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First trip out with Rear Heat Exchanger & Studs are Hitt

blackattak

Expert
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
259
Location
SouthEast N.B. Canada
I stressed to my dealer this week that I would rather see the dummy light come on than add the exchanger & see green fluid. He said with the new one this would not be an issue, he was SURE of it. WELL IT STILL IS AN ISSUE. I am studded 4 by 2 up the middle of the track. Where the tunnel protectors go there are no studs anyways, but in the middle the studs have cut thru most of the fins on the exchanger. Good news was I noticed it earlier in the trip so I cut back on my speed and ended up making it thru the day without seeing any green fluid. A drag as the trails were perfect & great for high speed runs (plus we are expecting huge rain here tomorrow).
The only thing I can think of is the added weight of the studs is making the track balloon so much that it is stretching the middle out to the point it is hitting the exchanger. So be warned the new one with the new tunnel protector sold by Yamaha at the higher price still has this issue.
Now my quandry. What to do?
1)Take off the damaged heat exchanger I just spend $300 on (is it still OK) and put the old rear tube in?
2) Change to another track (a new prestudded one like an ICERIPPER or other, ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?) Getting tired of stud damage on my Yamahas. Don't think something like the ICERIPPER would still hit the exchanger, am I right?
Plan on negotiating with the dealer as I had told them (HAVE IT IN WRITING) that I did not want the exchanger if there was ANY risk of the studs hitting it. Spent the $$$ & hate to be right but.... Now my sled is parked for a Sunday as don't want to risk it. Thinking about saying that OK they made a mistake but now I want a new track at cost installed for free (Paid labour for last job that should not have been done!) :o|
 

The heat exchanger protector's are designed to be inline with the track clips, the protectors hit the track there when you bottom out or the track balloons. If you have contact with your rear heat exchanger or front with tunnel protectors your studs are to long. You can add material to the protectors so you can run longer studs, but I would'nt recommend it.
 
If its just the rear exchanger getting hit, I would add material to the rear protector as RealDeal suggested.
Im also wondering about the length of the studs? Your protectors should work fine if the Studs are 3/8" or less above the lugs. What track do you have and do you have any pics?
It may help diagnose the problem.
 
Dealer checked track tension & said everything was fine, there would be no issues.

Studs barely longer than the lugs. Thinking it is all the mass in the middle of the original ripsaw track that came with my Attak.

The metal plate behind the coolant tube that was replaced had been hit by studs, the mechanic said musy have been ice but it is very evident now that it is studs hitting.

Will try to get pics today.
 
Measure how far the stud protrudes past the lower lug section of the track between the windows. Compare that to the height of your protectors(usually aroung 7/8-1") , if the stud protrudes that far or further, you will have to add to the protector or get shorter studs.
Are the stud hitting anywhere else, or just at the rear?
 

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How much do the protecters hang below the rear cooler? When I made my first set I put them up against the cooler and my studs rubbed on it.Then I made them hang down about 1/2".Now no more problems.
Rich
 
I'd like to know what size studs you guys are using as I was going to stud with the minumin size 1.325 from Woodys....if you guys are using that size I may have to change my mind.
 
CaptCaper said:
I'd like to know what size studs you guys are using as I was going to stud with the minumin size 1.325 from Woodys....if you guys are using that size I may have to change my mind.
You have to watch out when going by the stud size! If I remember correctly, the studs I used were 1.175(less then 1 1/4) but gave me 1/4" penetration over my 1 1/4 lug!
Each manufacture measure their studs differently , and depending on which track you are studding ,will give you a different length from the track surface.
This is Woodys
http://www.woodystraction.com/content/t ... 6-0001.pdf
This is StudBoys
http://www.studboytraction.com/studding_process.htm

If you have a 1 1/4" lug, a 1-1/2" stud may give you more then 1/4" penetration.
 
Pics still can't attach with these directions. Pics saved in Windows VISTA system. Pics saved are 820 JPEG so may be too big to attach. I have the add attachment box open but don't know how to then get the picture moved from Microsoft Office Picture to this forum.
 
Damage is only on the rear exchanger. The studs stick out a lot less than 3/8". The protector they added is a thin metal. They attached that to where they cut the original tunnel protector, probably less than 1/4 " thick & lower than the original. They bolted it to where they cut it off. On a previous posting with the bigger cooler needed for the attak it looks as if the protector he used was the same width as the original. If that had been over my cooler then maybe things would have been alright. I have heard the issue is on the long tracks & not the Apex anyways. like my attak but overheating issue is more common with it so having the rear exchanger would be nice. Also have sen postings about WATER WETTER but I think this is available only in the States.

I went out & took more pics in a smaller format but still have no idea how to post them here. The new VISTA system from Windows is also a different beast. Pics now on computer in microsoft office pictures manager & are around 95 kb so well below max allowed on this site but still don't seem to be able. Last message on this the guy said hit add attachments then "go to your pic file add click on that pic". If someone could explain it better I will send the pics along.
 


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