Hitting Rev Limiter

[Kkurz]

I was out riding this weekend and whenever I got onto a lake and opened it up, I was on the rev limiter. I couldn't get over 75 mph. There was maybe 4" of snow, but it's old snow and wasn't real fluffy. So is this all I get? I figure it should do more. What can I try first, spring in the secondary? I've never had it apart so I can't say what wrap it's at. I think the primary has been updated to the 60g weights.
I have the new flash and the limit seems to be 9100 rpm. I've done the airbox mod also.

Thanks, Kevin.

 

[snowfever27]

How many miles? I have the same issue but I don’t think I hit the rev limiter as quick as you do. Also, my primary is touching my engine. I think I got a bad primary from the factory. How close does your primary get to your engine? I have a 15 XF7000, I also did the airbox mod. It has 2,000 miles. I have put 51, 53, and 55 gram DD weights in the primary and they all ping the rev limiter. The 60g cat weights barely let me hit the rev limiter. But they’re so blah.. no pop with the stock AC weights. I’m almost at the point where I’m going to change the jackshaft and put yammie clutches on it. I even bought a team tied secondary for it. That helped but I think the real issue is with the primary. Did you align your clutches? This is how close my secondary is to the engine.

 

[Kkurz]

Ya, I read your thread and I'll check clearance on mine soon and get back to you about that. It's stuck on the trailer with no reverse as of yet...
I have 10k km on it, but I've only put 2k on it myself.

 

[snowfever27]

Uh oh. Did the actuator die? Or is the no reverse problem deeper than that?

 

[D&C&S]

What is the air box mod you guys are doing.

 

[snowfever27]

This is the airbox mod I did. I’m assuming Khurz did the same one. It definitely made a difference.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/air-box-mod-updated.132519/

Read through the thread. I don’t think you want to bend the divider like it says in the early part of the thread. I didn’t bend mine.

 

[Studroes144]

Have you guys pulled your primary cover off and taken the belt off to see if the primary moves in and out freely? We had an xf7000 that we did clutching on and primary was very tight. Would only pull 85 mph. Polished the contact point in the primary and went right back out and ran 99 mph in same conditions. The primary was really tight though, although it's not the first one I've seen or heard of that was like that. I'd go heavier on the big dog weights too, they work phenomenal on the 7000's

 

[Kkurz]

Have you guys pulled your primary cover off and taken the belt off to see if the primary moves in and out freely? We had an xf7000 that we did clutching on and primary was very tight. Would only pull 85 mph. Polished the contact point in the primary and went right back out and ran 99 mph in same conditions. The primary was really tight though, although it's not the first one I've seen or heard of that was like that. I'd go heavier on the big dog weights too, they work phenomenal on the 7000's

So maybe I need to clean and service the clutches? I bought it used, so they could use some lovin' ...

 

[snowfever27]

Nospro gave me some solid tips earlier in the season; per his guidance I polished the contact points put an extremely light amount of oil on the polished contact areas and then worked the clutch back and forth. Let it sit over night and it worked much better. Almost no stickiness after that. I still hit the limiter. I bought the cat alignement bar, and the clutches were aligned properly. I’d get the next heaviest weight of D&D’s BUT they said use the 51’s. That’s what came in their clutch kit. Wayyyyy to light, then I got 53’s, still too light, and then Drumz11 gave me a great deal on 55’s and I’m still hitting the limiter haha. I can’t seem to win. Now that I found the primary is hitting the engine (I’m assuming this only happens on long WOT pulls) I don’t really feel comfortable feeding this XF a hot supper for too long. I may sell the primary for parts, sell the weights and buy a PB 80 from cv tech. Those things are apparently a solid clutch that’s reallt easy to tune. But.... I can’t find very many reviews on them. I guess if they work well on the vectors and apex’s they would work on a 7000/viper.

 

[Kkurz]

I was under the understanding that Cat had an update on clutch weights to 60 grams. Not too sure how I can identify the weight of my arms?

 

[snowfever27]

I was under the understanding that Cat had an update on clutch weights to 60 grams. Not too sure how I can identify the weight of my arms?

Yes, you are correct. In 14 the 7000’s had 57 gram stock weights. In 15 they went to 60 gram weights. If I run the stock 60 gram cat weights I won’t hit the limiter unless I’m WOT in super light snow. But the stock weights are kind of boring, I like the DD ones better. But I find the limiter much quicker with the DD’s. The stock cat weights say the weight on the side of the arms. It’s hard to see when they are in the clutch. I had to take mine out to see that they were the 60 gram weights.

 

[Studroes144]

Nospro gave me some solid tips earlier in the season; per his guidance I polished the contact points put an extremely light amount of oil on the polished contact areas and then worked the clutch back and forth. Let it sit over night and it worked much better. Almost no stickiness after that. I still hit the limiter. I bought the cat alignement bar, and the clutches were aligned properly. I’d get the next heaviest weight of D&D’s BUT they said use the 51’s. That’s what came in their clutch kit. Wayyyyy to light, then I got 53’s, still too light, and then Drumz11 gave me a great deal on 55’s and I’m still hitting the limiter haha. I can’t seem to win. Now that I found the primary is hitting the engine (I’m assuming this only happens on long WOT pulls) I don’t really feel comfortable feeding this XF a hot supper for too long. I may sell the primary for parts, sell the weights and buy a PB 80 from cv tech. Those things are apparently a solid clutch that’s reallt easy to tune. But.... I can’t find very many reviews on them. I guess if they work well on the vectors and apex’s they would work on a 7000/viper.

The thing with the big dog weights is they act roughly 3 grams heavier than they are, so your 55's act like a 58 gram weight..in which case is still probably on the light side. I had 53 gram big dogs in the one we clutched, was spot on stock, once I did air box mod then it would hit the rev limiter anything over 95 and was a slow climb to 99 because of the rev limiter. 55's would've been spot on with that one. I got a set of notched 75 big dogs if u wanna try them lol may need to throw some boost at it tho. I'd maybe give d&d a call and see if they got any used big dogs that would get u closer to where u need to be. The profile compliments the power deliver of the engine so well it'd be a shame to go back to something else. Cat clutches are definitely cheap and won't last as long as a yammi clutch but they operate so smooth and are very quiet compared to the yammi clutches.

 

[Kkurz]

Uh oh. Did the actuator die? Or is the no reverse problem deeper than that?

I think the actuator I pooched. It isn't grinding the gear like other guys' sleds. It just isn't shifting.


I looked at my clutch clearance and it looks just like yours. No marks on the coolant fitting.

 

[D&C&S]

Anyone try the 0627-075 belt for the 7000 it's supposed to have more grip and run at a lower rpm.

 

[Kkurz]

Have you guys pulled your primary cover off and taken the belt off to see if the primary moves in and out freely? We had an xf7000 that we did clutching on and primary was very tight. Would only pull 85 mph. Polished the contact point in the primary and went right back out and ran 99 mph in same conditions. The primary was really tight though, although it's not the first one I've seen or heard of that was like that. I'd go heavier on the big dog weights too, they work phenomenal on the 7000's

Is it possible to do much of the service work in the sled. I don't have a puller.