Exhaust Donut Replacement Procedure

[thor452]

I would pull the skid you are going to want to inspect everything there too. season is too short to have a preventive failure. really not that hard to get back in. we are all here to help with it too. lots of time before season starts. You should be able to do it with skid installed if you should so choose. you need to be able to reach the brackets up in the tunnel. reach up in there and see if you can reach to do this you would need a second person to work the rivet gun.

 

[Roger]

I've fixed my RS Venture GT for the last time, I put in those new flex pipes, and won't buy another Yamaha with this PIS set up. Who designed this anyway? Yamaha daycare?

 

[AndyApexLTX]

So, if the clamps can't be rotated, everything seems tight, then the exhaust gaskets are likely still good? (2013 Vector LTX (17500KM (10,800 miles). Not so much room when you have the power steering unit in the way.
Pulled it apart to inspect, as I sold the sled to my nephew. However, trying to get the clamp bolts free is already proving a challenge (COVID lock down makes ordering the MAP torch very slow).
Yes, I'm already here, but the next steps are where things break or get stripped. Working around the power steering unit has already been enough "fun".

 

[maim]

So, if the clamps can't be rotated, everything seems tight, then the exhaust gaskets are likely still good? (2013 Vector LTX (17500KM (10,800 miles). Not so much room when you have the power steering unit in the way.
Pulled it apart to inspect, as I sold the sled to my nephew. However, trying to get the clamp bolts free is already proving a challenge (COVID lock down makes ordering the MAP torch very slow).
Yes, I'm already here, but the next steps are where things break or get stripped. Working around the power steering unit has already been enough "fun".

have they ever been done before? right around that milage is when i had to do them on my 11 apex xtx and they fell apart when i pulled the clamps off. i had an oxy acetaline torch with a brazing tip already but have used this torch kit

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mag-torch-oxy-map-torch-kit-0587579p.html#srp

to heat and remove stubborn bolts before i got my current torch set up. had to cut a bearing off using it on another sled. its only issue is the o2 cyls are usually only good for one job on average.

 

[AndyApexLTX]

have they ever been done before? right around that milage is when i had to do them on my 11 apex xtx and they fell apart when i pulled the clamps off. i had an oxy acetaline torch with a brazing tip already but have used this torch kit

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mag-torch-oxy-map-torch-kit-0587579p.html#srp

to heat and remove stubborn bolts before i got my current torch set up. had to cut a bearing off using it on another sled. its only issue is the o2 cyls are usually only good for one job on average.

Would be first time if they need replacement. I'm a touring rider, so I'm not expecting them them to be broken, unless this is just their end of life thru wear. I sprayed the clamp bolts last night, and may see about trying to undo 1 tonight.

 

[AndyApexLTX]

This 2013 Vector LTX has 17500Km on it (10,800 miles) (Touring), and it appears to me that the donuts were still good, will know once the new ones come in. Ordered new clamp bolts (had to put a propane torch to them to get them to break free (which technically anneals them and removes any hardening), and ordered new shield bolts as 1 from the tunnel rounded on removal. I'll be trying to compress the bellows method to install the new gaskets.
Part II
New donuts came in, and looks like I could have easily gone a few more seasons on the old original donuts. Replaced the clamp bolts, as I had to heat them to remove. Had to drill out the rivets to pull back the exhaust to get the new donuts on (one of which wasn't perfectly round).
Not a "simple" job.

 

[YamahaHoss]

The front hanger is bolted to a support riveted to the tunnel. unfortunately when the bolts under the plugs are removed the support prevents the exhaust from sliding back out of the way. Some have drilled out the rivets and dropped the support but I never needed to go that far. Unbolting the exhaust bolts and using channel lock pliers to compress the flex pipe gives just enough space to get the donuts in and out. I've done a few of these on both Vectors and Nytros and this procedure works for me.

once they are compressed though--dont they crack while doing the compression? also they don't just spring back correct--so do you stretch them back out some way to fit again? Sorry I know it is a dumb question..but they seem so frail tonight and in bold print you note --better to just remove the flex pipe to check for cracks (wondering how do you just remove the flex pipe then?? (unbolt from the block? )

 

[grizztracks]

If you're worried about cracking the flex tubes then drill out the exhaust hanger bolts so the y-pipe can be slid back. Removing the flex pipes from the head can be risky because there's always a chance of breaking or rounding off the head of the bolts.

 

[YamahaHoss]

If you're worried about cracking the flex tubes then drill out the exhaust hanger bolts so the y-pipe can be slid back. Removing the flex pipes from the head can be risky because there's always a chance of breaking or rounding off the head of the bolts.

Yes, those header bolts have been heated so much and look old.. plus I would need to then get new exhaust gaskets. . When drilling those two hanger bolts out... a little confused.... I do not see easy outs or Left Handed drill bits working to get those out and those the bolt left over will be stuck in there? Experience tells me that could easily happen.... now I have a really really bad mess dont I? Ideas? Also Sir, you had mentioned in an old post that you could drill out the 4 pop rivets that hold that plate in place... then slide the hole piece back.. then when all done with the job, just pop rivet it back into position... would that work? Sorry, but so far everything has been stuck in like ticks on a hog, and I have had to even drill out the simple black panel bolts and even a gas tank bolt that should have been a breeze... Thanks for all your help.. Terry

 

[super1c]

Not sure if mentioned yet didnt want to go through 7 pages. Just did the fx garage works kit on 09 nytro, WOW is this a nice quality piece. Problem with doing just exhaust donuts with the age on the flex pipes is if not already the flex pipes will soon crack and whole job was meaningless. Do it once and never think about it again, kit comes with new header flange all the way to pipe. Includes new clamps. Just need new header bolts. We just took sled to machine show to have header studs removed, took him 10 min to do with proper tools as they were old, soft, and we were just gonna "f" them up. https://www.fxgarageworks.com/

 

[super1c]

also just drill out exhaust bracket to remove pipe. The kit even includes new rivits to put bracket back on!

 

[Phazed Out]

Not sure if mentioned yet didnt want to go through 7 pages. Just did the fx garage works kit on 09 nytro, WOW is this a nice quality piece. Problem with doing just exhaust donuts with the age on the flex pipes is if not already the flex pipes will soon crack and whole job was meaningless. Do it once and never think about it again, kit comes with new header flange all the way to pipe. Includes new clamps. Just need new header bolts. We just took sled to machine show to have header studs removed, took him 10 min to do with proper tools as they were old, soft, and we were just gonna "f" them up. https://www.fxgarageworks.com/

Did you experience any leaks with the FX Garageworks kit? I did hear of some people having trouble sealing them up, but that was a few years back, and i'm sure improvements were made since then. How was the ease of installing? I have a broken flex pipe and most donuts are shot on my 4 cylinder, so I'm looking for a permanant fix as well.

 

[super1c]

Did you experience any leaks with the FX Garageworks kit? I did hear of some people having trouble sealing them up, but that was a few years back, and i'm sure improvements were made since then. How was the ease of installing? I have a broken flex pipe and most donuts are shot on my 4 cylinder, so I'm looking for a permanant fix as well.

Install was straight forward just a lot of disassembly. Take pics. No leaks that we Could see and ran very quiet after. Hardest part was exhaust header bolts and we had a machine shop get them out. The kit was top notch with good directions.

 

[Phazed Out]

Install was straight forward just a lot of disassembly. Take pics. No leaks that we Could see and ran very quiet after. Hardest part was exhaust header bolts and we had a machine shop get them out. The kit was top notch with good directions.

Thanks for the info, I haven’t taken the whole exhaust pipe assembly out yet, but the header pipe bolts came out okay

 

[SumpBuster]

Yes, those header bolts have been heated so much and look old.. plus I would need to then get new exhaust gaskets. . When drilling those two hanger bolts out... a little confused.... I do not see easy outs or Left Handed drill bits working to get those out and those the bolt left over will be stuck in there? Experience tells me that could easily happen.... now I have a really really bad mess dont I? Ideas? Also Sir, you had mentioned in an old post that you could drill out the 4 pop rivets that hold that plate in place... then slide the hole piece back.. then when all done with the job, just pop rivet it back into position... would that work? Sorry, but so far everything has been stuck in like ticks on a hog, and I have had to even drill out the simple black panel bolts and even a gas tank bolt that should have been a breeze... Thanks for all your help.. Terry

The apex I worked on yesterday, had the clutch side flex pipe broken, and the guy broke the m8 x 1.25 flange bolt. Had to use an angle drill, but could not get what was left of the original bolt out, using ez outs and those left hand threaded screw extractors...had so much torque I broke off the drive but not the extractor.
Possibly was cross threaded when the previous owner had it. In any case, the original m8 has a major diameter around .306 and a minor diameter around .260 (from memory, may not be exact). Anyway, drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 and torqued the flange up tight. Used a grade 8 bolt. Logic was, if the threads were crossed, we couldnt use them anyway, so would have to go bigger, either an insert or helicoil, or 5/16 - 18. Not sure how much stock is there so went with the 1/4-20..can always go bigger if theres a problem, but I doubt it...its in there tight! In a way, the m8 bolt is acting like a helicoil.
But what a pain in the arse!!