Front engine mount removal- bolt only... or rubber insert as well?

[Silver4]

Replacing starter, reaching removal time ... about to tilt engine back.
I don't understand the front engine mounts.... I removed bolts but doesn't look like engine will tilt back unless this sleeve or rubber thing is removed? Or maybe it will?
If you have removed these front mounts and tilted engine (or removed it) can you please clarify? I don't want to start hammering/prying out a sleeve/bushing if I should not!

or maybe I should be removing the 2 (visible) bolts that seem to be holding a bracket that secures the engine mount?
I thought this part would be easy but I really don't want to wreck the mounts!
Thanks so much!

 

[Silver4]

Does anyone know the front motor mount torque spec?

 

[thrasher]

When I replaced mine, I had to remove the brackets as well( the two visible bolts), as it gave a little more room to tilt the engine. Torque specs are: 12 mm bolt-40 ft. lb,
14 mm bolt -61 ft. lb

 

[Silver4]

So appreciated thank you Thrasher! So the process is:
1. lift engine to remove downward pressure
2. remove 14mm bolt and washers then
3. pry out rubber sleeve or something? .... or do I instead
remove 2 12 mm bolts shown therefore exposing rubber sleeve and it comes right out so motor can tilt?

Do I have this right?

 

[Silver4]

Now I am finding 2 new disturbing things
1) I may need a special tool??
2) I can screw up the alignment if I remove the engine mounts wrong?
I don't understand why I cant find more detail about this or maybe I'm overthinking this?? Maybe I just pull the bolts out and lift???

Thanks again Thrasher, but if anyone can give detailed explanation about what to expect with front engine mounts I may be able to get to my starter tomorrow! Cheers

 

[RobX-1]

Here's a post that contains pictures that might be helpful. Not envying you as I too have a starter to replace but it's much simpler on a 4 cylinder Apex since it's on top and not underneath the motor.

 

[thrasher]

You do not have to remove the rubber sleeve, as it is threaded and that's how you can adjust your clutch alignment. Do not try to remove this. If you remove the two long bolts, the front of the engine is now free. I had to remove the entire remaining bracket as well, as lifting the engine the bracket caught on the steering mechanism for me. I also was needing to replace my stator, and I needed more movement in the engine to accomplish this, which made replacing the starter easy as I had to do more to replace the stator. I used a block and tackle set up to lift the engine.

 

[Silver4]

Here's a post that contains pictures that might be helpful. Not envying you as I too have a starter to replace but it's much simpler on a 4 cylinder Apex since it's on top and not underneath the motor.

With absolute credit to Grizztracks... this is what he sent me.
Between his and Thrashers' comments I think I (and hopefully others) will get the idea...
"The motor position is set by the rear mount and there is no actual adjustment for clutch alignment. If you remove the front mounts there are collars that tighten against the motor mounts. These collars are turned in against the mount until they are snug but not so tight they push the rubber mount out of it's original location. If you remove the engine mounts from the block don't mix them up...... there is a left and right. If you can lift the engine without disturbing the collars then it should go back in without worrying about readjusting them."

In gratitude to all who took the time to respond... and now to tackle the tilt and reach...

 

[Silver4]

You do not have to remove the rubber sleeve, as it is threaded and that's how you can adjust your clutch alignment. Do not try to remove this. If you remove the two long bolts, the front of the engine is now free. I had to remove the entire remaining bracket as well, as lifting the engine the bracket caught on the steering mechanism for me. I also was needing to replace my stator, and I needed more movement in the engine to accomplish this, which made replacing the starter easy as I had to do more to replace the stator. I used a block and tackle set up to lift the engine.

Thank you for this reference RobX-1, I have been following that extremely good post and when I'm done I hope to elaborate. For anyone attempting this, I would say that is the best post, however like most, it simply says "remove front engine mounts" without indications of what this actually means- thus this post