mr rxl
Veteran
Dave was wondering what the warmers load was? The wamers are 8 ohms each and draw 1.7 amps.
I pulgged and 8 ohm resistor into each of the 2 plugs that come from the ECM. This solved the check eng light in case I accidently turned on the bar warmers with the factory control.
I pulgged and 8 ohm resistor into each of the 2 plugs that come from the ECM. This solved the check eng light in case I accidently turned on the bar warmers with the factory control.
maverick
Extreme
So what's the conclusion?
For the average guy that has cold hands and despartely wants to fix this problem, what is the final answer? What is the fix? I could spend a few hours going through 11 pages of posts and be much smarter, but it might be a lot quicker for someone (smarter than me) to boil all these posts down for me so I can warm my hands up.
Thanks,
Max
P.S. It's snowing here in Grand Lake!!!!
For the average guy that has cold hands and despartely wants to fix this problem, what is the final answer? What is the fix? I could spend a few hours going through 11 pages of posts and be much smarter, but it might be a lot quicker for someone (smarter than me) to boil all these posts down for me so I can warm my hands up.
Thanks,
Max
P.S. It's snowing here in Grand Lake!!!!
Bradford
Expert
Re: So what's the conclusion?
I think mr rx1 has the simplest fix. Wire in a switch to feed full time power to the heaters (see the first post of this thread)
Another theory is wiring a capacitor in parallel with the heaters. I'm going to test the effectiveness of this once I'm sure it won't cause any ill effects.
Here's my test results of wiring the heaters direct. Keep in mind that either fix listed above won't change the heater output when the motor RPM is above 4000~4500 RPM but they will make a difference in pre-heating the bars while warming up your sled
Test 1: Stock, 5 minute test @ 1100 RPM:
Start @ 58F
End @ 82F
Test 2: Constant 12V (14 V actually), 5 minute test @ 1100 RPM:
Start @ 58F
End @ 138F
Brad
maverick said:For the average guy that has cold hands and despartely wants to fix this problem, what is the final answer? What is the fix? I could spend a few hours going through 11 pages of posts and be much smarter, but it might be a lot quicker for someone (smarter than me) to boil all these posts down for me so I can warm my hands up.
Thanks,
Max
P.S. It's snowing here in Grand Lake!!!!
I think mr rx1 has the simplest fix. Wire in a switch to feed full time power to the heaters (see the first post of this thread)
Another theory is wiring a capacitor in parallel with the heaters. I'm going to test the effectiveness of this once I'm sure it won't cause any ill effects.
Here's my test results of wiring the heaters direct. Keep in mind that either fix listed above won't change the heater output when the motor RPM is above 4000~4500 RPM but they will make a difference in pre-heating the bars while warming up your sled
Test 1: Stock, 5 minute test @ 1100 RPM:
Start @ 58F
End @ 82F
Test 2: Constant 12V (14 V actually), 5 minute test @ 1100 RPM:
Start @ 58F
End @ 138F
Brad
ralger
Pro
I plan to implement Blue Dave's idea. I have a marine grade illuminated (blue, of course) DPDT switch on order that will work very well. My local Radio Shack only had a 10 ohm resistor (1 Watt); will that work? Also, anyone now where the best place to splice into the grip "hot" (Yellow/Red wire) prior to splitting to the right/left grips?
Rockmeister
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You don't need or want that low a resistance.
More like 100 ohms.
The ECU just checks that SOMETHING is connected, it doesn't care about the specific resistance.
The lower the resistance, the more power you waste out of your magneto, it is pretty heavily loaded already.
I will try to verify what resistance will work well today yet.
Edit: Ran a bunch of tests on the ECU today to determine a dummy load resistance that will not cause an error code.
You need a 15 ohm 20 watt resistor.
Worst case(at 16v), this value of resistor will need to dissipate 17 watts.
Unfortunately, anything above 18 ohms would not always work.
More like 100 ohms.
The ECU just checks that SOMETHING is connected, it doesn't care about the specific resistance.
The lower the resistance, the more power you waste out of your magneto, it is pretty heavily loaded already.
I will try to verify what resistance will work well today yet.
Edit: Ran a bunch of tests on the ECU today to determine a dummy load resistance that will not cause an error code.
You need a 15 ohm 20 watt resistor.
Worst case(at 16v), this value of resistor will need to dissipate 17 watts.
Unfortunately, anything above 18 ohms would not always work.
Re: So what's the conclusion?
gauntlets,it will take a whole 30 seconds to install,and youre hands will boilmaverick said:For the average guy that has cold hands and despartely wants to fix this problem, what is the final answer? What is the fix? I could spend a few hours going through 11 pages of posts and be much smarter, but it might be a lot quicker for someone (smarter than me) to boil all these posts down for me so I can warm my hands up.
Thanks,
Max
P.S. It's snowing here in Grand Lake!!!!
kinger
VIP Member
I agree the gauntlets are the best for heat, but they are borderline dangerous, I have had the throttle stick a little longer then I want because my movement was inhibited and also not been able to reach the brake. They are nice but would rather have the grips work good.
Blue Dave
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xtcman,
Your schematic is exactly what I was thinking. Although you do not show it, obviously the other side of the resistor is grounded.
However I agree with rockmeister that we should use the highest ohm value resistor that will still provide enough of a load for the ECU.
Now we just need to determine what that maximum possible resistance value is.
Your schematic is exactly what I was thinking. Although you do not show it, obviously the other side of the resistor is grounded.
However I agree with rockmeister that we should use the highest ohm value resistor that will still provide enough of a load for the ECU.
Now we just need to determine what that maximum possible resistance value is.
ralger
Pro
Keep in mind that the original intent of the 8 ohm resistor was only to match the factory resistance to prevent an error code in case a guy forgets to turn the stock warmers "off" prior to switching to the 12V source. As long as the stock warmers are shut off, it doesn't matter what the resistance is.
However, if a higher resistance works, I'm all for it. Not having to shut "off" the stock warmers is one less thing to remember.
However, if a higher resistance works, I'm all for it. Not having to shut "off" the stock warmers is one less thing to remember.
ralger
Pro
Anyone know at what point in the wireing the grips are wired in parallel?
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Blue Dave
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Ralger,
I received your PM. I have not had time to actually look at the sled yet but my wiring diagram shows the yellow/red wire from the ECU going to both grips so I would think that you would have to find where the single yellow wire connects to both grips to switch the circuit before the split.
I do not want to have to worry about turning the stock controls off before flipping the "override" switch so that is why the DPDT switch and resistor is needed. The only question is how high of a resistance can be used to avoid the fault code. The higher the better for limiting the "dummy" current draw.
xtcman,
I am wondering if a relay is really needed. I would think that a factory switched & fused source could be found that could supply the grips in the "override" mode.
I received your PM. I have not had time to actually look at the sled yet but my wiring diagram shows the yellow/red wire from the ECU going to both grips so I would think that you would have to find where the single yellow wire connects to both grips to switch the circuit before the split.
I do not want to have to worry about turning the stock controls off before flipping the "override" switch so that is why the DPDT switch and resistor is needed. The only question is how high of a resistance can be used to avoid the fault code. The higher the better for limiting the "dummy" current draw.
xtcman,
I am wondering if a relay is really needed. I would think that a factory switched & fused source could be found that could supply the grips in the "override" mode.
ralger
Pro
Blue Dave, I have spent quite a while looking for the split, but haven't found it yet. I may end up splicing in right out of the ECU; it means longer wire runs but without cutting open all of the wire jackets, I don't think finding the exact place where they split is possible.
As far as the relay, on my sled, there is an empty slot in the fuse box for the optional DC plug, I plan on coming right off of that. It only has a "hot" side of the fuse wired, so I plan to just come off of the hot, which is switched, and put in an inline fuse. Shouldn't need a relay.
As far as the relay, on my sled, there is an empty slot in the fuse box for the optional DC plug, I plan on coming right off of that. It only has a "hot" side of the fuse wired, so I plan to just come off of the hot, which is switched, and put in an inline fuse. Shouldn't need a relay.
