Charged RTX
Expert
I also have 38-20 but they are to light.
cant load with weight???
Charged RTX
Expert
Hey Scott, It is Jason LeMay. Nice to hear from you. What do you think of Randies Drag and Fly? I am pretty sold on the 2 piece why do you think that he went back to a 1 piece? The old heel clickers pulled well but had no top end. I am going to be splitting the head gasket porting the head and advancing the timing this year. Hope to smoke a lot of Machs this year like you guys are doing up north!
Charged RTX
Expert
With the 38-20 I could not get it to hold RPM out of the hole 0-50 mph even loaded up.
Charged RTX
Expert
PTT (Scott) has set some up with the 38-20 and he knows his stuff. I just could not get mine to work. Maybe it is because of my heel-X
did you try changing the helix?
ptt
Guest
heelclickers
Hi Jason,
Hope you had a good summer, I haven't tried the drag & fly weight yet.
I hope to do some track dyno's with them then field test.
I will let you know the results.
As for the 2-speeds, jason has the "heavier" 40-20's like he said 66g.
The experience that I had is with the "heavier" 40-20's I had to use a heavy primary spring. (Heavier than I like to use) but they worked very well.
I have also used the originals (40-10) and the 38-20's.
From field testing I found the 38-20's to work the best.
I do not use the HC-X, I'm using the stock yamaha clutch with a helix that is cut for me from advantage.
Scott
Hi Jason,
Hope you had a good summer, I haven't tried the drag & fly weight yet.
I hope to do some track dyno's with them then field test.
I will let you know the results.
As for the 2-speeds, jason has the "heavier" 40-20's like he said 66g.
The experience that I had is with the "heavier" 40-20's I had to use a heavy primary spring. (Heavier than I like to use) but they worked very well.
I have also used the originals (40-10) and the 38-20's.
From field testing I found the 38-20's to work the best.
I do not use the HC-X, I'm using the stock yamaha clutch with a helix that is cut for me from advantage.
Scott
If you can,t get top end you have one of these issues
Too steep a helix
Weight is placed in the wrong spots
I get the same top end as any other primary weights have ever tested. If your losing top end rpm,s get a helix with a shallower finish angle or move the mass around in the weight itself. I used 40/20,s in my Attak using a stock yamaha g-g-g primary spring & it wasa s fast as stock weights on top but way better down low & mid.
Too steep a helix
Weight is placed in the wrong spots
I get the same top end as any other primary weights have ever tested. If your losing top end rpm,s get a helix with a shallower finish angle or move the mass around in the weight itself. I used 40/20,s in my Attak using a stock yamaha g-g-g primary spring & it wasa s fast as stock weights on top but way better down low & mid.
Charged RTX
Expert
Turk what were you using in the secondary with the 40-20 and the yami spring. I assume that you have the older 40-20 that was 60gm. My brother in law has them and it pisses me off because they do shift a lot flater. I have no problems keeping my r's at 10900 on top but with the 38-20 it would over rev 0-60 or so even with a 42-34 and a lot of weight in the shoulder. I run the black primary from ST and the yellow secondary or yami pink.
Charged RTX
Expert
Does anyone have a 46-38 they want to get rid of?
I have no problems keeping my r's at 10900 on top but with the 38-20 it would over rev 0-60 or so even with a 42-34 and a lot of weight in the shoulder. I run the black primary from ST and the yellow secondary or yami pink.[/quote]
you're on the right path with the 46/38
or did you load the heel to the max? although this will take some off the top end as well..
you're on the right path with the 46/38
or did you load the heel to the max? although this will take some off the top end as well..
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
sj said:
I have almost 2 heelclicker weights left over if anybody wants them for free. The 2nd weight only has a little nick in it and the 3rd is a jigsaw puzzle.
Much better weights out there in this day and age IMO.
If it only takes simple clutch weights to get me first across the finish line, I’ll take a dozen to go.
I've had better experiences and ETs with other weights.
Dan
dirkdiggler
Suspended
Dano said:
Are they the original one's. If so I'm not surprised. The New Billet ones are great. I ran them in my Viper last year with zero problems.
good point...takes more than weights for sure..
but in this day in age where SUCCESSFUL racers can run whatever they want...
it would seems the better weights you're referring would be winning the big races as well...
but not happening as far as I can see..
if you dont want them I'd take them...or maybe let you try a newer iteration..p.m. me
but in this day in age where SUCCESSFUL racers can run whatever they want...
it would seems the better weights you're referring would be winning the big races as well...
but not happening as far as I can see..
if you dont want them I'd take them...or maybe let you try a newer iteration..p.m. me
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
dirkdiggler said:
Not sure if they are the newest (non hamertime), but got them in 03 for my RX-1. They were suppose to have the clearance issues fixed and I also made sure I didn’t have heel contact with sheave when I installed them. I know others used this same weight with no issues and others that lost their clutches. I was lucky that my clutches were still useable.
I’ve never heard of any clutch weight break till supertorques came out. I’ve also never tried their newest stuff, but I just have a bad taste in my mouth now.
Dan
