GT shock ajusters

[herff]

GT shock package on Attack has lots of places to make adjustments. Can someone explain what each does and how it works?

MONO:
1. Electronic switch shared with hand warmers
2. Threads (spring preload)
3. Black clicker knob on clevis end (pictured)

FRONT:
1. Threads (spring preload)
2. Top clicker knob (pictured)
3. Bottom clicker knob (pictured)

Thanks!

 

[njvector]

I second that question. I don't even know where to start.

 

[meklke]

I would love to have some training on this also.

 

[Long Track]

MONO:
1. Electronic switch shared with hand warmers - this is your shock compression adjustment. You can adjust this while your riding the sled. It basicaly makes your shock soft or hard.
2. Threads (spring preload) - As you said this is your spring preload. You will need to adjust this to your weight and load you carry. There are many posts on this procedure. In summary you do not want to adjust the spring free length (no weight on the sled) less than 262mm or you will get coil binding. The ideal sit in measurement is 40 to 42 mm shorter than the free lenght.
3. Black clicker knob on clevis end (pictured) - the is your rebound adjustment. Look at the manual for standard settings and play with it from there. This controls the rate a which the shock extends after you have hit a bump.

FRONT: The same principles applies for the front except the for spring measurement I gave you above.
1. Threads (spring preload)
2. Top clicker knob (pictured)
3. Bottom clicker knob (pictured)

Like I said search the forum there is tons of info on these settings for your sled.
Regards

 

[kviper]

Front,Top knob on remote reservoir=compression adj,In= stiffer, Out softer. Bottom knob= Rebound adj, In slows shock return, Out speed's recovery. Rear (handle bar adj), Running less bar's is softer, More=firmer. Black knob on shaft of rear rear shock is rebound adj or speed of return, In is slower return and out let's it return quicker. In a nut shell you want to only run your compression setting's as firm as needed to resist bottoming. For the rebound or return i go as soft or as fast of return as possible but still control kicking. Kicking is when the shock returns so fast that it will kick you up off the seat. If it is kicking start turning the rebound adj in till you are satisfied. stutter bump's at a higher speed requires fast return to be ready for the next bump. Spring's carry the load, The more preload the higher you will carry the load. There is a thread on setting ride height in here do a search fore it (It is critical for the best ride quality). kviper

 

[kviper]

MONO:
1. Electronic switch shared with hand warmers - this is your shock compression adjustment. You can adjust this while your riding the sled. It basicaly makes your shock soft or hard.
2. Threads (spring preload) - As you said this is your spring preload. You will need to adjust this to your weight and load you carry. There are many posts on this procedure. In summary you do not want to adjust the spring free length (no weight on the sled) less than 262mm or you will get coil binding. The ideal sit in measurement is 40 to 42 mm shorter than the free lenght.
3. Black clicker knob on clevis end (pictured) - the is your rebound adjustment. Look at the manual for standard settings and play with it from there. This controls the rate a which the shock extends after you have hit a bump.

FRONT: The same principles applies for the front except the for spring measurement I gave you above.
1. Threads (spring preload)
2. Top clicker knob (pictured)
3. Bottom clicker knob (pictured)

Like I said search the forum there is tons of info on these settings for your sled.
Regards

We must have been typing at the same time,LOL. kviper

 

[herff]

Thanks kviper and Long Track! I've been reading many of the posts on this site (including sit in instructions), but have never really found how all the pieces fit together. Your posts help a ton.

One last question, how do the rebound adjusters work? What do they physically change to result in quicker or slower return?

Thanks again.

 

[kviper]

They change the restriction in the valving allowing the shock to return easier or harder. The compression adj works the same way but on the compression stroke. kviper

 

[herff]

Awesome! Thanks again. This site rocks!!!

 

[bbjorklund99]

Front,Top knob on remote reservoir=compression adj,In= stiffer, Out softer. Bottom knob= Rebound adj, In slows shock return, Out speed's recovery. Rear (handle bar adj), Running less bar's is softer, More=firmer. Black knob on shaft of rear rear shock is rebound adj or speed of return, In is slower return and out let's it return quicker. In a nut shell you want to only run your compression setting's as firm as needed to resist bottoming. For the rebound or return i go as soft or as fast of return as possible but still control kicking. Kicking is when the shock returns so fast that it will kick you up off the seat. If it is kicking start turning the rebound adj in till you are satisfied. stutter bump's at a higher speed requires fast return to be ready for the next bump. Spring's carry the load, The more preload the higher you will carry the load. There is a thread on setting ride height in here do a search fore it (It is critical for the best ride quality). kviper

Kviper,

Very well put! I think that is about as good of an explaination as I have ever heard on what each adjustment does and how to proceed on getting the correct settings. I purchased my 07 Apex GT in November of last year and it took me most of last year before I finally understood what was needed in order to make this thing ride correctly. I could not even get my dealer to help me. I stumbled onto this website and was fortunate to get some input from some of the smart people on this website. It was a little overwhelming until I understood which way to turn each adjuster and what would happen by turning it one way or the other.

I don't understand why Yamaha does not do a better job of explaining this to their customers so they can properly adjust the suspension and enjoy these great sleds. They would have a much happier customer base if they would do a better job with the suspension adjustment instructions. I feel sorry for the people that ride these sled without having them adjusted correctly and don't know about the Totally Yamaha website.

 

[kviper]

There is a lot of tuneability to these sled's especially the GT's. There should be a laminated sheet that would fit in the storage area of each sled from the factory. I have friend's, I will pass this on!!! LOL, Even though they may be reading this as we speak. kviper

 

[NY AttakGT]

3. Black clicker knob on clevis end (pictured) - the is your rebound adjustment. Look at the manual for standard settings and play with it from there. This controls the rate a which the shock extends after you have hit a bump.

Ok. regarding the black knob on the upper portion (clevis end) of the Ohlins EC shock. How much adjustability (clicks) should there be? It seems on on mine I can tighten it all the way (clockwise) till it doesn't turn anymore. Then I can back it off (counter-clockwise) 7 clicks until it just seems to not click and is unthreading. Does that sound right?

--Steve (O.C.)

 

[kviper]

I don't remember for sure but i am quite sure there is at least 20 click's out from light seat. Your shock may need rebuilding, My 06 GT lost it's detent on the adjuster and i think it was because it lost gas pressure. You can also check to see if there is any oil residue on the body of the shock, Another indicator. I would talk to your dealer. kviper