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Exhaust Heat Shielding Destroyed

mdkuni

TY 4 Stroke Guru
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Messages
996
Location
Houghton Lake, MI
My heat shielding that is on the cover directly below the flex pipes is all but gone. The cover is fairly expensive and a pain in the butt to replace with all of the rivets. Is there something I could replace the material with?
 

I'm going to be removing my entire exhaust system this weekend. I'll take a closer look at what you are asking and I can maybe fab something up for you. I have plenty of material around here to build a tank. lol

If I can come up with something, you can have it! Can you shoot a picture of the damage? Do you know what caused the damage? Might have to change something so it will not happen again.
 
My guess would be the donuts failed causing the hot gases to escape and burn up the heat resistant material. Or are you talking about metal damage from some type of contact?
 
Here is the picture. I really do not want to replace the part, thanks for the offer though. Two of the rivets are tucked under the engine. I am not removing the engine for this little piece! There is no other way to drill and rivet the plate. One of the rivets is loose to, so i think I will just JB Weld it.

1CrazySledder I would appreciate anything you could come up with. ;)! I would be more then willing to send some money your way.

My exhaust has been replaced four times so that area has seen a lot of work and leaks, so that is how it must have happened.

I am going to install bender's donuts and see if they last a little better.
 

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Is that an aspestos type material that has burnt off? It looks like the same type of material ski doo used under the clam shells on the two stroke exhaust. I replaced it on my past ski doo's and it was fairly inexpensive. I haven't looked at mine yet so I am only guessing on the material description from what I see in your photo.
 
Ouch! I'll be in the shop later tonight and over the next few days. I'll get a good look at mine and see what I can come up with. May even replace mine before anything happens...lol I'm going back to a stock exhaust.
 
You will loose that insulation from water coming in through the tunnel + salt. Also, it could be coupled with any exhaust gas that was leaking through the flex pipes.

Any heat tape will do the trick, just remove the old stuff and make sure there is a clean mounting surface if using adhesive type.
 
Not sure on your mileage, but that many issues with the exhaust is a problem. Have you looked at the bulkhead to tunnel connection. My thought is that maybe you have increased flex or movement between them, causing the increased wear. If nothing else you may want to get the tunnel plates, may help reduce the bouncing effect of the heavy muffler. Just a thought.
 
LJ 452 said:
Not sure on your mileage, but that many issues with the exhaust is a problem. Have you looked at the bulkhead to tunnel connection. My thought is that maybe you have increased flex or movement between them, causing the increased wear. If nothing else you may want to get the tunnel plates, may help reduce the bouncing effect of the heavy muffler. Just a thought.

14,000 miles, and it is simply a design flaw in my opinion. They failed at approx. 5, 9, 11, (thousand) and now I am doing donuts for good measure before the season in hopes of avoiding early failure. The donuts were still there and in decent shape.

What tunnel plates are you talking about?


rosco said:
Is that an aspestos type material that has burnt off?

Yes that is the type of material.


Yamahammer485 said:
Any heat tape will do the trick, just remove the old stuff and make sure there is a clean mounting surface if using adhesive type.

Do you think heat tape is sufficient? The previous material is thicker, maybe 1/4" and feels like insulation.
 
Oops, I cant get to your link.

But anyways, by heat tape I meant header wrap. Its a fiberglass tape, and you can get in 1-2" wide bands in either black or beige. Anyways, used this on my ATV head pipe and it survived very well for 9000kms through horrbile conditions. Essentially, its very durable. The stuff I got was made by DEI and picked it up at a local speed shop for like $30

What you could do is take the tape, and just either stick it to the base aluminum or rivet it or clamp it. Personally I would cut strips and double or triple up on thickness for the width of the sheild, and drill holes through the aluminum, then rivet with large washers to secure the tape for good. I hope that didnt sound complicated, it sounded easier in my head...
 
You should be able to just enter your zip code at the link to show the product.

I looked at the auto store yesterday and they did have header wrap. It was about $30 and I was hoping for something cheaper. It will be hard to rivet anything to that plate. There is not much room to work with becasue of the engine and frame. I wonder if the wrap has adhesive, would that be enough? I may just go that route.
 


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