RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
4strokelover87 said:
That is typically because of the carburetor warmers where the coolant flows through the carbs to keep them warm. When you shut it off hot, the coolant stays hot in the carbs and tends to dissipate the heat and evaporate some gas in the carbs and lines, this is what leads to hard starts, the carbs are just low on gas. A few members have installed shut-off valves in the coolant lines to stop the coolant from heating the carbs on warm days. A quick search should yield plenty of threads.
Also what is your idle at? I had to give it a little gas to get my sled started when warm before I bumped my idle up to 1500rpms, it was around 1200rpms, problem solved.
03RX1-ER-LE
Bleed BLUE
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,616
- Reaction score
- 1,266
- Points
- 1,478
- Location
- M-Th Livonia Mich F-S Oscoda Mich
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2011 Apex XTX 12,497 miles
2009 Apex ER 8,169 miles
2016 Sport Haven 12 foot Hybrid trailer
Tow Vehicle
2022 F-150 Super Crew 4x4 2.7L EcoBoost
2021 Wolverine X4
- LOCATION
- Livonia Michigan
I am thinking the concern is the warm carbs causes the fuel to perk over and the fuel goes into the cylinders. Then when you crank it up and give it a little throttle (extra air) it fires up. Seen this back in the automotive carb days.
4strokelover87
Lifetime Member
Alright, so I understand it will take longer to start when it's hot, this is just one other thing I didn't have trouble with on my '03, so I guess I'm just trying to make sure I don't have or cause any problems.
As far as what my idle is set at, it was set about 1,600 rpms for the first couple days up here and all was good. The last couple days it has been intermitently idling high, like 2,500, especially when it is hot. This, along with loosing my midrange here and there makes me wonder if I don't need a good carb clean. I will probably clean them when I get home before we come back up again in Feb.
I will try to 'burp' the coolant system a couple more times thismorning and see if I can get anything else out of it. I had a hard time keeping the temp below 220 for a few miles yesterday, but I'm sure it was the conditions. It was a freshly groomed trail with not alot of loose snow, and my buddy was right behind me on his Polaris and he was runnin 20-30 degrees hotter than he had all day also.
One quick question on the rear cooler....if I raise the rear of the sled up to install it anyway, is it necessary to drain the entire system, or just let whatever drains when I pull the hoses drain, then bleed the system again and add coolant??
As far as what my idle is set at, it was set about 1,600 rpms for the first couple days up here and all was good. The last couple days it has been intermitently idling high, like 2,500, especially when it is hot. This, along with loosing my midrange here and there makes me wonder if I don't need a good carb clean. I will probably clean them when I get home before we come back up again in Feb.
I will try to 'burp' the coolant system a couple more times thismorning and see if I can get anything else out of it. I had a hard time keeping the temp below 220 for a few miles yesterday, but I'm sure it was the conditions. It was a freshly groomed trail with not alot of loose snow, and my buddy was right behind me on his Polaris and he was runnin 20-30 degrees hotter than he had all day also.
One quick question on the rear cooler....if I raise the rear of the sled up to install it anyway, is it necessary to drain the entire system, or just let whatever drains when I pull the hoses drain, then bleed the system again and add coolant??
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
Ist-if you got air 3 out of 4 times you ran her up a bank to bleed, then you still have air in the system, only makes since, you have to replace the released air with the anti-freeze mixture. There is a fixed amount of space in the system, bleed out air and replace with anti-freeze. You can't just bleed, you must bleed and add coolant, bleed and add coolant, bleed and add coolant, got it?
2nd-absolutley add a rear heat exchanger-don't forget the tunnel protecters. There are several posts on how to construct. Very easy with some aluminum channel and flat stock and rivets. Bleed it from the elavated rear. This will solve your problem for ever.
2nd-absolutley add a rear heat exchanger-don't forget the tunnel protecters. There are several posts on how to construct. Very easy with some aluminum channel and flat stock and rivets. Bleed it from the elavated rear. This will solve your problem for ever.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
A good carb cleaning does sound in order.
You do not need to fully drain the system to install the rear cooler.
I hope by now you are getting the idea that you have to raise the rear of the sled and bleed from there, as the sled is running. This is the only sure way to get all the air out of the cooling system. Add coolant as necessary, while you are bleeding.
When you run on a hard packed trail, "dip" the sled into the bank to cool, frequently. It help the hyfax too. Or, ... if you run in these conditions all the time, try some Ice Scratchers. When I come up to a plowed road that I know is going to be a long run, I pack the running boards. They are Snowmobiles, with emphasis on the "snow."
You do not need to fully drain the system to install the rear cooler.
I hope by now you are getting the idea that you have to raise the rear of the sled and bleed from there, as the sled is running. This is the only sure way to get all the air out of the cooling system. Add coolant as necessary, while you are bleeding.
When you run on a hard packed trail, "dip" the sled into the bank to cool, frequently. It help the hyfax too. Or, ... if you run in these conditions all the time, try some Ice Scratchers. When I come up to a plowed road that I know is going to be a long run, I pack the running boards. They are Snowmobiles, with emphasis on the "snow."
03RX1-ER-LE
Bleed BLUE
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,616
- Reaction score
- 1,266
- Points
- 1,478
- Location
- M-Th Livonia Mich F-S Oscoda Mich
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2011 Apex XTX 12,497 miles
2009 Apex ER 8,169 miles
2016 Sport Haven 12 foot Hybrid trailer
Tow Vehicle
2022 F-150 Super Crew 4x4 2.7L EcoBoost
2021 Wolverine X4
- LOCATION
- Livonia Michigan
LOLLen Todd said:
When you run on a hard packed trail, "dip" the sled into the bank to cool, frequently. It help the hyfax too. Or, ... if you run in these conditions all the time, try some Ice Scratchers. When I come up to a plowed road that I know is going to be a long run, I pack the running boards. They are Snowmobiles, with emphasis on the "snow."
Len Todd I do enjoy you critisims and whitisims, it is like I tell my wife, if it don't smell like a fart, something is getting hot. Get in the powder!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I try to stay away from criticizing. We all have to learn this sometime. Heck, I am learning every day here.
I guess if someone is not reading the thread, before they chime in with off the mark suggestions, I do get a bit short. Off the mark suggestions cause confusion.
If I don't know the answer, I look in the book. If I can't find it in the book, I just keep the thread going to the top of list until the right person comes along. Sometimes, I go looking for that right person and ask them to join the post. But, keeping the post on the top of the list and still being helpful can sometimes be a bit difficult. Then, it is time for some humor.
I guess if someone is not reading the thread, before they chime in with off the mark suggestions, I do get a bit short. Off the mark suggestions cause confusion.
If I don't know the answer, I look in the book. If I can't find it in the book, I just keep the thread going to the top of list until the right person comes along. Sometimes, I go looking for that right person and ask them to join the post. But, keeping the post on the top of the list and still being helpful can sometimes be a bit difficult. Then, it is time for some humor.
kinger
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,410
- Reaction score
- 1,547
- Points
- 1,963
- Location
- Clear Lake, IA
- Website
- www.piergenius.com
Bleed, bleed, bleed that cooling system. You filled it up incorrectly going through the rear hole and then up to the coolant bottle. The correct procedure was posted a few back but you have massive air bubbles in that system.
I can barely get my sled to get up to 180 degrees even on bare roads (I have a autometer gauge)
Do you have a tilt trailer? If so back it on the trailer (or drive on forward, and then manually rotate it 180 degrees) then tilt it and get that azz end up in the air as high as you can, start it and pull the rear bolt, it will burp coolant all over sporadically but wait till it pumps a steady stream out and then put the bolt back in and shut it off and fill to the cold line and go.
I love St. Germain area been there twice in 2 years and stay on Big St. Germain lake. I forget the trail number but there is one running along power lines that has the best jumps ever just fly down the back side and touch gently near the bottom, I never screamed in so much fun as when I was riding those!
I can barely get my sled to get up to 180 degrees even on bare roads (I have a autometer gauge)
Do you have a tilt trailer? If so back it on the trailer (or drive on forward, and then manually rotate it 180 degrees) then tilt it and get that azz end up in the air as high as you can, start it and pull the rear bolt, it will burp coolant all over sporadically but wait till it pumps a steady stream out and then put the bolt back in and shut it off and fill to the cold line and go.
I love St. Germain area been there twice in 2 years and stay on Big St. Germain lake. I forget the trail number but there is one running along power lines that has the best jumps ever just fly down the back side and touch gently near the bottom, I never screamed in so much fun as when I was riding those!
4strokelover87
Lifetime Member
Well, I am back to work this morning....suck!!!! Roads sucked coming home, made for a long drive. For those of you who have installed a rear cooler, what kit did you go with? I was looking at Pioneer Performance's kit. I have also heard of people using the rear cooler for an RX Mountain. What is going to be the best one to go with here? Sounds like I need to raise the rear, install my cooler, and then bleed and add coolant as necessary. I was unclear on how to properly bleed with the bleed screw in back. I didn't realize the sled was to be running while unscrewing the bolt, but that does make sense!!!
Kinger - Where do you stay on Big Saint? We stay on the west shore at Fath's Big Woods....realy great people and nice cabins!!! I'm not sure if it's the same trail you're talking about, but there is a stretch of 70 SW of Big St. Germain Lake that we hit every year, multiple times, that is just as you have described!!! Awesome!!!
Let me know which cooler I should go with and I can get the thing on order so I can get it on before we go back up in February!!! Thanks guys!!!
Kinger - Where do you stay on Big Saint? We stay on the west shore at Fath's Big Woods....realy great people and nice cabins!!! I'm not sure if it's the same trail you're talking about, but there is a stretch of 70 SW of Big St. Germain Lake that we hit every year, multiple times, that is just as you have described!!! Awesome!!!
Let me know which cooler I should go with and I can get the thing on order so I can get it on before we go back up in February!!! Thanks guys!!!
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
Attachments
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
- Messages
- 7,840
- Reaction score
- 2,038
- Points
- 2,103
- Location
- sudbury on
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
that is the one i have in mine. thank god for ty as dealer part's guys had never heard of the kit. really helps with the overheating problem. mine still runs warm though, it will not accumulate snow on this cooler at all or on the tunnel top either. i have ridden is a lot of powder and it is always this way.
4strokelover87
Lifetime Member
I read through the thread Indy posted from Port Yamaha. Does anyone know why the kits have doubled in price since they came out??? I'm sure it's the same reason every thing else has gone up....but I was just curious....also, what comes with the kit?
OneBadWarrior
Expert
I had problems with my Warrior overheating on icy, low snow conditions but never with good snow. Your idle should not be 2500 and that will for sure add to your problem. 1500 is where mine is and I wouldn't go any higher. I'd give her carbs a good cleaning, burp it again but you can't go wrong adding a rear heat exchanger. When my Warrior is getting warm I throw snow on the boards and she cools right down. Barely goes over 200 most of the time. The newer machines have little radiators with fans. I've thought about retrofitting this setup in my Warrior. Good luck, with the addition of the rear unit you should be good to go!
RaWarrior
Extreme
My warrior rarely ever goes over 190, and on my 05 the temp light comes on at 210. Riding groomed trails at moderate speed(30-40) I run around 170, if I step the speed up to 60+ it runs around 160. In pow-pow or untouched lakes, it'll get as low as 150.
Add a coolant shut-off valve for the carb heat. You don't need it. I bought a 1/4" ball valve and two little barbs(I think 1/8" but not positive) to screw into it from Home Depot. You can easily get at the line going from the left side of the carb rack to the main cooling line over the head. Snip it in the middle, slip the valve/barbs in, and clamp. I couldn't find hose clamps that small, so I used zip-ties. Works fine, no leaks, and no more hard starts when hot or perculating. The sled can be at 170-180, shut it off, and just touch the key and it's running, don't even have to touch the gas. It cost like $5 and 15 minutes to do.
Add a coolant shut-off valve for the carb heat. You don't need it. I bought a 1/4" ball valve and two little barbs(I think 1/8" but not positive) to screw into it from Home Depot. You can easily get at the line going from the left side of the carb rack to the main cooling line over the head. Snip it in the middle, slip the valve/barbs in, and clamp. I couldn't find hose clamps that small, so I used zip-ties. Works fine, no leaks, and no more hard starts when hot or perculating. The sled can be at 170-180, shut it off, and just touch the key and it's running, don't even have to touch the gas. It cost like $5 and 15 minutes to do.
4strokelover87
Lifetime Member
Sounds like a good idea on installing the valve in the carb heat line!!! I will most likely do that unless anyone can give me good reason not to. Someone had asked the question earlier why I idle so much...the answer is I take atleast one trip a year with family (women and younger kids) and I always lead, but when I come to a 'T', I stop for a minute or two to let them catch up to try to stay together. So, instead of shutting my sled off all the time, I just leave it running. Hopefully with the addition of the rear cooler I will run cool enough when I am actually moving that I can afford to idle for a couple minutes without the temp rising over 200. I definitly don't like the hard starts when it's hot though...are the '03's the same way? I never had this problem with my '03...
