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Handlebar Warmer problem solved!


boat.man said:
xtcman said:
I fixed my drawing and added a relay.
Tie right into the battery and have a fast warm up.

OK i am no EE but could you throw a diode in-line between the ecu and grip, then add switched power between the grip and diode to supplement the current to the grip? The diode would stop any feed back to the ecu.You could run both when needed and just shut off the toggle switch when your hands are to hot,,, if that is possible!

This could work. The thing that you need to design for is the voltage drop across the diodes and the voltage drop across the ECU output. A typical diode has a .6 volt drop and we can assume the ECU output has a voltage drop as well.

Diodes act as a switch that switches on when the voltage across them exceeds .6 volts. If you put a diode in series with the ECU output and none in series with the switched power the diode for the ECU would never turn on while the switched power was on. This is because the voltage across the diode would be less than .6 volts. In fact, it would be 0 or slightly negative. As a result, you would still get the error code.

You must ensure that the output from the switched power is at least .6 volts lower than the ECU diode output. You could do this by having 2 or 3 diodes in series with the switched power.

This would be a very elegant fix and I think it would work. The only down side would be the voltage drop of the diodes. while the ECU was supplying power, the voltage to the heaters would be .6 volts less. Also, while the switched power was supplying power, the voltage would be 1.2 or 1.8 volts less. This would decrease the wattage output accordingly.

Brad
 
isnt there a way to have something sense that the heaters are on full and in that case connect to full 12v as well as what ever the ecu is puting out. could it be made so that any extra from the ecu could be put back into the battery? sorry for my electric ignorance, anything more complex than a car starter and im done.

another thought is to just get ride of the ecu power and put it directely back into the battery and wire a normal knob stlye resistor to 12v.

another thought is to use the output for the hand warmers to run the heated shield some people that dont use skidoo helmets seem to need. Im going to hook up mine to run my heated handlebar storage bag to keep the ecu from triping a code and then just take power from the switch for the heaters till you guys find something better.

Yamaha, are you paying attention to this?
 
BETHEVIPER said:
isnt there a way to have something sense that the heaters are on full and in that case connect to full 12v

That's what I had hoped. Problem is, with the heaters set on full, they actually run at 30% at idle so there's no way to tell that they are set on full.

I took the opposite approach. Off is always off so I detect when they are off. when I want them on full, I turn them off. When I turn them back on, they work normally again. It took some home brew electronics to pull it off which is not everyone's cup of tea but if you like to dabble or know someone who does, the schematic is posted in this thread somewhere.

Brad
 
tomanytoyz said:
do you guys just set there with your hands on the bars not moving much.when i get aggresive my hands burn up!

Totally agree with you tomanytoyz, but wouldnt it be nice if after you unload and its 2 degrees F if the grips actually warmed your hands until you are ready to get aggressive?
 
Exactly!!!!

Because I have to start out with cold bars it takes quite a bit of "aggressive driving" before my hands start to warm up. I would much rather start hot and then have to turn them down later.
 
I didnt' read the entire 13 pages of this tread, but I was wondering what the piggyback harness does exactly for the updated '06 bars. I rode on christmas day and didn't even go fast that often and my hands were very cold. I have the updated bars and piggyback harness. I filled the bars with expanding foam and unless I was really on the throttle, my hands were very cold. The problem with that is the wind chill is also much greater at higher throttle. Do we know exactly what makes the original stock bars work so much better with the piggyback harness, but not the updated bars? We couldn't just change the resistance in that piggyback harness to work better with the updated bars?
 
The update harness when installed on an '06 Apex puts the grip elements in parallel rather than in series. This reduces the total resistance which consequently increases the current draw (heat).

The problem is that you also installed the '07 bars which are designed for the parallel circuit and the end result is not much better than what you had before the update.

The "hot fix" is to put the original '06 bars back on while still using the '07 wiring harness. With this set-up you will never need to go past half way on your controls. At 100% you will not even be able to hold onto them without burning your hands.
 
Wind Chill

Wind Chill! After fighting this issue with gloves, jacket and big windshield I broke down and bought some skidoo gauntlets. WOW MY HANDS ARE HOT!!! Even on the lowest setting they were on fire! They take some getting use to and look ugly but they work! ;)!
 
I have the PowerMadd gauntlets that fit over my PowerMadd hand guards. I only use them when it is below zero and they sure do work great at those temperatures.
 
Blue Dave said:
I have the PowerMadd gauntlets that fit over my PowerMadd hand guards. I only use them when it is below zero and they sure do work great at those temperatures.

I just bought a set to, so you say they work good...I havn't had a chance to try mine yet, the other thing where do you store them on your sled they're kind of bulky!
 
I store the PowerMadd gauntlets in the nose cone area of my Apex when I am not using them.
 
I also purchased the Doo gauntlets and they work great.

I store them in the Yamaha nose cone bag I installed in my Vector.
 


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