TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
Newby here - what a great site and super helpful posts, thanks everybody for their time.
Wanderingarrows, did you have any luck pulling the starter gear cover off the side of the engine?
Ive got the same machine, my starter had grinding noises the other day, followed by the sound of the starter motor spinning, but not engaging. Im not sure if its the starter (teeth) or the starter gear.
I pulled the battery, air box, steering rack, front motor mounts, filter, and oil resevoir. I can see the starter behind the filter location however, the bolts appear very difficult to access through the oil filter hatch. Did you pull it through the hatch? As such, I thought I might inspect the starter one way gear instead/first.
I can’t see how I can remove the side engine cover (stator) without fully removing the engine to access the three bolts on the bottom right (forward) side they are blocked by the frame as previously described by Yamahahoss.
It seems i might need to remove the rear engine mounts as well? This implies the chain case too? My pile of sled parts on my shop floor is growing at an alarming rate.
Wanderingarrows, did you have any luck pulling the starter gear cover off the side of the engine?
Ive got the same machine, my starter had grinding noises the other day, followed by the sound of the starter motor spinning, but not engaging. Im not sure if its the starter (teeth) or the starter gear.
I pulled the battery, air box, steering rack, front motor mounts, filter, and oil resevoir. I can see the starter behind the filter location however, the bolts appear very difficult to access through the oil filter hatch. Did you pull it through the hatch? As such, I thought I might inspect the starter one way gear instead/first.
I can’t see how I can remove the side engine cover (stator) without fully removing the engine to access the three bolts on the bottom right (forward) side they are blocked by the frame as previously described by Yamahahoss.
It seems i might need to remove the rear engine mounts as well? This implies the chain case too? My pile of sled parts on my shop floor is growing at an alarming rate.
TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
I know this is an old post, but YamahaHoss how did you get the side cover off? Did you end up having to pull the engine?Thank you, all of the help I received was fantastic!! It was a total success!! Thank you! One note... never got those two allen head bolts out.. so carefully took the engine up and forward slightly, then one ot cleared the donut area we lifted up past it.. did the Stator, then put the new donuts in place lowered the engine back into position and clamped the headers and donuts back together! It actually worked like a charm... but a little lucky too!!
74Nitro
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Yes. I had the engine on a chain hoist to raise it once I removed the mount bolts.So you left the ,seat , steering and tank in place? Just preparing myself I have to replace starter gear and starter clutch I suspect. My starter went bad and I replaced it from below but didn't like what I seen on the gear so pulling it apart to check it out and would love not to pull everything apart 2012 rs venture 500 miles . Sad day
wanderingarrows
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Perfect ill give it a shot , thanks for the infoYes. I had the engine on a chain hoist to raise it once I removed the mount bolts.
wanderingarrows
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1995 340 ovation
I was able to do the starter from underneath by tipping the motor back . It's a tight spot but it does work . Going to try to get my stator cover off today without pulling it and will report back later .Newby here - what a great site and super helpful posts, thanks everybody for their time.
Wanderingarrows, did you have any luck pulling the starter gear cover off the side of the engine?
Ive got the same machine, my starter had grinding noises the other day, followed by the sound of the starter motor spinning, but not engaging. Im not sure if its the starter (teeth) or the starter gear.
I pulled the battery, air box, steering rack, front motor mounts, filter, and oil resevoir. I can see the starter behind the filter location however, the bolts appear very difficult to access through the oil filter hatch. Did you pull it through the hatch? As such, I thought I might inspect the starter one way gear instead/first.
I can’t see how I can remove the side engine cover (stator) without fully removing the engine to access the three bolts on the bottom right (forward) side they are blocked by the frame as previously described by Yamahahoss.
It seems i might need to remove the rear engine mounts as well? This implies the chain case too? My pile of sled parts on my shop floor is growing at an alarming rate.
74Nitro
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It doesn't have to go up a lot. This chassis was originally designed for the 4-cylinder engine. Removing the cover on those was very easy. No engine movement was required.
wanderingarrows
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1995 340 ovation
Thanks a ton , it worked just waiting on parts and a new magnet.It doesn't have to go up a lot. This chassis was originally designed for the 4-cylinder engine. Removing the cover on those was very easy. No engine movement was required.
74Nitro
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Inspect the one way clutch on the backside of the flywheel while you're in there.
wanderingarrows
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I checked it out and all looks good from what i can tell , but i did have one on order so i might just install it since i'm in there anyways.
The starter went ( magnets came loose ) when i went to start it in storage, so im pretty sure it never ran with the sheared gear but i guess i cant be positive .
The starter went ( magnets came loose ) when i went to start it in storage, so im pretty sure it never ran with the sheared gear but i guess i cant be positive .
TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
With some much appreciated guidance from Wanderingarrows (going through the same issue), i’ve almost got the stator cover off my 2012 Venture Rs. Had to remove all the engine mount bolts and lift up an inch or so and maybe 1/4” aft. Just enough to access the stator cover bolts and remove them.
Unfortunately the stator cover still wont come out the side as it hits the steering shaft and frame opening. I can however see through the cover gap and see some damaged gear teeth so I guess I’m committed now. I tried disconnecting the forward steering shaft collar support but its not enough for the cover to clear. I’ll try removing the aft end support as well tomorrow.
Unfortunately the stator cover still wont come out the side as it hits the steering shaft and frame opening. I can however see through the cover gap and see some damaged gear teeth so I guess I’m committed now. I tried disconnecting the forward steering shaft collar support but its not enough for the cover to clear. I’ll try removing the aft end support as well tomorrow.
RobX-1
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The steering shaft at the other end should just be three nuts where you will need to pull the cotter pins. Also, if the gas tank is not already removed, you will most likely need to as you need to get a wrench/socket on the end of the bolts to loosen/fasten those nuts.
TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
Thanks for the heads up. The gas tank is not off yet but my exhaust donuts are shot so…. Might as well add to the sled parts pile! Looks like the reverse mech is tangled in those three bolts, hopefully don’t need to remove that too.The steering shaft at the other end should just be three nuts where you will need to pull the cotter pins. Also, if the gas tank is not already removed, you will most likely need to as you need to get a wrench/socket on the end of the bolts to loosen/fasten those nuts.
RobX-1
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Yes, you will need to remove the three bolts securing the reverse lever bracket but should just be able to lay down towards the chain case once unbolted without having to remove any of the linkage or having to re-adjust reverse mechanism linkage as well. You will need to unplug the two wires for the rev beeper too.
Something else you may need to do to get better access to those steering shaft nuts and is something I also do when disassembling the chain case is to remove the nut/bolt and the Y reverse linkage from the outer chain case. It's just a 10mm bolt and nut on the back side with a fender washer too. This allows you to move the reverse linkage more freely and may be something needed to get to those nuts.
Something else you may need to do to get better access to those steering shaft nuts and is something I also do when disassembling the chain case is to remove the nut/bolt and the Y reverse linkage from the outer chain case. It's just a 10mm bolt and nut on the back side with a fender washer too. This allows you to move the reverse linkage more freely and may be something needed to get to those nuts.
TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
The steering shaft at the other end should just be three nuts where you will need to pull the cotter pins. Also, if the gas tank is not already removed, you will most likely need to as you need to get a wrench/socket on the end of the bolts to loosen/fasten those nuts.
TL Trailblazzer
Newbie
Thanks RobX-1. I managed to just loosen two of those aft steering shaft bolts without having to remove the fuel tank and there was enough play to get the shaft out of the way.
The stator cover came off and out with a dirty fight. My Starter gear and 3” ring gear both have tooth damage. The one way bearing seems to work smoothly. I tried pulling the stator housing off the crank shaft to inspect the gear but the stator housing is stubborn like the rest of this job and wont come off.
Im wondering if I should pursue removing the one way gear as I understand that part is in short supply locally.
The stator cover came off and out with a dirty fight. My Starter gear and 3” ring gear both have tooth damage. The one way bearing seems to work smoothly. I tried pulling the stator housing off the crank shaft to inspect the gear but the stator housing is stubborn like the rest of this job and wont come off.
Im wondering if I should pursue removing the one way gear as I understand that part is in short supply locally.
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