Moving along... I dropped the skid down and removed the stock shocks. Adapting the lower mount should be rather easy, using the same adapter type Fox supplies to mount the float on various machines. The upper mount will require removing the spherical bearing from the float and having a small bushing machined and pressed in. The bushing might be little thin, the mounting hole is a little larger than the upper shaft.
Hopefully the dampening will be within range.
There's no snow in sight around here, though with my sled in pieces that might change.
Hopefully the dampening will be within range.
There's no snow in sight around here, though with my sled in pieces that might change.
1CrazySledder
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Keep us posted..please.
=1CS
=1CS
Some pics showing the KYB, Polaris Float and Yamaha Float. The KYB weighs approx. 3 lbs more x 2 = 6lbs plus the elimination of the jounce torsion springs... about 7 lbs.
Travel is the same between KYB and Polaris Float... the Yami has about an inch more plus a top out spring inside the body.
The lower bushing from the KYB fits the Float perfectly!
The Yami Float installed for a trial fit... the upper float bushingless mount hole slides over the existing shaft (yellow circle). This is what eliminates near drop in status. Either a smaller shaft of stronger material will be required (so a bushing can be installed), or the mounting hole will need to be enlarged for enough bushing material to live in there... idea's?
Travel is the same between KYB and Polaris Float... the Yami has about an inch more plus a top out spring inside the body.
The lower bushing from the KYB fits the Float perfectly!
The Yami Float installed for a trial fit... the upper float bushingless mount hole slides over the existing shaft (yellow circle). This is what eliminates near drop in status. Either a smaller shaft of stronger material will be required (so a bushing can be installed), or the mounting hole will need to be enlarged for enough bushing material to live in there... idea's?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The easiest way would definitely be to enlarge the hole in the shock. What is the current clearance and how much material do you have to work with?
1CrazySledder
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We could get bushings made from Brass?
-1CS
-1CS
The mounting hole on the Float eye has about a 1" bore and is roughly 1/32" larger than the shaft. The Float forged aluminum mounting eye has 7/32" material at the thinest point, though it is wider than the KYB. The KYB steel eye has 1 1/8" bore and uses that funky misalignment type brass bushing that moves around inside it (the eye). So, how much to bore? Perhaps a little structural analysis would help here... I'd hate to pound the eyes apart on top out.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You've got to be careful with this. If the float is aluminum, then you can't run a brass bushing against it - not hard enough. That means that you'll need to insert a piece of steel into the eye to run a bushing against.
This is what I would suggest;
That float should be modified. You want to thicken up the OUTSIDE of the mounting eye, then bore it out enough to add a steel insert with the same ID as the KYB shock. That means weld it thicker.
Alternative (not as good since it weakens everything) is to turn down the shaft just where the shock sits, use a 2-piece bushing, and add a very thin hardened steel insert into the shock.
This is what I would suggest;
That float should be modified. You want to thicken up the OUTSIDE of the mounting eye, then bore it out enough to add a steel insert with the same ID as the KYB shock. That means weld it thicker.
Alternative (not as good since it weakens everything) is to turn down the shaft just where the shock sits, use a 2-piece bushing, and add a very thin hardened steel insert into the shock.
1CrazySledder
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Okay. That sounds right. Why not make a new rod out of Titanium? Lighter and much stronger than the aluminum. This way a guy could turn it down to allow for a bushing?
I really want to see this work which is why I'm all over this thread. lol We have to get this to work. I'm wondering if someone like HyGear hasn't done something like this yet?
-1CS
I really want to see this work which is why I'm all over this thread. lol We have to get this to work. I'm wondering if someone like HyGear hasn't done something like this yet?
-1CS
What you suggest is how the KYB is set up for the rubber bushing, that body is cast aluminum and a smidge narrower. As mentioned above, the Float is forged and a little wider.
Edit: you beat me to it...
If the latter route is chosen, a new shaft of smaller diameter and stronger material could be used... that would require sleeves to adapt the wheels and such.
I have plenty of fabricating experience, and a machine shop that can handle just about anything I throw their way. Dropping the shaft from the current diameter to 3/4" or so would give room for the bushing, but I won;t go for it the strength can't be matched at the least.
Edit: you beat me to it...
If the latter route is chosen, a new shaft of smaller diameter and stronger material could be used... that would require sleeves to adapt the wheels and such.
I have plenty of fabricating experience, and a machine shop that can handle just about anything I throw their way. Dropping the shaft from the current diameter to 3/4" or so would give room for the bushing, but I won;t go for it the strength can't be matched at the least.
irondog rtx
Extreme
expert float mod
oh boy got to get some I got a ti pro action shaft in my tool box in fact I have two where are you guys theres plenty of meat on this shaft to turn down for a pilot shaft are you guys thinking what Im thinking? 180 miles to a mill for me would it not work to do like yamaha and use a plastic bushing I lost some stepped heim reducers is what carver calls them the yamaha floats take two dif pn and a ice wheel plastic insert from ski doo is same size as float eye, I used some home made bushings to get buy till I get some from carvers they work alright some made out of plastic and some made out of wahl bros alun inserts for there billit ice wheels dont know if this helps but it can be done long life is now the problem to make something that will last pm me see what we can do I have epert x and sell them kim
oh boy got to get some I got a ti pro action shaft in my tool box in fact I have two where are you guys theres plenty of meat on this shaft to turn down for a pilot shaft are you guys thinking what Im thinking? 180 miles to a mill for me would it not work to do like yamaha and use a plastic bushing I lost some stepped heim reducers is what carver calls them the yamaha floats take two dif pn and a ice wheel plastic insert from ski doo is same size as float eye, I used some home made bushings to get buy till I get some from carvers they work alright some made out of plastic and some made out of wahl bros alun inserts for there billit ice wheels dont know if this helps but it can be done long life is now the problem to make something that will last pm me see what we can do I have epert x and sell them kim
Check with a company called Scot-Built (http://www.scott-bilt.com/playhard/). They had a Expert with Floats but for some reason I recall he couldn't get them to work all that well. Everyone has their own preferences though, he may be able to help you with what he did to make the shocks fit though. I'm curious to hear your results.
Custom Sled Shop
Expert
floats!
OH MAN!! I wanted to do this also..
I am buddys with Denis Boivin, Me and a buddy drove down to see him in the spring an broght him 3 sets of floats Reg, clicker, & EVOLS
Denis said NONE would work right! Man I was pissed!! Yes they will fit in
the skid, But they wont work right!!
he also said.. if they would work they would sell them as an upgrade kit!
If you do get it out for a ride let me know how it works!!
good luck!
OH MAN!! I wanted to do this also..
I am buddys with Denis Boivin, Me and a buddy drove down to see him in the spring an broght him 3 sets of floats Reg, clicker, & EVOLS
Denis said NONE would work right! Man I was pissed!! Yes they will fit in
the skid, But they wont work right!!
he also said.. if they would work they would sell them as an upgrade kit!
If you do get it out for a ride let me know how it works!!
good luck!
1CrazySledder
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Rotax_Kid said:
I'm going to either email or call Jeff Scott. I did look at his site. I'll find out if these shocks will work well in trail form. This site is actually for Mountain sleds. I'll post the results I find out.
I hope this works. Aas the post before me says, the designer of this skid tried it and it didn't work well. I'll find out as much info as I can.
-1CS
I got a quick response from Jeff this AM. The basic issue seems to be good ride = machine sitting too low. To get things sitting at the proper height, one needs to pump the floats pressure up.... then things get stiff in a hurry. I have this same problem on my Suzuki King Quad 700 right now, which is a running a Float X at each corner.
1CrazySledder
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This can't be good. We need to be a the correct hight or we will have problems.
-1CS
-1CS
