How do i make my front end stay on the ground.......

[AKrider]

The stock position for the rear scissors strap is all the way out. By tightening it, you suck the rear end further down and increase both the preload and coupling.

The blocks will work to help limit transfer, but they also make the coupling happen sooner which will make the sled ride rough over the little stuff. But, since you can try the blocks for free, it is worth doing.

Also, tighten your front limiter down a hole or two. That will help to limit the weight transfer at the expense of added ski pressure.

 

[gormleyflyer2002]

read the article on the Hygear site regarding this sled. Yo won't need the stops or the straps pulled if you revalve the shocks.......I'm a taller and bigger guy, my ski are just floating at best. I know how you feel though, in stock form she's stupid.

 

[pro116]

Bigger rear springs.Even if you tightn your compression on the shocks and put blocks in you are riding in the stiffer part of the valving on flat trails so stutter bumps would be harsh.


The rule of thumb on setting up any suspension to ride best all around is getting your ride height with you on the sled perfect before you adjust and shocks and you won't be able to do this with out larger springs.

 

[shotgunfatcat]

I weigh about 300 Lbs, I have been getting my suspension in place over the last week or so, I put the rear torsion spring on high, that made a huge difference for me. I think it was on the soft setting before, It just came that way and I figured I would throw some miles on it before I screwed with it, constant wheelies when I punched it, fun but crappy handling. with the spring on hard, It doesn't pull up nearly as much and it plants better in the corners. I still have to pull the limiter strap down and adjust the front skid shock, I think with that it will be great for stock ski's, I am going to throw a set of slydogs with 6 inch shapers, for the end of this year, next year it is getting studded with 8 inch carbides. I would like to get the triple rate springs, but they are a bit pricey. Now that I rambled on a bit, I think you need to bump up the torsion spring to hard, that will balance the sled a lot more for a bigger guy.

 

[DeerHuntr]

Suppose I should give an update. I went for ride last weekend and it seems allot better no more wheelies unless I want it to and it handles a whole lot better!!! Here is where I am at after 1400 miles. I have USI PX301 skis on it with 6" bides mounted in the rear hole, 96 Woody's Megabites, 60psi in the front shock, front skid shock set so the spring is as light as it can go compression 4 clicks from softest,limiter strap pulled up two holes, rear springs on high, rear straps stock position, put in coupling blocks I pulled from the Fusion for the time being (don't tell the wife).Seems to handle pretty good now, it is very predictable in pretty much all conditions. I checked my toe on my skis and it was 1/4" IN so I moved them to about 5/8" out, might have gone a bit too far but it seems VERY stable at speed and chases zero ruts so I am going to leave it for the time being. I will say the ride seems a bit more harsh in the small to medium stuff with the coupling blocks then without, may soften the compression a bit more and try letting a few more psi out of the front. Only have 120 miles on with this setup so i will know m ore with more miles but so far so good!!! I also made a tunel close off plate to cover approx 3/4 of the muffler,my tail light now remains free from snow and I would bet it cut down on my ice build up by 75-80%.

 

[usafracer]

Thanks for the update.

 

[YamahaFreak]

This is just me, I had the same problem my front end was always riding a wheelie. I tighten my limiter strap down one hole and put the coil spring blocks on HIGH, then tighten the spring, and it is great now.