a red/vlt wire are connected and the batt+ power flows to the e-stop and RPS switches

the e-stop has the red/grn wire you are talking about

if the e-stop switch is closed (or tie the red/vlt and red/grn wires) batt+ power flows on the red/grn wire to various components ie tail light-head light-fuel pump relays and to the ECU.
 
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you probably meant to say to provide power "from" the key switch and not "to" the switch

tying the red/vlt and red/grn does not provide power to the key switch

the key switch is powered by a red/wht wire (batt +) from the fuse block

when the key is turned the red/wht and a red/vlt wire are connected and the batt+ power flows to the e-stop and RPS switches

the e-stop has the red/grn wire you are talking about

if the e-stop switch is closed (or tie the red/vlt and red/grn wires) batt+ power flows on the red/grn wire to various components ie tail light-head light-fuel pump relays and to the ECU.

Close enough. I don't have the full wiring diagram, just the pinout above. Either way, tie the two wires together and it will work.
 


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