Exhaust Donut Replacement Procedure

[radianguy]

I just replaced the exhaust gaskets yesterday on my 2008 Vector, much more difficult than my 09 nytro was!

6000 km and they were still in perfect shape, replaced them with copper gaskets from sled toyz so hopefully shouldn't have to go back in there again.

Was talking to a friend afterwards, he said to remove rear bolt through motor and motor rotates ahead, no need to dismantle anything after seat and tank. Wish I had of known about this before. What a PITA!!!

 

[Elypsis]

What would be the symptoms to watch (or listen) for that would indicate it's time to do these? A rattling in the rear, perhaps? I'm thinking that this could be a holiday shed sled project while we wait for snow.

 

[radianguy]

Yeah you should hear some rattling or exhaust noise. My vector didn't have any noise, I just changed them because I was half way there doing the WRP seat.

With the nytro I heard rattling noise, the clamps were loose, gaskets were still good though. I replaced them just because I had it all apart.

Quick test, with sled warmed up, cover exhaust outlets see if sled idles down...if so you're good, if it doesn't you have leaks!(bad gaskets)

 

[nickleuci]

"Dealer wants $14. each for stock doughnuts. FYI for $4. each you can get View attachment 102718View attachment 102719View attachment 102720 Felpro Exhaust Pipe Flange/ring for a 1954-1979 VW, part number 22571 that fits perfect. I know a lot of guys says to use copper ones, but those are pricey. "

Found this on another thread....These Felpro gaskets work great I found them for $2 each online at autozone. Fit perfect.

 

[ontariosledder]

just did my 06 venture, one was totally missing the others half gone. went well. used the new copper rings. paid to much for my parts at the local dealer but needed them asap. only thing that slowed me down was cutting the old clamps off with a dremmil tool. nice and quiet no rattling.

 

[CaptCaper]

I'm doing the wifes 2010 RS Vector LTX. I did my Attak's 4 different times. My hanger bolts came off ok..the donut clamp hex bolts started stripping. I used a map/oyx combo from Home Depot to get the bolt cherry red and a vise grip on the head and they loosened fine.
I am at the point were I tried to use the Channel Lock to compress the flex pipe but there isn't enough room to get the copper donut in. I have the silencer and y pipe still connected and pulled back as far as I can get it too. I tried to get the flex pipe off the head but the bottom bolt is a challenge. I don't seem to have a good wrench or socket to get in there. I figured I could of taken them off.
So I now have to drill the rivets? If I remember on my Attak I had to remove the flex pipes to be able to slide the ypipes ahead to get off the bracket. So unless I can find a way to loosen the bottom bolt on the flex pipe I have to remove the rivets. Right?

 

[grizztracks]

If you can't get the flex tubes back or out of the way you can drill the hanger bracket or pull the rear engine mount bolt and rock the engine up to get clearance.

 

[CaptCaper]

I got a small wrench on the lower head bolt. Then took a long dowel and gave it a wack to free it up. I cut away a strip of insulation under the bolt so a small 1/4 in socket will fit for installing. The flex pipes came right out fine. Is it safe to use the same head gasket again? I thought I read you could.
Again before anyone trys to free up those clamp bolts they should heat them cherry red. And also the hanger bolts before trying. That kit from Home Depot with the Mapp gas and Oyx gas is great for that. It can give a small hot flame to surgically hit the bolt or nut.

UDATE.
In putting the flex pipe back on etc. the silencer disconnected from the ypipe. The y pipe seemed to go back further this was so using the channel lock method of inserting the donuts might work on these Vectors. To get the silencer hooked up again I lubed the inside of the gasket with grease and dropped the upper wheels so I could see the line up. Easy enough. Wish I tried that at the beginning.

 

[YAMMY]

"Dealer wants $14. each for stock doughnuts. FYI for $4. each you can get View attachment 102718View attachment 102719View attachment 102720 Felpro Exhaust Pipe Flange/ring for a 1954-1979 VW, part number 22571 that fits perfect. I know a lot of guys says to use copper ones, but those are pricey. "

Found this on another thread....These Felpro gaskets work great I found them for $2 each online at autozone. Fit perfect.

yep I got mine at autozone 2 bucks apiece ...cant beat that!

 

[CaptCaper]

Yeah you should hear some rattling or exhaust noise. My vector didn't have any noise, I just changed them because I was half way there doing the WRP seat.

With the nytro I heard rattling noise, the clamps were loose, gaskets were still good though. I replaced them just because I had it all apart.

Quick test, with sled warmed up, cover exhaust outlets see if sled idles down...if so you're good, if it doesn't you have leaks!(bad gaskets)

My 2010 Vector had a very slight noise. Hard to tell. And when warm you couldn't hear it I swear. If we hadn't of owned it since new and now have 7750 miles on it who would know. I found one clamp loose with the gasket getting weak for sure. They must be updated gaskets as they were soft and rubber type with a mesh inside. My OEM Attaks had a different type of material.

 

[Andrew Boyd]

I have a rattle on my 2010 vector ltx 6600 miles. I was hoping it was a loose heat shield, but I doubt it. The rattle starts after running for about 1 to 2 minutes. Sounds like its under or just in front of gas tank. I have three replacement donuts ready to go in this weekend. Any additional advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks for the detailed posts everyone.

 

[nickleuci]

I have a rattle on my 2010 vector ltx 6600 miles. I was hoping it was a loose heat shield, but I doubt it. The rattle starts after running for about 1 to 2 minutes. Sounds like its under or just in front of gas tank. I have three replacement donuts ready to go in this weekend. Any additional advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks for the detailed posts everyone.

Practice your swear words, you'll need them [emoji12]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[4strokeluvr111]

I have a rattle on my 2010 vector ltx 6600 miles. I was hoping it was a loose heat shield, but I doubt it. The rattle starts after running for about 1 to 2 minutes. Sounds like its under or just in front of gas tank. I have three replacement donuts ready to go in this weekend. Any additional advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks for the detailed posts everyone.

Most any challenge you're going to run into can be found in this thread.

 

[BryKlu]

This procedure explains how to replace exhaust donuts in a 2006 RS Vector.

1) Seat Removal:

--remove rear exhaust trim in order to access the 2 seat J-bolts.
--remove the 2 J-bolt nuts then lift rear of seat.
--disconnect the tail light plug (front RH side of the seat).
--remove seat and set it to the side.

2) Tank Removal:

--disconnect the two fuel lines on the front RH side of the tank. Gas will drain from the lower delivery line so either drain the tank first or use a short piece of 1/4" fuel line to jump between the upper and lower tank nipple.
--disconnect the fuel sensor plug on the front LH side of tank
--remove handle bar pad then unbolt the 4 handle bars bolts (12mm socket).
--remove gas cap and black rubber fill neck ring
--remove the 2 knee panel bolts (phillips head) and the 2 nuts at the rear tank mounts (12mm socket).
--lift the plastic tank cover up over the fill and swing it and the handle bars around to the front.
--disconnect the vent tube located in front of the gas fill.
--replace the gas cap then lift the rear of the tank over the mounting studs and slide it back. Remove the tank and place it to the side.

3) Exhaust Repositioning:

--unbolt the 4 muffler bolts (12mm socket) and the 2 front muffler cover bolts (10mm socket)
-- remove the black rubber tunnel plugs to expose the 2 front exhaust hanger bolts. Remove the bolts with a 6mm allen socket. (clear any debre out of the cap so that the socket fits securely. If the bolts will not turn tapping on the socket with a hammer or using a hand held screw impact driver may loosen them.
-- remove the 4 exhaust manifold cover screws (10mm socket) to expose the 3 donut clamps.
-- with a 6mm allen sock remove the v-clamp bolts. The clamps are normally loose enough to rotate them up so that they can be sprayed with penetrating oil before removal.
-- with the clamps removed slide the muffler back. It doesn't move far and will not give enough clearance to replace the donuts so a large pair of channel locks pliers will be needed to compress the flex pipe. With the flex pipe compressed there should be just enough room to get the new donuts in but be careful not to damage the pipe or new donuts.

Note: Removing the flex pipes may be a more desirable method to gain access to the donuts. It also allows for thorough inspection of the pipes for cracks.

4) Optional Clamp Modification:

--use a grinder to remove a couple millimeters of the clamp spacers. this will allow the clamp to be pulled tighter on the flange and should extend the life of the seals.

Do you know if the fuel line is 1/4 inner or outer diameter? Thank you!

 

[CaptCaper]

Do you know if the fuel line is 1/4 inner or outer diameter? Thank you!

It must be inner.. the outer seems more like 3/8 7/16 to me.