Jona$
Master
all vacuumlines are free, it can happen in a dry warm garage or in a summer startup. Nope i havent pressurized Baro sensor since i dont runt at those hights and its worked flawless.
Gonna try putting the co at -30 and go from there, the thing is i have it at -10 now and it did nothing and when letting go of the throttle sometimes it goes down to 13, so really fat.
Gonna try putting the co at -30 and go from there, the thing is i have it at -10 now and it did nothing and when letting go of the throttle sometimes it goes down to 13, so really fat.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Is there a check valve in front of the Yamaha BARO sensor?
It may be installed the wrong way, the BARO sensor don't wanna see pressure, only vacuum, with the valve the wrong way the BARO sensor will not see vacuum at all, that will mess up the idle performance.
It may be installed the wrong way, the BARO sensor don't wanna see pressure, only vacuum, with the valve the wrong way the BARO sensor will not see vacuum at all, that will mess up the idle performance.
Jona$
Master
In front of? my baro sensor is located higher then the BOV and not pressurized since i dont ride 1500m or higher.
I made a adjustment to the drivetrain today since my reverse didnt wanna lock in and at same time set CO at -30 as skidooassin did and it gives better respons over idle but give real high numbers on idle 13.8-14 which it should when setting it so low, curious how it will do to the startups.
another on is that i allways loose around 4-6dl coolant, at least is that what i need to refill to see it filling up the resovair? but that has been going on for years and only that amount. to small container maybee when pressurized?
I made a adjustment to the drivetrain today since my reverse didnt wanna lock in and at same time set CO at -30 as skidooassin did and it gives better respons over idle but give real high numbers on idle 13.8-14 which it should when setting it so low, curious how it will do to the startups.
another on is that i allways loose around 4-6dl coolant, at least is that what i need to refill to see it filling up the resovair? but that has been going on for years and only that amount. to small container maybee when pressurized?
Jona$
Master
Made a testrun , the better sound is made by polarpro external mic.
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Did the -30 CO-settings solve your starting issues?
13-14 afr @ idle is not lean. You are not under boost so that is no problem.
Here is from Wikipedia on AFR:
A stoichiometric mixture is the working point that modern engine management systems employing fuel injection attempt to achieve in light load cruise situations. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air–fuel mixture is approximately 14.7; i.e. for every one gram of fuel, 14.7 grams of air are required (the fuel oxydation reaction is: 25/2 O2 + C8H18 -> 8 CO2 + 9 H2O). Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture; any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture – given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane).
13-14 afr @ idle is not lean. You are not under boost so that is no problem.
Here is from Wikipedia on AFR:
A stoichiometric mixture is the working point that modern engine management systems employing fuel injection attempt to achieve in light load cruise situations. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air–fuel mixture is approximately 14.7; i.e. for every one gram of fuel, 14.7 grams of air are required (the fuel oxydation reaction is: 25/2 O2 + C8H18 -> 8 CO2 + 9 H2O). Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture; any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture – given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane).
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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What fuel are you running?
Higher octane will make it harder to start.
What compression do you run?
Lower compression will make it harder to start.
Higher octane will make it harder to start.
What compression do you run?
Lower compression will make it harder to start.
Jona$
Master
No that run was from before trying out the CO -30 for real.
As for rxrider fuel are usually 90oct compression i dont remember but state same as before, have not touched any mechanical before this problem came up and have run fine before.
any on the coolant?
gonna give the -30 a try now under new year and if that fails clip the yellow wire to the mcx efi and not the one from the tps i resum, because you wanna have the signal to orginal injectors connected.
As you can see it runs fine in the video.
only have 2 thins bothering me
1.hard started as described.
2.allways presses out 4-6dl if filled. but allways had it and it stops there.
As for rxrider fuel are usually 90oct compression i dont remember but state same as before, have not touched any mechanical before this problem came up and have run fine before.
any on the coolant?
gonna give the -30 a try now under new year and if that fails clip the yellow wire to the mcx efi and not the one from the tps i resum, because you wanna have the signal to orginal injectors connected.
As you can see it runs fine in the video.
only have 2 thins bothering me
1.hard started as described.
2.allways presses out 4-6dl if filled. but allways had it and it stops there.
Do you have a leaking headshim?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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The coolant will blow out until a certain level. Does it in my RX as well, cold coolant level is down in the bottom of the tank. Warm it's up on top. If I add any coolant, the next ride it's back down. As long as it stays at that level I'm happy with it. Seems like the coolant reservoir tank is a bit too small in a boosted application.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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A leaking head shim will blow compression gases into the coolant and you will blow out a lot. You may also blow oil into the coolant, it will show as a foam floating on top of the coolant. And the coolant will tent to go slightly darker in color.
I have a sled in my garage with that problem right now. Needs new headshim and gaskets.
I have a sled in my garage with that problem right now. Needs new headshim and gaskets.
Jona$
Master
Man im glad there are guys like you out there.
Well no darker or any like that, but small chunks of hard bits that looks like cork? had it for a long time, even before the hardstaring begin. cant find any in the oil or see something missing.
As for the -30 the problem is still there but the little i ran it was more easy to start but i put it back at -10 since i thought hesitated? at wot.
But what is wrong when it pops one time sometimes under full wot from rolling slowly.
Wondering if leaving it to mcx one guru Erik will do the trick.
I have spent som many hours with this but we all have a end line somewhere and i can see mine real close now.
Well no darker or any like that, but small chunks of hard bits that looks like cork? had it for a long time, even before the hardstaring begin. cant find any in the oil or see something missing.
As for the -30 the problem is still there but the little i ran it was more easy to start but i put it back at -10 since i thought hesitated? at wot.
But what is wrong when it pops one time sometimes under full wot from rolling slowly.
Wondering if leaving it to mcx one guru Erik will do the trick.
I have spent som many hours with this but we all have a end line somewhere and i can see mine real close now.
mbarryracing
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I have been pondering your quandry and I am now leaning towards an electrical issue...
The reason for that is because from past experience I know that some electrical issues are misleading with the same symptoms as fuel issues.
The key point to home-in on is you have issues after it has been warmed up, not cold, or more importantly electrical components are heat soaked.
When electrical parts get warm (copper wires), the electrical ohm resistance also rises which can cause weak signals to deteriorate further to the point of poor running. Then when they cool back down and the ohm resistance goes back down they can function fine again.
I would start to look at maybe the stator or pickup trigger coil... Since it's flooding out it might not be because of too much fuel but rather might be because the spark is too weak or not firing adaquately enough to light the fuel during cranking after it's warm from running, however the faster RPM's when it's actually running is producing enough signal for triggering the coils or injectors.
Start with checking them with a multi-meter at room temperature and seeing where they fall against the Yamaha specifications.
The reason for that is because from past experience I know that some electrical issues are misleading with the same symptoms as fuel issues.
The key point to home-in on is you have issues after it has been warmed up, not cold, or more importantly electrical components are heat soaked.
When electrical parts get warm (copper wires), the electrical ohm resistance also rises which can cause weak signals to deteriorate further to the point of poor running. Then when they cool back down and the ohm resistance goes back down they can function fine again.
I would start to look at maybe the stator or pickup trigger coil... Since it's flooding out it might not be because of too much fuel but rather might be because the spark is too weak or not firing adaquately enough to light the fuel during cranking after it's warm from running, however the faster RPM's when it's actually running is producing enough signal for triggering the coils or injectors.
Start with checking them with a multi-meter at room temperature and seeing where they fall against the Yamaha specifications.
To follow up Mbarryracing thoughts - have you ever had issues with the mcx oil return pump - broken pins etc that has cause harm to the stator etc. Or harmed the stator or pick up when you had the stator cover of to install the crank shaft bolt for the mcx oil retur pump? Food for thought ;-)
Taking your sled to MCX would be a smart move if can not figure it out by yourself ;-)
Taking your sled to MCX would be a smart move if can not figure it out by yourself ;-)
Jona$
Master
I agree mbarryracing but have sometime seen it do this cold, but have leaned at electrical since day one but tried all beside at the way.
how do i messure the stator and not sure what you mean with trigger pickup coil and how to messure that to.
To TT that have not happend, checked the pin and its fine and have allways been, was along time ago since i did convert and it ran fine first 2 season.
Gonna tear down tommor and go thru as much wiring as possible, remeber that one time when going thru a diffrent thing with multimeter i got a closed circet frome the + on the sled for jumpstart and intercooler or any part that has ground, took alll wiring from + apart that i had put on and it did nothing, did the same with wiring to ignition,display and 12v outlet, Noting so put it together and it was fine, let that mystery be that time.
so to do list.
messure:
*stator Any hows?
*pickup coil trigger? Any hows
*Go thru as much wiring as possible and if its still there try to cut the yellow wire from mcx ecu and not the main one frome tps.
any missing?
how do i messure the stator and not sure what you mean with trigger pickup coil and how to messure that to.
To TT that have not happend, checked the pin and its fine and have allways been, was along time ago since i did convert and it ran fine first 2 season.
Gonna tear down tommor and go thru as much wiring as possible, remeber that one time when going thru a diffrent thing with multimeter i got a closed circet frome the + on the sled for jumpstart and intercooler or any part that has ground, took alll wiring from + apart that i had put on and it did nothing, did the same with wiring to ignition,display and 12v outlet, Noting so put it together and it was fine, let that mystery be that time.
so to do list.
messure:
*stator Any hows?
*pickup coil trigger? Any hows
*Go thru as much wiring as possible and if its still there try to cut the yellow wire from mcx ecu and not the main one frome tps.
any missing?
mbarryracing
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vmax4ever,
I dont have my shop manual in front of me, but did you try searching the Technical Pages section on the home page? Or under the Apex General Talk forum?
Surely questions regarding stator and pickup coil resistance checks have been answered numerous times... Do a generic search for the term STATOR, you'll be surprised how many threads pop up.
Just remember the RX1 and the Apex stators are different so will have different spec's...
I dont have my shop manual in front of me, but did you try searching the Technical Pages section on the home page? Or under the Apex General Talk forum?
Surely questions regarding stator and pickup coil resistance checks have been answered numerous times... Do a generic search for the term STATOR, you'll be surprised how many threads pop up.
Just remember the RX1 and the Apex stators are different so will have different spec's...
