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Hauck Get-er dun kit tested

Mike

With that new track, you are finding out how the midwest guys have been hooking by use of studs in lower snow conditions than you get. Youve never liked that white spring, but my money is on running the white at 60 degrees will cure your overshift problem. Good luck bud and let us know how it goes.
 

tried 8dn -00 & 8dn-01. Gonna try the ultimax soon also. it,s gonna drop me 300ish rpm,s but it does not slip & a buds apex likes it. This freeride has unreal traction. I had the 136 version on my turbo & it hooked hard & it really launches this nytro. Just sold my 2 white springs...arg. Gonna try the alternative with a shallower seondary & more primary weight.
 
Turk said:
think this is because the 1.5 free ride track hooks up so hard I can,t stop rpm,s from dropping & I have gone thru a dozen helix & spring combo,s to try to stop this.

.

It could be a lot of things - I don't have one to test - don't forget the MXZX has about 1.7" track with a 2/ and it has no problem diggin holes.

Anxious to read what you find.
 
I got stuff working about 95% today. I had a Bender 44/34 helix(actuallyshifts like a 46/36)I bolted it in with the silver at 80. I now come out of the hole at about 8400; drop down to 8-8300 rpm & climb to 8750. The funny thing is in 1000' I hit the exact same speed at 8750 rpm as i did at 8350 rpm. At least i am very very close & stayed out of the primary.
 
Turk said:
I hit the exact same speed at 8750 rpm as i did at 8350 rpm. .

First - I don’t have one to test – but I like to read about it from someone with experience.

So – let’s think about what you said – for a hint.

Same speed at 8300 and 8750 at 1000’

Let’s assume the belt ends up in same position (height on the primary) for both runs.

Could this mean that – the belt is slipping on the 8750 run? So – you would only be getting the same rpm from the secondary that you got at 8300?

Do you have anything to check the sheave temperature after a run?

It sounds like (only from what I read) it is up shifting too fast in your lower range and the power is not there to sustain that. So the engine is bogged back down till it finds power again.

What do you think?
 
I was running a shallower helix with the same secondary pre-tension so if anything I am gripping the belt better & upshifting is slower at the higher rpm set up.I check the shives after all my runs because i leave the side panel off. The hp at 83 vs 8700 is allmost identical & torque is also close. Running 8700 for a longer distance would more then likely give higher top speed then running 8300 but all I had was just over 1000' Clutches were both cool & the primary in both cases was 1/8" from the top.
 
got mine close to where i want it

I got mine close to where i want it...... gonna add some more weight to heal of the weight and take all the weight off the tip...... i am at about 8100 out of the whole and running up to 8700..... gonna try and load the motor harder and come out at 7800 where torque is at its max and let it run up to 8800 to 8900 and see how that works out for me
 
Turk said:
I was running a shallower helix with the same secondary pre-tension so if anything .

Once again – I’m just having fun with what you have been testing – you probably tested all day today …I visited in-laws – snuck in an offshore powerboat race during the gab – however.

Yes – you mentioned things about the track could be – I have no idea.

But….from what you said…with nothing else being in the mix…

My next test in order of least cost would be:

Tighten the secondary – yes that will change the full range as well.
or
Put a bigger secondary spring in – change full range also
or
Find what angle that lug in HP is happening at on your helix -and use a steeper angle at that point.

I induced that type of clutching into my trail sled, sort-a (Have a big box of clutch parts from Advant-Edge)

Running the throttle for sport riding – it works well. But – for trail riding I can slowly bring to 60 mph and the clutch then up shifts (shallow angle at that point) and pulls the rpm down a couple thousand rpms to save gas. It’s not lugging – just good for cruising on groomed trails. Snap the throttle and it wakes up.
 
Turk said:
Test the stuff on snow & sell it! Geez....what,s the problem? How can people sell something for so much $$$ & be so wrong? Be patient; test a kit on snow & then market it knowing it,s dead nutz on; bolt on & go. I have been closer clutching an unknown sled from 2000 miles away using bits & pieces.

Oh , I believe you on this one. Let's just say I know Pat pretty well......more than most on this site. Last year, when we were up on Lake Gogebic, we ran into one of those Yellow and black special edition APEXs fom Hauck. It had all the goodies on it. I'll say one thing,it looked nice. As for performance.....he could hardly stay in front of my Viper across the lake. The stock ATTAK in our group decimated it. I felt sorry for the guy and he seemed a bit embarrassed. This is just one instance. I have many more and I'll leave it at that.
 
I had to re-adjust the fuel controller today. It was -23C & sled was running like crap on the trail(yes; i do actually trail ride) it was farting; belching & popping. Went 60 miles & used 1/2 a tank. Man; we got some lean stuff happening. I raised the low & mid in the fuel curve & all was better. Sled ran great at -10 C but at -20 on a good air day the sucker was lean!
 
hey turk... i found that i was fat in the midrange on sat but it was a little bit warmer than u are talking about.... i have found that it actually is really conservative at hauck suggested settings.... according to air fuel sensor i put in highest reading i saw was 12.6 which is well within safe lean starts at 15 something on a 4 stroke motor... but i guess thats i put the gauge on so i could adjust according to temp
 
Anything over 12.5 is lean; at least it was on my turbo sled. these sleds are close to stock db at idle but they are loud at WOT!
 


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