High/Erratic Coolant Temp 270SM tuned sled

[VyperNation]

Hey guys, curious if any of you any advice here. Towards the end of last season I put the hurricane 270SM tune on my on ‘21 xtx winder. After doing so, all the snow melted (sorry) so didn’t get a chance to test it then, but did do a boost leak test over the summer. This week is my first trip out.

This afternoon, on a straightaway, I ripped up to 100mph or so and got a red light flashed in my face. I didn’t glance down fast enough to see which one for sure, but think it was probably the coolant temp light. I pulled off and checked to make sure both the coolant and oil and were good, they were. I then started watching my temp like a hawk the rest of the ride back to the cabin. I am seeing really erratic temps when I am running 30mph or faster. Anything between 168 and 203 and it changes rapidly. Running the scratchers made no change. Slow down to a shoulder cruising speed and it settles in at 170 like I am used to.

Any thoughts? I plan on calling Hurricane tomorrow to see if they have dealt with it, but I figured I would start here now that the fire is stoked and my beer is full. Thanks!

 

[KnappAttack]

The red light that flashed in front of you was more than likely the det protection flashing. How old was the gas and what octane? I'm guessing you have last years stale gas in the tank yet...

 

[NYTurbo]

Probably air in the coolant system and what Knapp said above

 

[VyperNation]

91 octane from today. I stored it almost empty and have put a couple tanks of gas through it between last night and todays miles.

 

[KnappAttack]

I seems like newer sleds take a lot of miles to get the air out of them like NYTurbo said above, I know mine did.

What was you boost on the day it happened?

Its been cold and I'm getting reports of over boosting due to the cold temps lately, I have to think if the dash flashed at ya, its the det protection. Click it down to 240 on the cold days.

If the temp light comes on it stays on for a period of time till the temp comes down. Det protection flashes two lights, the oil pressure and temp light so you can see them flash and then go off.

 

[VyperNation]

I seems like newer sleds take a lot of miles to get the air out of them like NYTurbo said above, I know mine did.

What was you boost on the day it happened?

Its been cold and I'm getting reports of over boosting due to the cold temps lately, I have to think if the dash flashed at ya, its the det protection. Click it down to 240 on the cold days.

If the temp light comes on it stays on for a period of time till the temp comes down. Det protection flashes two lights, the oil pressure and temp light so you can see them flash and then go off.

I don’t know the answer to that, I foolishly didn’t do the dash cluster. I will be changing that wrong in the coming days….

And thank you, it was definitely the det protection based on that description. I will add some treatment tonight and see what happens with the temps. Clearly they are separate issues.

 

[justinator]

I don’t know the answer to that, I foolishly didn’t do the dash cluster. I will be changing that wrong in the coming days….

And thank you, it was definitely the det protection based on that description. I will add some treatment tonight and see what happens with the temps. Clearly they are separate issues.

You dont need the cluster flash to see your boost with a tune. Your hr meter becomes your boost gauge when the sled is running. With just key on it will display hours.

 

[farmerz24]

the best way we have found is to get the coolant as full as possible from the cap, then use a funnel and add the rest to the metal coolant tank above the turbo through the bunghole. may need to run the sled for a bit first, that helps. let it cool for a bit before unscrewing the bolt.

Also have found remixing the coolant to more of a 50/50 coolant/water ratio so it has more water helps dissapate the heat.

 

[NYTurbo]

the best way we have found is to get the coolant as full as possible from the cap, then use a funnel and add the rest to the metal coolant tank above the turbo through the bunghole. may need to run the sled for a bit first, that helps. let it cool for a bit before unscrewing the bolt.

Also have found remixing the coolant to more of a 50/50 coolant/water ratio so it has more water helps dissapate the heat.

We bleed the air from the system through the coolant tank bung while under pressure crack the tank bung until air stops and only coolant comes out . Some times takes a couple heat cycles

 

[VyperNation]

You dont need the cluster flash to see your boost with a tune. Your hr meter becomes your boost gauge when the sled is running. With just key on it will display hours.

Thank you for that juicy hidden secret. I had heard something to the effect, but messed with the gauges at several stop signs and didn’t realize it still said “hrs” so I skipped it.


As for the temp, last season I got to the 500 mile break in stock and that was it. Prior to today, I can’t say for sure if I had the temp variance. I don’t think I did, but of course watched it obsessively after the lights flashed. I will work on the air in the morning and go from there!! You guys, as always, are the best.

 

[DMCTurbo]

We bleed the air from the system through the coolant tank bung while under pressure crack the tank bung until air stops and only coolant comes out . Some times takes a couple heat cycles

I bled mine this way after my stage 6 build. Brought it up to temp and let cool down 3 or 4 times. No issues. By far the easiest and best way to do it IMO.

 

[VyperNation]

I bled mine this way after my stage 6 build. Brought it up to temp and let cool down 3 or 4 times. No issues. By far the easiest and best way to do it IMO.

Forgive my ignorance, but where is the coolant tank bung in question? Its dark and cold outside lol.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Forgive my ignorance, but where is the coolant tank bung in question? Its dark and cold outside lol.

 

[VyperNation]

Much thanks!

 

[VyperNation]

I bled mine this way after my stage 6 build. Brought it up to temp and let cool down 3 or 4 times. No issues. By far the easiest and best way to do it IMO.

Does under pressure mean just warm, or running?