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How durable is the pb80?

stgdz

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
634
Age
46
Location
Buffalo MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
19 tcat, 15 4000 RR, 13 800 RR
Well I have went through my third team clean clutch in about 6000 miles. Two of them were north of 2k miles before they cracked and one went fast at 500 miles.

I've been looking at the pb80 as I don't have the tapp cash but will keep my team secondary as that has been doing really well.

I did some digging and found some posts on Doo talk with Mr Knapp and his experiences with them and other posters. Seen some exploded ones.with some lower miles and others commenting that they run hot. I tend to pile on the miles with my sled, average about 2500-3k per year and always blow out the clutch after every ride.

Seems like triple 4 strokes are hard on clutches due to harmonics.
 

so to run sw clutches on a cat one would have to change stub shaft? my buddy has gone through 2 stock team primarys on his tcat
 
Well I have went through my third team clean clutch in about 6000 miles. Two of them were north of 2k miles before they cracked and one went fast at 500 miles.

I've been looking at the pb80 as I don't have the tapp cash but will keep my team secondary as that has been doing really well.

I did some digging and found some posts on Doo talk with Mr Knapp and his experiences with them and other posters. Seen some exploded ones.with some lower miles and others commenting that they run hot. I tend to pile on the miles with my sled, average about 2500-3k per year and always blow out the clutch after every ride.

Seems like triple 4 strokes are hard on clutches due to harmonics.

The PB80 is an awesome clutch. It will take power up at 300HP. I ran it on my 1200 Turbo Doo without problems and it was faster than the tuned Winders at that time. The problem with them is it can break the spring cup. You MUST use the CVTech springs in them, yet they still can break the spring cup. When they break you know it, it will vibrate like a SOB. I've never seen a PB80 actually blow up, but some people stupidly have broken the spring cup and kept riding which destroys the internal parts beyond use. I've broken a spring cup and had to get hauled home once. Its hit and miss on the cups breaking. I'd run one without hesitation.

Precision Sports who turbos the Ski-Doo 1200's with their Motec systems at one time had used the PB80 on their 300+ builds with billet spring cups made. They are a great clutch that makes no noise at all and will take the abuse of a three cylinder 998 or the 1200. They work very well and are very easy to tune. I had bought one to put on my 998 and ran it once for only a couple miles, but took it off to go back to a baseline setup I had been using. I then ended up selling it to a guy who needed a clutch right away, and it works well on his 300 tuned sled. They don't dissipate the heat as well as the Yamaha primary or a TAPP as the cover is steel and there's not much windage there to grab air around it, so they will run a bit warmer, It'd be good to ventilate in front of it to give it some cool air. It transmits the power to the track very well and is so quiet running. It won't sound like a bucket of bolts rattling like the Yamaha primary does. What it is not though is a drag race clutch. It's tough to get higher engagement and keep a grip on the belt down low, but for a trail clutch its awesome.
 
Well I have went through my third team clean clutch in about 6000 miles. Two of them were north of 2k miles before they cracked and one went fast at 500 miles.

I've been looking at the pb80 as I don't have the tapp cash but will keep my team secondary as that has been doing really well.

I did some digging and found some posts on Doo talk with Mr Knapp and his experiences with them and other posters. Seen some exploded ones.with some lower miles and others commenting that they run hot. I tend to pile on the miles with my sled, average about 2500-3k per year and always blow out the clutch after every ride.

Seems like triple 4 strokes are hard on clutches due to harmonics.
I have a cat tapp to sell, 2200 miles on it, standard rollers and plus ones, stk spring and one step stiffer spring, all wieghts and manuel/papers with it, pm me for $
 
The PB80 is an awesome clutch. It will take power up at 300HP. I ran it on my 1200 Turbo Doo without problems and it was faster than the tuned Winders at that time. The problem with them is it can break the spring cup. You MUST use the CVTech springs in them, yet they still can break the spring cup. When they break you know it, it will vibrate like a SOB. I've never seen a PB80 actually blow up, but some people stupidly have broken the spring cup and kept riding which destroys the internal parts beyond use. I've broken a spring cup and had to get hauled home once. Its hit and miss on the cups breaking. I'd run one without hesitation.

Precision Sports who turbos the Ski-Doo 1200's with their Motec systems at one time had used the PB80 on their 300+ builds with billet spring cups made. They are a great clutch that makes no noise at all and will take the abuse of a three cylinder 998 or the 1200. They work very well and are very easy to tune. I had bought one to put on my 998 and ran it once for only a couple miles, but took it off to go back to a baseline setup I had been using. I then ended up selling it to a guy who needed a clutch right away, and it works well on his 300 tuned sled. They don't dissipate the heat as well as the Yamaha primary or a TAPP as the cover is steel and there's not much windage there to grab air around it, so they will run a bit warmer, It'd be good to ventilate in front of it to give it some cool air. It transmits the power to the track very well and is so quiet running. It won't sound like a bucket of bolts rattling like the Yamaha primary does. What it is not though is a drag race clutch. It's tough to get higher engagement and keep a grip on the belt down low, but for a trail clutch its awesome.
Is the cup the aluminum section that sits over the weights?
 
Is the cup the aluminum section that sits over the weights?

Its the cup that holds the spring and holds the outer bushing. The cover holds the outer portion of the weights.
It is a good clutch other than the cup breakage which I dont believe they have cured yet. All it would take is a forged, billet or a steel cup rather than the cast alum. cup.
 


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