supraturbo
Newbie
are you running mcx megasquirt based piggyback? or a standalone? pretty sure you are flooding your spark plugs because of a bad mapping at idle or stepper motor bad setup.
I had this same problem with my turbo mustang. Car would feel like it was flooded after sitting 15min. It turned out to be a bad plug. These were brand new plugs. It took me weeks to find it because the plugs were new, I never thought that was the problem. I tried coil packs, checking for leaky injectors, fuel pressure, maps, you name it I tried it. Changed the plugs and it solved the problem.
Jona$
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have switched all but 2 shims to make it correct.
also there was no fault on intern injectors since been tested at company.
External mcx injectors cant be either since it did the same without the intercooler "external sits in intercooler"
checked sparkplugs and couldnt see any special.
Havent had chance to try it out yet but any more i should check.
My money is on the plugs since the problem came after summerstorage?
also there was no fault on intern injectors since been tested at company.
External mcx injectors cant be either since it did the same without the intercooler "external sits in intercooler"
checked sparkplugs and couldnt see any special.
Havent had chance to try it out yet but any more i should check.
My money is on the plugs since the problem came after summerstorage?
My plugs looked fine when I checked them, I was just running out of things to try.
Jona$
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I am on that line to guardrail since it came after storage and runs good at all other points.
Some has commented the tps so gonna give it another check with the multimeter, i checked it thrugh diagnostic and it was perfect then.
To supraturbo
A bad map, no dont believe so, been running the same 3 seasons no problem.
piggyback megasquirt or standalone? Not sure what you mean but believe its stanadlone since mcx has a own ecu for the external injectors.
Some has commented the tps so gonna give it another check with the multimeter, i checked it thrugh diagnostic and it was perfect then.
To supraturbo
A bad map, no dont believe so, been running the same 3 seasons no problem.
piggyback megasquirt or standalone? Not sure what you mean but believe its stanadlone since mcx has a own ecu for the external injectors.
rxrider
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Forget the mcx injectors they're probably OK.
MCX injectors start to feed fuel at 3 lbs of boost.
What is your C0 set at? All the sleds I have done I've set back to -10 on all cylinders. It runs way rich set at stock position which is 0. Idle is poor and it sometimes stalls set at 0.
Do you have access to a MCX Display unit and an Oxygene sensor, it will be your engine polygraph telling you the truth about your problems
jan-o
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MCX injectors start to feed fuel at 3 lbs of boost.
What is your C0 set at? All the sleds I have done I've set back to -10 on all cylinders. It runs way rich set at stock position which is 0. Idle is poor and it sometimes stalls set at 0.
Do you have access to a MCX Display unit and an Oxygene sensor, it will be your engine polygraph telling you the truth about your problems
jan-o
rxrider
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I believe i drove with -10 and i use aem gauge for wideband and biltema digital for boost and watertemp, also have one for fuelpressure.
when starting my sled after coldstorage it went 12.4-12.9 warmup and 13-13.2 when idling sits down on 40c
maybe diffrent numbers due to first start and old gas.
It sure aint the mcx injectors , as i said it was still there without the intercooler.
my money is on the plugs,the tpv showed perfect numbers with diagnostic and schimsed valves.
the problem started after last years storage, thats why i believe in electronic and not mechanical
but why do people only set co and not the air on the knob on fuelrack + turn the screw so carburators are a bit open without stretching wire.
and what is thar with signals fuelbox through yellow tps-wire.
when starting my sled after coldstorage it went 12.4-12.9 warmup and 13-13.2 when idling sits down on 40c
maybe diffrent numbers due to first start and old gas.
It sure aint the mcx injectors , as i said it was still there without the intercooler.
my money is on the plugs,the tpv showed perfect numbers with diagnostic and schimsed valves.
the problem started after last years storage, thats why i believe in electronic and not mechanical
but why do people only set co and not the air on the knob on fuelrack + turn the screw so carburators are a bit open without stretching wire.
and what is thar with signals fuelbox through yellow tps-wire.
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wow what a difference just by looking and pressing it with the fingers
mcx to the left and thistledoo on the right
mcx to the left and thistledoo on the right
Jona$
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i got this when talking on sn*west
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/show ... p?t=325099
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/show ... p?t=325099
rxrider
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Do not touch the 4 small screws on top of the fuel rail, the Service Manual states this. They're set at the factory never to be adjusted unless you have the proper equipment for it.
I'm with you on mechanical.
The plugs, change them.
A corroded valve not sealing properly, will go away as the corrosion wears off.
The Idle screw I assume?
If your idle is low or high you adjust the idle using this knob.
On 2011 and newer you cannot adjust idle speed, it's automatically adjusted by the computer.
The yellow wire is the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor signal for the MCX computer. The MCX computer uses the TPS-signal to calculate fuel delivery.
I'm with you on mechanical.
The plugs, change them.
A corroded valve not sealing properly, will go away as the corrosion wears off.
The Idle screw I assume?
If your idle is low or high you adjust the idle using this knob.
On 2011 and newer you cannot adjust idle speed, it's automatically adjusted by the computer.
The yellow wire is the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor signal for the MCX computer. The MCX computer uses the TPS-signal to calculate fuel delivery.
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Plugs been changed and so on, just wanna go through all to make it good.
But what about turning the screw so the throttles stay a little open even as close throttle?
and i understood that much about the yellow wire, but heard something of fuelbox sending signals back, messing up the tps and fooling the ecu that its full throttle but its really closed ant then floods.
But i dont believe in that but wanna take a look if i can.
But as said it only happens when engine has been running for a while and if you shut it off and try to start in 20min it will be hard to start and get really worse if i wait like 40min, then i need to hold in the throttle and it stumbles to life at like 2cyl, and cleans out in a few seconds back to all 4.
works like a charm in all other situations, therefore my thought on screw in a bit to leave the throttles open slightly even at closed, but that maybe will #*$&@ up it more?
But what about turning the screw so the throttles stay a little open even as close throttle?
and i understood that much about the yellow wire, but heard something of fuelbox sending signals back, messing up the tps and fooling the ecu that its full throttle but its really closed ant then floods.
But i dont believe in that but wanna take a look if i can.
But as said it only happens when engine has been running for a while and if you shut it off and try to start in 20min it will be hard to start and get really worse if i wait like 40min, then i need to hold in the throttle and it stumbles to life at like 2cyl, and cleans out in a few seconds back to all 4.
works like a charm in all other situations, therefore my thought on screw in a bit to leave the throttles open slightly even at closed, but that maybe will #*$&@ up it more?
rxrider
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Cut the wire, if it helps leave it unplugged. If not connect the wire back on.
I've been working on a sled that did what your sled does. The owner decided to put in Carrillo rods, JE Pistons, valve clearance and cam angles were adjusted to perfection. Plugs were changed. When we reassembled the sled the problem was gone. We did not figure what caused the problem and it has run flawlessly ever since. This suggest it was an electrical problem in that sled, and it probably is the same with your sled.
Do you have another sled your could switch components with? It even may be a fault somewhere in the wireing harness....
I've been working on a sled that did what your sled does. The owner decided to put in Carrillo rods, JE Pistons, valve clearance and cam angles were adjusted to perfection. Plugs were changed. When we reassembled the sled the problem was gone. We did not figure what caused the problem and it has run flawlessly ever since. This suggest it was an electrical problem in that sled, and it probably is the same with your sled.
Do you have another sled your could switch components with? It even may be a fault somewhere in the wireing harness....
DooAssassin
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Could it be the EFI choke system giving too much fuel on start up. Does anyone know how to adjust the box with the screws on top of the throttle bodies? Mine have been tampered with. The part that adjusts the idle/start up rpm. I am having the same issue and it didn't matter what motor I had in the sled, even with my new motor that has JE,Carillio,Cam timing. Still living with it. Maybe we have the same issue.
rxrider
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That is the problem when adjusting the 4 screws....
The solution, find a good running sled, seat the 4 screws while counting the revolutions, take notes.
This may not work as all sleds are a bit different.
One more idea. Have you guys ever syncronized the throttle bodies?
The solution, find a good running sled, seat the 4 screws while counting the revolutions, take notes.
This may not work as all sleds are a bit different.
One more idea. Have you guys ever syncronized the throttle bodies?
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well i know 4sure that i havent touched the 4 screws.
I have touched the knob on the fuelrack, but that one only calibrate idle rpm?
Nope i havent syncronized my throttles ever, thougt about it but feel it works fine as it is, any hows?
The thing i dont get is how can you cut the yellow wire from tps if it sends signals to the ecu.
I mean if you can cut it and leave it like that.. then why is it really there? Im really curious, just dont really get it
I have touched the knob on the fuelrack, but that one only calibrate idle rpm?
Nope i havent syncronized my throttles ever, thougt about it but feel it works fine as it is, any hows?
The thing i dont get is how can you cut the yellow wire from tps if it sends signals to the ecu.
I mean if you can cut it and leave it like that.. then why is it really there? Im really curious, just dont really get it
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