• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Electrical help needed.

New Battery in and fully charged

New battery fully charged to 13.2VDC. 12.7VDC when running. stator and pickup check out fine. Good continuity from the VRR to the battery leads. main fuse is good. If i hook the VRR to a spare battery(12VDC so it was not fully charged) it will bring the spare battery up to 13.6VDC, and it appears to charge it very slowly. It would appear to me that this second VRR is not very good. If I put a DC current guage on the Positive battery lead, it shows that my system is drawing approx. 5 amps at an idle and up to approx 10Amps at 5000 rpm. I can remove all fuses except the ignition fuse (so that it stays running) and there is basically no change on the DC voltage. Anyone know what the diode tests should read. I get OL, OL, 5V and .15V. All test come in sets of three and they are all consistant. The second VRR gets OL, OL, 5V, .185V. How about some alternate way to prove the stator??? VAC goes from ~20-80 idle-reved up. resistance .2 across all three.

Wes
 

Was that second Voltage Regulator (VR) new or used?

Did you have all circuits fixed before you put in the second voltage regulator?

You are getting good AC off the Stator. You are not getting 13 VDC at the battery when charging a fully charged battery. You have a good connection to the Voltage Regulator.

I too suspect the Voltage Regulator. But if that was a new one and you had all the circuits fixed prior to installation, it does not seem likely.

But you definitely are not getting a charge. Should see at least 13VDC at the battery More like 13.5+ would be typical.

Hey, at this point I would want to be ridin’. I would take to a dealer that had a good electrician, unless that VR was not new or could have been challenged by putting it in before the fixes were made. Then I would try a new VR.
 
All circuits were fixed.

Ya, I went through and repaired anything that I could see being a problem before I installed the second VR. It was a used one that I purchased. I will order a new one and try it. Any cheaper sources that are just as good or better than the shindengen unit?

Wes
 
Just waiting to pick up a new R/R

Overspemt olittle so Im just waiting till Payday to order a new R/R. Will update asap.
Anyone know what voltage the diode tests should show? I get ~.5V one way and ~.18V the other. With the two remaining as zero's(so its not going back). I have read that these should both be .3-.8V.... Anyone confirm this?


Wes
 
You are a bit beyond me on the Diodes. I have never had good luck measuring the things in a circuit. Out of a circuit, I can deal with them. Maybe that's why I only got a "B" in the Solid State Devices class I took? I am an old electrical/mechanical guy. Maybe the guys at the local shop would be willing to test a good one and tell you what the readings are?
 
update

New voltage reg seems to be working. After starting it takes abit to get it up to 13.9V though. Thinking maybe the stator/rotor are abit weak.

Wes
 
There is very little power that is not committed to running the sled. This is why you can not install a new battery that is not fully charged. Stator is probably just fine.
 
Just so for you to know.....
I have a system voltage meter on my dash since 06. The regulated no problem running voltage is 13.9 with a 1/10 up or down once in a while. So your fine....
 
Very late update.

Changed stator and its all good. Voltage snaps right up to 14 immediately after starting, its does not even need to be reved up! Old stator must have been weak but not ruined. Starts great and runs much better without the low voltage issues. Thanks LenT and everyone for the help. Beers for ya if you drive through here.

Wes
 
Good to know you got it chased down. May just stop by on our way to Alaska this summer.

From you previous Stator Testing: It looks like we all assumed the stator was O.K. based on one set of readings. I did not find any readings on the second coil, the Pick-up coil. Was that where you found the problem?
 
Pick up coil

No, the pick up coil checked out ok as well. I pulled it apart for a visual and found the problem. One lug was burnt looking and the resin was melted away from the wiring. The only indication from the resistance test was the one phase reading .3 ohms while the other two were .2 ohms. The sled would even run without the battery connected so the stator was still making some power.

Wes

ps- pm me when you head through and we'll grab some grub/beers :Rockon:
 


Back
Top