Tridav3
Veteran
I read somewhere on here that you can put expanding foam into your bars, I would like to try that.
Could someone tell me what brand and how exactly they did it please?
Also if it even warms the bars up enough for you to feel it.
Could someone tell me what brand and how exactly they did it please?
Also if it even warms the bars up enough for you to feel it.
Kraze3
Veteran
Works how and for what? Just use low expanding foam.
Tridav3
Veteran
I mean works to make the hand warmers somewhat hot. I live in Yellowknife, its usually -30 here so my hand warmers aren't doing their job
Kraze3
Veteran
bump
msg
Veteran
Tridav3 said:I mean works to make the hand warmers somewhat hot. I live in Yellowknife, its usually -30 here so my hand warmers aren't doing their job
Wow... That last reply was an AZZ.
Anyway, I just did mine tonight and it was very easy. The product I used was "Great Stuff", which is very common in most hardware stores. I got mine from Home Depot. Start as deep as you can and work your way back out to the end. The hole in the J-Bar is the perfect size for the straw. This stuff will keep expanding... so I put some cloths on the cowling and left it alone until it dried. I clean up the access with utility blade, and then cleaned up the end with Goo Gone.
Mission accomplished my man. I'll be riding in -15 to -20 F tomorrow and will let you know how it worked out.
FYI: This "trick" has been posted on other sled sites with great review. My past Doo's all had hand warmer’s that actually worked... So this is new to me.
Tridav3
Veteran
Thanks a lot msg, I'm looking forward to what you have to say about the foam trick.
Prarie Dawg
Extreme
I foamed my bars. Doesn't seem to help much. I did it to my Phazer FX as well and on that sled the warmers where great.
Make sure you cover your plastics to protect from drips. I put tape over the bar ends before spraying the foam in. It makes cleaning the bar ends a non issue after it's dry.
These warmers simply do not work well but the foam may help a bit.
Make sure you cover your plastics to protect from drips. I put tape over the bar ends before spraying the foam in. It makes cleaning the bar ends a non issue after it's dry.
These warmers simply do not work well but the foam may help a bit.
stewartb
Expert
I drilled the end hole big enough for the tip of my foam gun, inserted the tip, and pulled the trigger. What surprised me was how fast I had foam blowing out the opposite hand grip. I pulled the tip out and foam oozed out the application end, too. Take the earlier advice about masking the area below the holes...on both sides! After the flow subsided I pushed some dart screws into the holes. A little foam seeped out both ends during the night but the darts stayed put.
The low expansion foam is meant to prevent deforming of flexible window and door frames. I used high expansion because I had some. Your steel bars won't care which product you use.
SB
The low expansion foam is meant to prevent deforming of flexible window and door frames. I used high expansion because I had some. Your steel bars won't care which product you use.
SB
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Also make sure that your sled is in a warm shop when you do this. I had done my nytro earlier this year and thought it was good. Foamed up nice on the bar ends, cut off the excess foam and good to go. Wrong, I guess my shop wasn't warm enough and the inside foam in the bars turned to goo. I recently took my stock grips off and found that about a 1/4 inside the bar from the ends, the foam didn't expand and turned to liquid. It may have been the type that I used. Not too sure. I did them again with a brand called daptex I believe. Cleans up with water and is a latex base.
Roger Rabbit
Newbie
Thats an old MX trick. Except you use silicone, it takes some of the vib out of the bars
TonyVT
Expert
Does it work?? No one realy said it.
Thanks :exc:
Thanks :exc:
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Johnny Five
Veteran
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2008
- Messages
- 25
- Location
- Lombardy, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha SR Viper RTX LE
Well I often sit and read and keep my thoughts to myself, but, I thought after reading dozens of pages on this I would also pipe in a bit. My first thought is that the handguards on these sleds are a bit too far away from the bars (lets cold air hit them and thus cools them). I put a set of skinz guards between the stock plastics and my hands and that helped immensely. I have on order a pair of Speedguards by Sportech, I hope I can move them closer to the bars! I see that Rock has come up with what seems to be the right solution! Good for you, glad you did, I will likely also be in touch. But, first what I tried was this - I bought a new set of bars (crashed last year and had a slight bend, so what the heck) and I put heavy duty heat shrink tubing on the bar (as insulation) it's available at any electrical store (Though propably not that important, I also wanted to fatten the grip size a bit). Then I put on my new, yes new yamaha heating elements and then I covered them with 3m linerless rubber spicing tape (34-7037-6236-8) (This roll is about 2in wide) It is fairly thin and so I believe that is the biggest advantage. You can wrap it on neatly so it doesn't look too bad but, more importantly, my hands were warm for the first time on this sled. Man I wish Yamaha would step up and own up to this problem, If Rock can figure it out, maybe he should offer the solution to Yamaha! And collect some dividends!
Anyway, I am getting off topic a bit, IF and only IF you were going to change your grips and heating elements to RSI or whoever, try this...Carefully cut off the stock grips, I recomend a light cut followed by a heatgun along that cut, then peel away! Wrap the splicing tape back over the heating elements, like I said, the tape is thin and thus you will feel the warmth much better! This is the Cheapest fix I have found! It's probably not the prettiest but, it's -25 C hear right now and I am not that concerned about what it looks like under my gloves! And more importantly my hands are warm, and the roll of tape is cheap!
Just my 2 cents worth, not to say that Rock's and Blueballer's idea's aren't way better but, mine is FAST and CHEAP!
Stay warm out there, have a good ride!
Anyway, I am getting off topic a bit, IF and only IF you were going to change your grips and heating elements to RSI or whoever, try this...Carefully cut off the stock grips, I recomend a light cut followed by a heatgun along that cut, then peel away! Wrap the splicing tape back over the heating elements, like I said, the tape is thin and thus you will feel the warmth much better! This is the Cheapest fix I have found! It's probably not the prettiest but, it's -25 C hear right now and I am not that concerned about what it looks like under my gloves! And more importantly my hands are warm, and the roll of tape is cheap!
Just my 2 cents worth, not to say that Rock's and Blueballer's idea's aren't way better but, mine is FAST and CHEAP!
Stay warm out there, have a good ride!
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I foamed mine this week and seems to make a slight difference, when foaming them I used a plastic bag and a zip tie to attached them to each end of the bars to capture the excess foam easing out and leave them over nite and trim off excess...like someone mentioned you MUST do this in a heated enviroment or the foam will not expand correctly.
BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
just spend the 135 bucks for rockmiesters hotrocks handle bar heater upgrade. they will scald your hands.
there is nothing wrong with the grips. they heat fine. the problem is with the computer sending power to the grip. his mod changes where it gets power from and makes it compatible with the computer so your buttons still work.
I have used the 07 and up bars on two other older sleds, viper and srx, the bars worked great on both these sleds. stop wasting your time trying to fix the heaters, its not the heaters, the bars, the grips, the guards, none of it is the problem. it is only the power to them.
there is nothing wrong with the grips. they heat fine. the problem is with the computer sending power to the grip. his mod changes where it gets power from and makes it compatible with the computer so your buttons still work.
I have used the 07 and up bars on two other older sleds, viper and srx, the bars worked great on both these sleds. stop wasting your time trying to fix the heaters, its not the heaters, the bars, the grips, the guards, none of it is the problem. it is only the power to them.
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