turbo5
Newbie
I have just purchased a 2003 RX 1 Bender Stage 11 turbo snowmobile....I have spent the last couple of days reading through the forums here and have learned a lot already....this Yamaha turbo family seems to be a fairly close knit one from what I've seen so far....The story on my sled is it apparently (as told by the guy I bought it from) belonged to a fellow who died racing another sled in the Holland Marsh...his brother traded it in on a watercraft at a Marina in the Muskoka's and now I have it...If anyone knows more about this story or even knows the machine by all means feel free to contact me...I am thinking of upgrading the turbo to a 2560 and have even gone as far as contacing Ted Jannetty at Turbo Addiction about this...Before I dig into the old wallet though I would like to hear any thoughts from other turbo owners on there advice...I have added a couple of pics of the sled
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mulot30th
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apex mountain crracing 174
apex blower 136 for asphalt racing
osp drag race sled (apex engine based)
I see the stock fuel pumps... how did they get them to work with boost?
mbarryracing
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They don't, they are bypassed with an electric fuel pump and rising rate regulator that is mounted in the nose, return line goes to the aluminum fuel block under the fuel tanks level sensor (seen in pic).
mulot30th
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apex mountain crracing 174
apex blower 136 for asphalt racing
osp drag race sled (apex engine based)
mbarryracing said:They don't, they are bypassed with an electric fuel pump and rising rate regulator.
woops my may need lensglasses
mbarryracing
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No you see it correctly. Just the stock pulse pumps are still mounted, not removed, just not used to feed the carbs...mulot30th said:mbarryracing said:They don't, they are bypassed with an electric fuel pump and rising rate regulator.
woops my may need lensglasses
BigDog05
VIP Member
The original idea was to be able to get home if something went wrong with the electric pump.
Otis RX
Expert
Welcome to the Boosted Club!
She looks like a pretty clean install.
The first thing you might want to do is get a set of Billet Carb Caps from Jannetty. The stock plastic ones tend to leak boost. You "will be" turning up the boost! Ted can also help with all aspects of future up grades.
Here's a couple of pics from when I replaced my 2554 with a 2560R.
It fits.
Good Luck!
OTIS RX
She looks like a pretty clean install.
The first thing you might want to do is get a set of Billet Carb Caps from Jannetty. The stock plastic ones tend to leak boost. You "will be" turning up the boost! Ted can also help with all aspects of future up grades.
Here's a couple of pics from when I replaced my 2554 with a 2560R.
It fits.
Good Luck!
OTIS RX
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TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
It could be Vin Bon's sled of Vin Bon wines. Tony was killed on his SRX about 5 years ago on the holland river here in ontario. Head on Collission with another sled. His brother Phil probably did sell the rx1 but I thought theirs was blue with a bender kit.
turbo5
Newbie
That sounds right about the Vin Bon guy....I was told the exact same story......If anyone knows more of the history of this sled...I would like to hear about it ...for example...how long before the turbo was installed..the odometer reads 2423 Miles....not much really for a sled that is 7 years old....It is in perfect shape but a couple of things don't add up.....It has a brand new track on it...I don't get it...were the OEM tracks a problem?.My brother in law has a stock 2003 RX 1 with close to 20000 kms on it and it still has the original track....I also have a 2001 Polaris XCR 800 (done up with close to 200hp) and I drive it like I stole it and the track has lasted almost 7500 miles so far...and is still in perfect shape...I bought the RX 1 turbo because I heard it is the only sled that will beat the XCR....nothing else I have seen so far will...especially anything Polaris offers....It also eats those AC turbo's for breakfast...Plus I don't look good in green.....so far from what I have discovered the XCR will beat the RX 1 pretty bad out of the hole but then things change once the RX 1 gets going....The belt is wore quite a bit so that should improve with a new belt...They guy I bought my XCR from was converted a few years ago when he bought a new RX 1 and put a Bender turbo on it....In speaking with him I was convinced this was the way to go...As I said before this is a totally new thing for me....I was the original Johhny Skeptical....you know...2 stroke forever type of thing
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
The sled will only have those km on it, they barely used it and Tony had it, they were mostly racers ice/grass. The sled was Tony's he had a few different rides a big bore SXR,a couple doo's that turbo sled and a 440 I beleive. They didn't do much in the way or trail riding etc they went to the races. I am pretty sure unfortunately for you they couldn't make that sled work all to well. I don't know if its the kit or the tuning etc...
Does it still have the high / low boost switch on it etc? I can vaguely remember the sled honestly, I remember riding it once and it had so much lag it was crazy.
Keep us posted how it works out.
Does it still have the high / low boost switch on it etc? I can vaguely remember the sled honestly, I remember riding it once and it had so much lag it was crazy.
Keep us posted how it works out.
Otis RX
Expert
Some people found the stock "finger" track that came on the 03RX1 just didn't have the grip/hook necessary to move the RX1 like it should be moved. Especially with a turbo added. I for one was one of those guys. I took the stock track off in 05 as soon as I added my bender turbo stage 2. The stock track could have lasted a lot longer if I wanted it to. I called Camoplast and they recommeded a more conventional lugged track.
Now I'm running a 136" Proline and a speed track.
You should ride it for a while and determine what you do and don't like about the setup. Then call Ted Jannetty, discuss it with him and save yourself a lot on time, headaches and money.
Of course this site is a world of information and everyone is very helpful.
OTIS
Now I'm running a 136" Proline and a speed track.
You should ride it for a while and determine what you do and don't like about the setup. Then call Ted Jannetty, discuss it with him and save yourself a lot on time, headaches and money.
Of course this site is a world of information and everyone is very helpful.
OTIS
turbo5
Newbie
I have already emailed Ted Jannetty...he responded (quickly) about upgrading to the 2560 turbo....As gor the Hi/Low boost switch...it is in the engine compartment beside the steering column...kind of a stupid place for it but at least it likely would never freeze up as I have heard the ones mounted on the dash or handlebars can...does any body have any pics of the quiet muffler setup FPP sells
mbarryracing
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Here are some pic's of the FPP stainless trail turbo muffler on BigDog05's sled??? from one of his posts in another thread? I don't have a pic of my Apex muffler with me...
Exits the stock location & cones, fits under the stock heat shield. Very stealth and sounds awesome.
Exits the stock location & cones, fits under the stock heat shield. Very stealth and sounds awesome.
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BigDog05
VIP Member
turbo5: First off, I'm no expert and get tons of help from the guys on this site. I'll take credit for 80% of my turbo problems since this is my first turbo anything.
Bender systems are known for a very rich bottom end and a very lean midrange as originally set up. They appear harder to dial in the higher the elevation. Unless you are racing a very seriously modified XCR, the original stage 2 should not have any problems with it.
First thing you must do is check your hoses off the bottom of the intercooler. One should go to the fuel pressure regulator. If you only have 1 other left, it goes to the rear of the carbs to raise the carb slides. You need to add another line and have each line go to a pair of carbs. This will help your midrange a little but will still be slightly lean. Then you should get billet Tee's and billet carb caps. Ted for one will get those to you in a day or two.
I ride at 2200-2900 ft elevation. At home I'm at about 900 ft elevation and I can actually tell more of the low end bog at the top of the mountain compared to home.
Read this post http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=71794
Get a wideband ASAP.
If your problems are still with the holeshot area, a quick fix for that would be a set of Hurricane Performance carb springs. They will make your hole shot feel like a different sled. HOWEVER they will give you an even leaner midrange. That is where an wideband A/f gauge becomes so important.
Do a search for Bender and turbo. Lots of reading.
Bender systems are known for a very rich bottom end and a very lean midrange as originally set up. They appear harder to dial in the higher the elevation. Unless you are racing a very seriously modified XCR, the original stage 2 should not have any problems with it.
First thing you must do is check your hoses off the bottom of the intercooler. One should go to the fuel pressure regulator. If you only have 1 other left, it goes to the rear of the carbs to raise the carb slides. You need to add another line and have each line go to a pair of carbs. This will help your midrange a little but will still be slightly lean. Then you should get billet Tee's and billet carb caps. Ted for one will get those to you in a day or two.
I ride at 2200-2900 ft elevation. At home I'm at about 900 ft elevation and I can actually tell more of the low end bog at the top of the mountain compared to home.
Read this post http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=71794
Get a wideband ASAP.
If your problems are still with the holeshot area, a quick fix for that would be a set of Hurricane Performance carb springs. They will make your hole shot feel like a different sled. HOWEVER they will give you an even leaner midrange. That is where an wideband A/f gauge becomes so important.
Do a search for Bender and turbo. Lots of reading.
BigDog05
VIP Member
turbo5: I did away with the two long hoses from under the intercooler to each pair of carb slides and put short ones on top the intercooler. However you do it, you need 2 hoses though.
Also vented both rear exhaust covers. Seems to help with the longer K&N filter.
Also vented both rear exhaust covers. Seems to help with the longer K&N filter.
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