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FX Problem after overheat

The codes were:
11 - Cyl ID
12 - Crank Pos
13 - #1 MAP short/open
14 - #1 MAP detached hose
15 - TPS
21 - Coolant Temp
22 - Intake Air Temp
25 - #2 MAP short/open
26 - #2 MAP detached hose
30 - Oil press dropped
43 - Fuel sys voltage
65 - Knock sensor
84 - TORS
88 - Drive position/reverse position
 

I have been following this scratching my head for a while now too. What are the chances it could be a bad ground somewhere? Starts then rattles and dies, then wont go again until it cools down. It sounds stupid but I had that problem on a yz250F bike with a bad ground at the stator. It seemed like once it warmed up when it would die it would have to cool off before starting.
Anyways I am in Fort Frances. Going to pick my sled up from Dryden this weekend and will be pulling the front end off to do a oil change, and pulling the exhaust. So if you need a loner part or 2 when i get into it let me know and I can try and help you out since my sled will be in bits and we are only 3.5 hours apart
 
Hydro you brought up a very plausible reason.When the head was decked did you check to see if the cams rotated freely?Normally it is common to have to straighten the head then deck it.Is easy enough to check cams.Just remove chain and they should move with just one finger till lobe hit buckets.I am concerned about this since you said once warm it only idled at 600 rpm.Its not possible the idle set screw is just that low?
 
The engine wasn't actually idleing, it was trying to start. It didn't start.
The idle screw is almost all the way in.
The head was actually pretty straight. It had a dip in the middle. That would also cause the cam alignment to be out though.
I took the cams out for resurfacing. Moly grease on reassembly per the book.
I did not really check rotation.
What if they're stiff? what to do then?
 
Both cams rotate from bucket to bucket very easily (cold)
I was hoping we had found something..........expensive, but something..............
Keep the suggestions coming !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have seen this happen on YFZ's(cams tight)Glad thats not the issue in your case.Coils sound like next step.
 
Hydroburke said:
Gumbellion, thanks for the offer !! I may take you up on a couple coils. Maybe you could check these ones out on your sled too?
How close are you to the airport?

I am about 10 minutes from the airport. I know someone who has to drive past it to and from work each day.
I think next weekend I will pull my sled into the shop and start taking it apart. I will be ordering the stuff I need today or tomorrow so once it shows up anyways.
Do you have a list of parts you might want to do a swap on? I might have a extra ECU that works fine too if needed
Trav
 
UN-FREAKIN-BELIEVABLE !!!
Put in the new ECU and springs..............nothing, wouldn't even fire.
Tried starting fluid...........nothing.
Decided to make one coil out of the 2 that were melted to try it out, cause I'm going bananas trying to get this thing to run. One old, one new.
Had to wrap electrical tape around it to keep it together.
Bang!!! fired on the 3rd revolution.
Ran for a bit then dropped a cylinder.......the NEW coil!!!!
So, to make a long story short, do NOT buy the aftermarket SPI coils !!!!
I'll be ordering a new set tomorrow from Yamaha.
I still can't believe the cobbled together coil ran while the new one quit.
WOW..........
I'll still let you guys know how things go when I get them but I'm near 100% convinced that it's the SPI coils.
How can they put out such garbage? Did I say WOW?......................
 
Defanitly follow up when its all back together. This one was a puzzle!

Good call on the coils Cannondale!
 
I felt same way dealing with the SPI junk on the Polaris.It really sucks.Glad you got it figured out Hydro and let this be a lesson for all of us.BUY OEM ELECTRONICS!Just not even close to worth trouble trying to save $.Even used OEM is way better.
 
Well, it starts and runs like a champ now!!
Live and learn.........
I still can't believe they sell a coil that doesn't even work.
The only reason I went with those was because a coil is fairly simple and I didn't figure they'd be able to mess that up...............
 
Nowadays, with sensitive electronic controls, this can happen. Even my truck will puke if I don't use ACDelco plugs. Some things you can get away with and others you can't.

This will be a good reference on the ignition coils for sure. With the fan, it shouldn't overheat again and the new ECU will get it started quicker.
 


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