nytro-king
Extreme
if you cut the yelow wire. you wouldnt get signal to the mcx boks, right?.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
It's there for the reason I described. Someone suggested there may be a problem with the way it's working. I have never encoutered any problem caused by the yellow wire and it's operation.
Leave it alone, it's probably not your problem.
It's done the same way and with the same equipment as your would on a carbed sled, no difference as both has throttle bodies and butterflies to control the amount of air going in.
It's all in rxrider turbo garage thread in the 4stroke garage section.
Leave it alone, it's probably not your problem.
It's done the same way and with the same equipment as your would on a carbed sled, no difference as both has throttle bodies and butterflies to control the amount of air going in.
It's all in rxrider turbo garage thread in the 4stroke garage section.
Jona$
Master
Yeah gonna leave the yellow one alone, but as backup if it happens, but cutting it, wouldnt that take the external injectors out and the sled dont working properly on the way home?
as for carbtune 2 i just ordered it, but got some question on your readings, its all clear for me but why is it nr2 shows 14, aswell the rest untill you synched the nr4.. after that everyone reads 16.
as for carbtune 2 i just ordered it, but got some question on your readings, its all clear for me but why is it nr2 shows 14, aswell the rest untill you synched the nr4.. after that everyone reads 16.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
They all affect each other, you will have to do it over and over again until they're equal, typically you may spend 30 or more minutes to get it perfect.
Jona$
Master
So Went for first ride since building and all seams super except for it to seam to be like before with the starting but à slight better, what to try? Setting carbs à bit Open , like 20 in diagnos? And if Cutting yellow wire will that kill external injectors or someone have à idea what next
Jona$
Master
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
How is cold starting? Normal?
Warm starting is still not good.... have you insulated the fuel lines, they may get very hot close to motor parts. Hot fuel makes your sled hard to start.
I have insulated the fuel lines on my RX-1 heavily, even tho I sometimes experience the same problem as you.
Warm starting is still not good.... have you insulated the fuel lines, they may get very hot close to motor parts. Hot fuel makes your sled hard to start.
I have insulated the fuel lines on my RX-1 heavily, even tho I sometimes experience the same problem as you.
Jona$
Master
Yes it start good when cold, havent isolated the lines,but i have been running fine with that setting for years.
DooAssassin
Expert
Well I fixed my rich starting. I pulled out 30# on my digital display. There is a place in there that you can adjust the fueling. Maybe you should try this too. My sled is alot more responsive also from idle to low rpm.
Jona$
Master
read wrong.
Jona$
Master
well had a longer run today and recorded some with gopro 2 and its ripping like a wild one, BUT when letting sit for a while it needs a few extra turns and stumbles to life.
And if standing for like 40min or longre i need to apply throttle to make it come to life " if i dont i can turn the key 4ever" and then it stumbles to life like on 2 cyl and i need to hold the throttle till it wakes up the rest and its fine.
I noticed when hauling home on a open trailer wich took like 40-50min, when i tried to start it i needed to apply throttle to get it to start, even tho it was COLD.
So it seems it doesnt matter if it is cold or warm, its more of a time thing!
wtf is wrong?
Fuelines cant it be, been running the same for several seasons with the same and it gave the samt symptoms when been hauled home on a open trailer, you can bet the fuellines where cold then!
Have checked all injectors
*changed plugs
*the tps show the exact numbers in diagnos. Havent changed a thing that can made this mess.
Isnt there anyone in Sweden that can fix this, because im tired as hell and ready to throw in the glove and go over to the dark side.
SAVE ME!!!
I give 50$ To the one that can solve my problem on the forum.
up to 600$ if checking the sled and solve it.
And if standing for like 40min or longre i need to apply throttle to make it come to life " if i dont i can turn the key 4ever" and then it stumbles to life like on 2 cyl and i need to hold the throttle till it wakes up the rest and its fine.
I noticed when hauling home on a open trailer wich took like 40-50min, when i tried to start it i needed to apply throttle to get it to start, even tho it was COLD.
So it seems it doesnt matter if it is cold or warm, its more of a time thing!
wtf is wrong?
Fuelines cant it be, been running the same for several seasons with the same and it gave the samt symptoms when been hauled home on a open trailer, you can bet the fuellines where cold then!
Have checked all injectors
*changed plugs
*the tps show the exact numbers in diagnos. Havent changed a thing that can made this mess.
Isnt there anyone in Sweden that can fix this, because im tired as hell and ready to throw in the glove and go over to the dark side.
SAVE ME!!!
I give 50$ To the one that can solve my problem on the forum.
up to 600$ if checking the sled and solve it.
Jona$
Master
i Dont get what you mean by #30 in diagnos, all i now is co but that is for idle and 1/8throttle.
and faulty codes 30 i can only find oil pressure dropped or ignition coil 1
and faulty codes 30 i can only find oil pressure dropped or ignition coil 1
He means try to adjust your CO setting to -30 on each cylinder and see if it helps cure your problem.
Jona$
Master
thats what i thought, just thought -30 seemed so much. But does that have to do with startup and not only idle & 1/8 throttle.
gonna make an extension for the yellow tps-wire so i can disconnect and film it with go pro.
gonna make an extension for the yellow tps-wire so i can disconnect and film it with go pro.
Worth a try to see if it helps!
You are not planing to test ride the sled under boost with the yellow wire connection to the mcx fuel box removed? If so you will have an expensive ride that will end with engine failure - mcx will to deliver fuel correct with wires removed/disconnected.
Are all your vacum lines free of moisture? And do you have the the OEM baro sensor pressurized under boost? If so make sure it replaced high so vacum hose drains the moisture and does not collect water and freezes.
You are not planing to test ride the sled under boost with the yellow wire connection to the mcx fuel box removed? If so you will have an expensive ride that will end with engine failure - mcx will to deliver fuel correct with wires removed/disconnected.
Are all your vacum lines free of moisture? And do you have the the OEM baro sensor pressurized under boost? If so make sure it replaced high so vacum hose drains the moisture and does not collect water and freezes.
