FX Problem after overheat

TORS code went away when I swapped the throttle bodies back over. I'm pretty sure I just had the throttle cable too tight.
I had the old wiring harness I took off so I just made a jumper with the appropriate ends on it to go between the 2 connectors. You're supposed to just be able to just connect them together, but you'd have to un-wrap some of the tape to be able to get the wires to bend around enough to connect them.
I didn't like hearing that yours didn't run right till you took it out though, maybe I'm just chasing my tail...............
What kind of indication do you get on the display when it overheats? I'm running it in a 70 degree garage and the rad seems pretty hot when it shuts down. Maybe it's just overheating?
I ordered the fan kit for it too now.
Thanks !!!
 
Just reading through the manual I noticed something.
You measured 115psi compression pressure.

The manual calls for:
179psi minimum
206psi normal
230psi maximum
Measured at 400rpm, dry.
Maximum of 14psi difference between cylinders.
 
It's for a 2007.
I also have the 2008 supplement, and it gives 128psi as the standard.

There was a decompression spring update that went along with the cold start ecu. The numbers in the manual must reflect that. Maybe you have the newer springs already. Strange that it would be done, but not the cooling fan update. Either way, it should make little/no difference in a heated garage.
LINK TO UPDATE BULLETIN
 
I don't think the decompression springs would make any difference. Some have chnaged the ECU without the springs and have had good starting results. The only difference that the ECU would do is start the engine in fewer revolutions. Something about oil pressure build up and Yamaha being too cautious the first year. Your compression seems to be right.

So basically it runs until it gets hot and shuts down. Do you have the fan? If you do, does it come on? Did you check the fuses and relays? Any lights or codes show up when it shuts down? It could be overheating and shutting down to save itself. To check the temperature, you could use an infrared thermometer to see what temperature your getting to when it shuts down. If it's not getting to full operating temperature, it could be a faulty temp sensor. Another thing you could add is an inline temp gauge. There's a nice one at Royal Distributing that would go right into the radiator hose. P.225 at the bottom of their catalog.
 
I don't have the fan and didn't look at the display when it shut down. Too busy looking at fuel pressure and listening etc. What's the display supposed to say when it overheats? No codes for sure, I know that.
From what I understand the new decompressor springs are weaker and will make the engine develop more compression when starting with the cold start kit.
 
What's the problem with turning the engine backwards?
I can only think of 2 things
1- cam chain tensioner could slip because it's pulling on that side of the chain, and loosen off the chain
2- starter brushes could get chipped because the armature could catch the feather edges of the back side of the brushes (common on some turbine engines)
Any ideas? I know we turned this engine backwards a few times before I got the manual.... D'OH
 
there's been reports of stuff breaking turning it backwards so I would avoid that. You should try to find a fan for it. Should be plug and play as the wiring should be there for it. that was one of the issues that Yamaha put out a bulletin for and installed for free at the time. Pretty stupid of them for not including it originally.
 
Fan and cold start ECU kit are ordered and should be here next week.
I haven't turned it backwards since I got the manual but I just wanted to know what I should look at while it's apart.
I'm thinking of ordereing a temp sensor, that's one of the only things I haven't changed.
 
Sorry, there is no code for an overheat condition but you would get the temp light come on. My money is on the lack of a fan causing the overheating.
 
I agree but being a outboard motor mechanic I would assume Hydroburke knows not to run a engine much longer than a few minutes without cooling.Could the coolant not be bled leaving a air pocket and a false overheat condition?

Hydro you said the plugs were fouled when removed.Do you mean wet with fuel?If so we need to concentrate on either to much fuel(unlikely) or incorrect ignition.I am leery of the SPI coils you used.
 
Well, I'm usually used to my SRX where I warm it up a bit, put it on the stand, and let er rip a few times. These 4-strokes are not the same. I have to think of them as a car where if the fan doesn't work it overheats. I imagine I'd be able to idle it for a long time with the fan kit?
That being said, I run it long enough to let the idle come down and I don't have enough time to set the idle.
The plugs were wet before (old fuel), but lately they've been dry/normal but it still doesn't start. That's why I'm going to try the ether as a diagnostic if I have a problem after the cold start/new ECU.
I have the valve cover off right now waiting for the ECU kit.
Cannondale, have you had problems with SPI coils/products?
 
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