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Fault Codes, Relay/Fuse Location, Wire diagram, Diagnostics


The main fuse supplies power to three separate components, The rectifier/regulator in the nose, The load control relay which then continues to the fuse box for lighting when active and the fuse box to power the fan and ignition. Once the main feed reaches the fuse box each individual circuit is protected by another fuse so in theory everything past that point should blow the fuse in the box before the main fuse. Look for a shorted wiring harness to these direct feed points and if all is OK and it continues to blow the main fuse you could pull the load control relay and run without lights to eliminate that relay. The common harness rub spots are under the steering post and behind the primary clutch. Also check to see if it's charging the battery to verify that the rectifier/regulator is functioning properly.

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Found it behind clutch. Just barely rubed through. Took out 20 amp fuse. . Thanks for this thread. It has helped me fix 2 nytro's now. One trail side.
 
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Grizz, fantastic research and wiring information. What did you do to power "add-on" items as far as connections to the battery, ground, avoiding multiple in-line fuses holders, etc. In my front end+ rebuild thread I am now into the HID install and first order of business was loom the rats nest of wires from the YamaHeater behind the headlamp in order to have enough space to then put in the HID harnesses and various control boxes and allow clean air flow to the radiator. As part of my looming, I had to extend the power and ground wires for the YamaHeater as well as a replacement left grip wire done in the past otherwise you could not lift the entire harness to access and remove the airbox cover (I added SB air medallions on the cover). Both of the power connections were somewhat hacked and connected to old in-line fuse holders tie wrapped to the battery wire to the starter relay (see pic) resulting in three power wires on the relay bolt: battery (stock), YamaHeater, Grips. I removed these last night as I don't like putting multiple wires direct on the battery of starter relay if I can help it so in the field repairs are logical and you can isolate add-ons with a simple known fuse pull if needed. Seems like maybe you or others have a power distribution solution for add-on items. I could add one new power feed off the battery to an aftermarket motorcycle fuse box and clean everything up (assuming such an item exists). I plan to power these add-ons: YamaHeater, PowerMadd handguard LEDs, HIDs, heated shield, GPS (future). Brings up the question of what can our nytro power systems handle for a draw? Currently I have a battery tender as the only extra wires directly off the battery with the lead up by the bars for easy connection. Curious what others have done for add-on power / ground systems.

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Wiring schematic:
*See PDF file attachment for download*
View attachment 135079

Nytro Fault Codes and Relay Location Diagram:
View attachment 134856

Relay locations (2 - 5) may vary, See relay wire code diagram for correct positioning.
View attachment 134410

Relay wire color code
View attachment 134715

New for 2014 is a new solid state fuel relay (old relays were mechanical - moving parts) - the new solid state relay has no internal moving parts so sticking when cold shouldn't be a problem. The part number on this new relay is 8GN-81950-00-00 and it can be identified by its red casing. The new relay has the holder part built into it

View attachment 134411

Starter relay and components:

View attachment 134412
Fuse location:
View attachment 134413

Diagnostic Mode:
View attachment 134407

Diagnostic Mode Codes:

View attachment 134408
View attachment 134409
This is exactly what I've been searching for online, will this work for a 2011 nytro? Should i replace the three relays with the same part number?
 
This should be basically the same for all FX Nytro's. Only minor changes were made to the Nytro over all the build years.
 
Stupid question but asking anyways because i dont see a clear answer anywhere else
Where and when do you see the fault code? Is it a series of ligbt flashes? An actuall number on the display? Or do you have to put it in diagnostic mode to get the code?
If you do have to put it in diag mode, whats the process to disconnect the wire harness coupler for the fuel pump as stated in the instructions? Or am I reading it wrong?
Thanks
 
If there's an error present the gauge will display the fault code as a flashing number under the MPH
 
Ok thanks....started getting a warning light last trip, but it was cold out and i was too much of a wuss to try and diagnose it trail side Light went out after cycling the key off then restarting, but dont remember if there was an actual code showing Riding a short trip tomorrow, so will look into further if it happens again.
Thanks again
 
Ok guys, digging back in before the snow flies. My gently ridden(not so much ;) ) 11,000+ mile Nytro really started acting up with an electrical gremlin last year. Sled will be running fine, then suddenly throw the warning light and hand warmer code, and starts to run rough, along with a voltage drop at the battery. Drops from 14v+ to 12ish
What I have found and what I have done to find any issue:

Checked Stator voltage and also Ohms....all good. Plus the same intermittent situation happens at idle with stator disconnected and fully charged battery. Pulled stator, no visible signs of issue(no burnt windings)
Scoured the wiring harness for any signs of rub through, ground spider connector corrosion,etc, with nothing obvious found.
Added grounds everywhere I could think.....battery to frame, motor to frame, and other ground wire areas that Im trying to remember...it was last season.
Replaced the starter relay, and also cleaned up corrosion in the original....neither changed the issue
Replaced Regulator/rectifier with a known good used one...no change.
Disconnected Headlights, handwarmers, fan, and aux plug. no change.

Notables:
Brand new Yuasa battery start of last year. Bad battery ??? Shorted plates??
Had to replace exhaust manifolds just before this started happening, but cant find any issues around that area.....no broken or rubbed through wires, etc.
Havent replaced relays to the SSR's, but seems like I moved them around to diff locations and with no change.
If I run the absolute Pizz out of it(rpms kept high corner to corner), I dont seem to have the issue, but my son and wife ride it, and yeah....they dont ride it like I do.

I have the front end off now, and pulling fuel tank next, and will be stripping wiring harness again to double check for any missed rub throughs but not confident I will find any, as I did a pretty thorough job last year....then again, Im getting old and cant see for Chit soooo! lol

Any other areas to check?
Has anyone had fuel pump or fuel level sensor go bad and cause a similar issue?? Hand warmer switch?

Getting close to pulling the trigger on another low mileaged Nytro, and use this old one as a spare parts sled!!! LOL

Help !!

One more thing to add. I did send the ECU to Evo a few years back for a handwarmer reflash, but didnt have any issues the first year or so after. Maybe something with the reflash that just took some time to surface???
 
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Ok, dug a little deeper today than where I got last year, still nutt'n! Not so much as a nick in any of the wires, and ground block spiders still look great, no corrision. Any common components go bad that could cause what im experiencing? Coils? Hand warmer switch??
 
I chased a electrical problem for a month once. I even had a spare ecu. So I thought that was not it. Until my friend brought over his ecu Cause everything’s pointed to that being the problem, and it worked. I was going to try a new wiring harness next, man I hate wiring
 
Yeah, thats kinda where im at too. Need to check around and see if I can borrow one, but none of my local friends have Nytros. We have one local used parts guy that Ive thrown a fair share of money at, maybe I can convince him to let me try one.
 
How do you know the voltage is dropping as soon as the warmer code is thrown?
 


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