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Exhaust Donuts & Y Pipes....Step by step

Alignment is key, the ends of the pipe can snag the mesh and they can distort/fold over easily. I always polished the y-pipes with emery cloth, then greased both pipes and mesh gaskets and usually had success.
The pipes are a tight fit because the muffler inlet side is segmented to allow the clamps to compress the mesh gaskets over the pipes and the mesh doesn't relax after the pipes are separated from the muffler inlet.
When installing new gaskets, I have used a tail pipe expander or similar mandrel to open up the segmented muffler inlet tubes which makes the job much easier.

Ok thanks, I'll keep at 'er
 

During y pipe replacement, Anyone have tips for getting the 2 Y pipes into the muffler side? Trying a test fit before putting back in the sled but extremely tight, and can only get the pipes slid in about 1 inch each.

The 2 mesh gaskets are still in on the muffler side. Not sure if it's better to remove those and attempt to install on the ypipes first?
I used my Dremel with a sanding drum and gradually worked them until a nice fit, and then high temp permatex, and it's never been so quiet. Had to winch and beat the crap out of the muffler to get them off...no reason they should ever be that tight.
 
additional question - I think i'd rather use bots/nuts to secure the ypipe bracket instead of rivets. Question though, my local store doesnt have any steel lock nuts. Only the ones with nylon which I doubt would work. Would simple lock washers do the trick if I did say 6 bolts, nuts w/lock washers to hold the bracket to the tunnel? Should I also use some high temp loctite? I priced out stainless rivets, but i need to wait a few days to get them and the cost is 30 bucks for a pack of 50 (smallest amount I could get) ....and only need 10. Thoughts?
 
I used "structural" aluminum rivets to secure my bracket back in place. Fastenal is your friend for specialty fasteners and such, where I buy at a local franchise they don't make you buy a crapper load at once.
I also believe once you've changed out the allen pan-head bolts on the y-pipe mount locations and use a flanged hex head bolt, you likely will never have to remove that bracket again.
If you prefer to go the nut/bolt route on the bracket, then I wouldn't be afraid to use the nylock style nut because I don't think that area will see the extreme heat sufficient to melt the nylon. Pretty sure you would have the room for the nuts on the tunnel side if you want to be sure they are protected.
If you need to use ordinary lock washers, I would make sure they are used up against the stainless steel bracket side (inside tunnel) vs the aluminum tunnel side because the aluminum tunnel is quite thin and could be prone to the washer digging in and tearing out the aluminum.
Don't believe loctite is required in this application.
Cheers
 
I just did another Attak exhaust job last week. I had a flex pipe brake/crack in the flex joint area. I just had done donuts,etc about 1000 miles ago so I used all of the old gaskets. I left the skid in by the front bolt only. When reinstalling the muffler to the ypipes I applied oil to both after cleaning them.. as well. Used a round tool and very carefully made sure the mesh gasket was free of damage and back into shape to accept the pipes.. that gasket is easy to work out..back to shape at the opening...with some gentle giggleing,etc they went in fine.. gentle line up and wiggleing into place is key as not to damage the mesh gasket going in.
 
Does this plastic and hardware removal apply the same procedure to a 2010 RS Vector LtX GT? I believe I have exhaust donut issue the machine is louder than usual and it is quite annoying now to operate. Also I'm very new to yamaha I think the starter relay switch is going soon because sometimes the machine will not feel the key at all but after a few minutes later it eventually starts up easy so any ideas would be great.
 
Does this plastic and hardware removal apply the same procedure to a 2010 RS Vector LtX GT? I believe I have exhaust donut issue the machine is louder than usual and it is quite annoying now to operate. Also I'm very new to yamaha I think the starter relay switch is going soon because sometimes the machine will not feel the key at all but after a few minutes later it eventually starts up easy so any ideas would be great.
Not sure about your year, but some of it I just moved out of the way on my 06...since you are working well under the plastic...stare at it for a while...I bungeed stuff out if the way ..lol...
unfortunately EVERY time it sounded a little off....yup....donuts, or related. However, the last time was a cracked titanium pipe...
 
No more donuts for me ! I just ended up doing the F/X Garage Works Exhaust Mod ! Simple much better design ! Well built . Not sure if I can mention it here ?? But all Apex , and 3 cyl engines should do this .
 
So pulled sleds from trailer to get going on getting them ready for the season (yes late start but life pretty busy). The 11 XTX was quick and easy, changed oil and filter and greased her up including driveshaft/jackshaft bearings and now good to go.
My 09 oil change went well and replaced the battery with a larger one, then moved onto the noisy exhaust doughnuts.
Got it apart and there is a hole in the left pipe right behind the flange :o| Well looks like looking thru this thread the stainless replacement pipes when released years ago were reasonable, not so anymore. Best deal I can find now is 200.00 on ebay from Port. Right side is good, little wear from the clamp that was spinning but thinking I can reuse for now.
Few years ago I was in the process of changing the doughnuts with copper ones on my 03 RX1 when it was stolen with my trailer while waiting on a header that was cracked.
I have the complete exhaust along with the unused copper doughnuts. I am using those new never used copper doughnuts on my 09, too bad the y-pipes wont work on my 09:(
 
So pulled sleds from trailer to get going on getting them ready for the season (yes late start but life pretty busy). The 11 XTX was quick and easy, changed oil and filter and greased her up including driveshaft/jackshaft bearings and now good to go.
My 09 oil change went well and replaced the battery with a larger one, then moved onto the noisy exhaust doughnuts.
Got it apart and there is a hole in the left pipe right behind the flange :o| Well looks like looking thru this thread the stainless replacement pipes when released years ago were reasonable, not so anymore. Best deal I can find now is 200.00 on ebay from Port. Right side is good, little wear from the clamp that was spinning but thinking I can reuse for now.
Few years ago I was in the process of changing the doughnuts with copper ones on my 03 RX1 when it was stolen with my trailer while waiting on a header that was cracked.
I have the complete exhaust along with the unused copper doughnuts. I am using those new never used copper doughnuts on my 09, too bad the y-pipes wont work on my 09:(
I replaced my 2 OEM headers with MBRP ones. They were alot cheaper than the oem stainless at the time.
Travis at Barn of Parts may have some OEM'S or something that you can use.
 
Found a used left y-pipe on eBay, placed a bid and will no later tonight if i get it or I will be calling Travis in the morning. If he does not have one I will pick up the one from Port off of their eBay store.
 
Found a used left y-pipe on eBay, placed a bid and will no later tonight if i get it or I will be calling Travis in the morning. If he does not have one I will pick up the one from Port off of their eBay store.
I think Excell made pipes too? Their stuff is very good.
 


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