Finally good news,sled now rocks,and transfers very good

[snowbeast]

Great news! Sounds like you could even add a little more weight and it may pull harder...if that's possible. Lol.

Well we now have less weight in tips,from where we had it,see what we gain by tweeking the secondary for a bit,the twin tunstens in tip are total of 80.9 to 81 grams,and at the time could not run it before we did this last mod,now it still may only work if I change secondary set up,but it is so close,and rips so hard now that it transfers weight,what a huge difference.

 

[Sledroll]

Ha Ha,you need a MTX tunnel ? lol

it appears on this site the only way to get decent transfer is to install the MTX tunnel !And then lower the hole an inch !
Seriously !!!!!!!
Surely those of you that I rely on for upgrades , can do better than what snowbeast stumbled on !

 

[maim]

i saw you had replaced your tunnel. just wondering if your new hole height is lower than a stock one as all have been wanting better transfer on the 137.

 

[snowbeast]

it appears on this site the only way to get decent transfer is to install the MTX tunnel !And then lower the hole an inch !
Seriously !!!!!!!
Surely those of you that I rely on for upgrades , can do better than what snowbeast stumbled on !

It was more like my only choice,i would much rather have had the stock LTX tunnel myself,and would not have had to redrill anything,but would of still removed the blocks.

 

[snowbeast]

i saw you had replaced your tunnel. just wondering if your new hole height is lower than a stock one as all have been wanting better transfer on the 137.

Really close to stock height,i don't think I would drill another hole in my stock tunnel,but I would remove my blocks completely,but leave the rod intact.

 

[Sledroll]

Really close to stock height,i don't think I would drill another hole in my stock tunnel,but I would remove my blocks completely,but leave the rod intact.

The 137 LTX LE , still doesnt transfer with the blocks out .
I'm not sure it even hits the bar .
what next ?
Would it transfer better if the slot movement at the front arm of the skid was eliminated ?

 

[snowbeast]

The 137 LTX LE , still doesnt transfer with the blocks out .
I'm not sure it even hits the bar .
what next ?
Would it transfer better if the slot movement at the front arm of the skid was eliminated ?

Wow,so yours still don't transfer with blocks and rod out? What do you weigh? If you have stock 8" rear wheels,and not bigger 8.4 like TD sells,you can remove your rod and block,if it still don't transfer,man what or where do you have your rebound clicker set on your rear shock? try turning it in,CW till it is closed,than back out CCW 5-7 clicks,and set rear springs soft,and remove some preload from front skid coil over spring,that should help.

 

[Sledroll]

Wow,so yours still don't transfer with blocks and rod out? What do you weigh? If you have stock 8" rear wheels,and not bigger 8.4 like TD sells,you can remove your rod and block,if it still don't transfer,man what or where do you have your rebound clicker set on your rear shock? try turning it in,CW till it is closed,than back out CCW 5-7 clicks,and set rear springs soft,and remove some preload from front skid coil over spring,that should help.

Blocks are out and bar is in .
I hesitated to take the bar out because I wasn't sure about hitting the 8" back wheels .
If I take the bar out then I won't have any adjust ability , which isn't right on a sled like this .
I'm 250 dressed .
I haven't adjusted anything else as I didn't want to ruin the great ride , and ok steering , for this season.
I had my rear torsion springs on the softest setting , until I noticed the back end wouldn't pop up when I got off , and instead of feeling like I was sliding into the gas tank , when it was new , it now feels like I am sliding back , so I increased the setting one turn .
It rides more level now , but still doesn't pop up , even half way.
I don't know what the rebound is at , but will check .
If you take out some pre load on the front skid spring , won't that make the steering harder ?
If you take out some rebound , won't that will affect the great ride ?
If the Cat 137 transfers then it must be the shock package / settings , but I don't know if the Cat does .

 

[GlennM]

No pics?

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

 

[jonlafon1]

Blocks are out and bar is in .
I hesitated to take the bar out because I wasn't sure about hitting the 8" back wheels .
If I take the bar out then I won't have any adjust ability , which isn't right on a sled like this .
I'm 250 dressed .
I haven't adjusted anything else as I didn't want to ruin the great ride , and ok steering , for this season.
I had my rear torsion springs on the softest setting , until I noticed the back end wouldn't pop up when I got off , and instead of feeling like I was sliding into the gas tank , when it was new , it now feels like I am sliding back , so I increased the setting one turn .
It rides more level now , but still doesn't pop up , even half way.
I don't know what the rebound is at , but will check .
If you take out some pre load on the front skid spring , won't that make the steering harder ?
If you take out some rebound , won't that will affect the great ride ?
If the Cat 137 transfers then it must be the shock package / settings , but I don't know if the Cat does .

If your 250 dressed, IMO you should be on the stiffest setting in the back(three setting plastic triangle).. Also when sitting on sled in normal riding position with normal riding gear on the sled should sink 2-3 inches > MAX.. IMO you do not want to be riding on the torsion blocks or metal if you removed the blocks(you want to be riding or hitting the blocks or bar when accelerating = transfer) .. I do not have the exact same sled but I weight 225 dressed for riding and I have mine on the stiffest setting in back on springs.. Not saying everyone likes it my way just adding my two cents on your setting

 

[Sledroll]

If your 250 dressed, IMO you should be on the stiffest setting in the back(three setting plastic triangle).. Also when sitting on sled in normal riding position with normal riding gear on the sled should sink 2-3 inches > MAX.. IMO you do not want to be riding on the torsion blocks or metal if you removed the blocks(you want to be riding or hitting the blocks or bar when accelerating = transfer) .. I do not have the exact same sled but I weight 225 dressed for riding and I have mine on the stiffest setting in back on springs.. Not saying everyone likes it my way just adding my two cents on your setting

Thanks for the feedback .
No one has ever told me to stiffen the torsions , but then again I never described the low rider feeling that has developed.
I set the torsion setting to the 2nd least softest position , and didn't really notice a different ride , but felt a touch more level on the seat .
I hope we have a dropping of snow soon to try some of these suggestions , or I might forget by next season !

 

[jonlafon1]

Thanks for the feedback .
No one has ever told me to stiffen the torsions , but then again I never described the low rider feeling that has developed.
I set the torsion setting to the 2nd least softest position , and didn't really notice a different ride , but felt a touch more level on the seat .
I hope we have a dropping of snow soon to try some of these suggestions , or I might forget by next season !

Hope you get it where you like it, and it transfers..

 

[ROCKERDAN]

If you increase the rear torsions MORE, you will transfer even LESS then currently....

I tried everything, the LTX wont transfer period....

We even(Tom and I) got on sled with studs, and NOPE...I mean what sled does not wheelie with over 500 lbs on back? Something is just off with the LTX skid design/hole location IMO.

I sure hope the RTX is more typical transfer..the "fun factor" becomes painful with NO transfer.

Blocks removed and staps longest(one hole beyond stock-Last hole) And I dont even think that made a BIG difference. My DOO has LESS distance to my blocks and it has huge transfer. IMO the rear of the skid is not collapsing enough under accel, not sure why. I think someone needs to experiment with where the scissors bolts to rails to dial in a sweet spot.

Longer straps may help some, as the last hole did allow the sled to now transfer back just a tad and hold there...that last hole did MORE to help then removing the blocks did. But too long straps, you will likely start to stab the rail caps into clips.

Dan

 

[DMCTurbo]

If you increase the rear torsions MORE, you will transfer even LESS then currently....

I tried everything, the LTX wont transfer period....

We even(Tom and I) got on sled with studs, and NOPE...I mean what sled does not wheelie with over 500 lbs on back? Something is just off with the LTX skid design/hole location IMO.

I sure hope the RTX is more typical transfer..the "fun factor" becomes painful with NO transfer.

Blocks removed and staps longest(one hole beyond stock-Last hole) And I dont even think that made a BIG difference. My DOO has LESS distance to my blocks and it has huge transfer. IMO the rear of the skid is not collapsing enough under accel, not sure why. I think someone needs to experiment with where the scissors bolts to rails to dial in a sweet spot.

Longer straps may help some, as the last hole did allow the sled to now transfer back just a tad and hold there...that last hole did MORE to help then removing the blocks did. But too long straps, you will likely start to stab the rail caps into clips.

Dan

I wonder how removing the bar would affect it.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I wonder how removing the bar would affect it.

Heard someone took out rear wheels without the bar, so I did not try that.