
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,183
- Reaction score
- 209
- Points
- 1,383
- Location
- NE Indiana
- Website
- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
I started out reading Katchess's thread about his mod sled and thought the exhaust was a good idea.
Only problem was, every exhaust they had made was slightly different and none of the parts were standard or easy to find.
Wanted to lower the overall weight, and physically lower any weight I can on the sled for a lower center of gravity (CG).
A cooler sound, more throaty, NOT necessarily louder, is what I wanted.
With the Under Tunnel Exhaust, I ended up cutting about 6+ pounds from the sled. Also lowered the CG in the process.
The sound is cool! Definitely has more of a street bike sound to it.
This is what was used and how I did it.
Most all the part numbers are NAPA part numbers, that way most anyone can easily get the parts.
1 Hush Thrush Glass Pack 1-3/4" ID in & out, 3" OD, NAPA# 24210 (0907215)
1 Adapter NAPA# 735-7103
1 Adapter NAPA# 735-1626 2-1/4 ID x 2" OD
1 Adapter NAPA# 41943
1 Exhaust clamp that will fit over the Chrome tip
1 Exhaust Baffle (Any Harley/Bike shop should have this, about $10)
1 Chrome Exhaust Tip NAPA# 735-1615
1x1x1/8" Aluminum Angle Home Depot 2 foot or more.
Only the input to the glass pack and the nut inside the baffle needs to be welded, very minor.
Welded it myself, but any muffler shop can do it.
Remove the seat, rear taillight Assembly, and gas tank.
Remove the exhaust shields and mounting points.
You only have to really remove from the 2 into 1 Y pipe back, however now is a good time to replace those pesky exhaust donuts.
Need to cut the 2 into 1 Y pipe here.
This is the part you will no longer use, save the rubber mounts/bolts etc.
The larger end of the 735-1626 adapter will be made oval to fit the Y pipe.
Slowly clamp it in a vise until it fits perfectly over the Y pipe.
Once oval, this and adapter 41943 go together onto Y pipe and glass pack.
Pic of the test fit.
After proper fitting, these joints are prepped and welded.
The Grey "paint" is actually a high zinc galvanizing spray on coating to help prevent rust.
This completes the input end of the exhaust.
Only problem was, every exhaust they had made was slightly different and none of the parts were standard or easy to find.
Wanted to lower the overall weight, and physically lower any weight I can on the sled for a lower center of gravity (CG).
A cooler sound, more throaty, NOT necessarily louder, is what I wanted.
With the Under Tunnel Exhaust, I ended up cutting about 6+ pounds from the sled. Also lowered the CG in the process.
The sound is cool! Definitely has more of a street bike sound to it.
This is what was used and how I did it.
Most all the part numbers are NAPA part numbers, that way most anyone can easily get the parts.
1 Hush Thrush Glass Pack 1-3/4" ID in & out, 3" OD, NAPA# 24210 (0907215)
1 Adapter NAPA# 735-7103
1 Adapter NAPA# 735-1626 2-1/4 ID x 2" OD
1 Adapter NAPA# 41943
1 Exhaust clamp that will fit over the Chrome tip
1 Exhaust Baffle (Any Harley/Bike shop should have this, about $10)
1 Chrome Exhaust Tip NAPA# 735-1615
1x1x1/8" Aluminum Angle Home Depot 2 foot or more.
Only the input to the glass pack and the nut inside the baffle needs to be welded, very minor.
Welded it myself, but any muffler shop can do it.
Remove the seat, rear taillight Assembly, and gas tank.
Remove the exhaust shields and mounting points.
You only have to really remove from the 2 into 1 Y pipe back, however now is a good time to replace those pesky exhaust donuts.
Need to cut the 2 into 1 Y pipe here.

This is the part you will no longer use, save the rubber mounts/bolts etc.
The larger end of the 735-1626 adapter will be made oval to fit the Y pipe.
Slowly clamp it in a vise until it fits perfectly over the Y pipe.

Once oval, this and adapter 41943 go together onto Y pipe and glass pack.
Pic of the test fit.

After proper fitting, these joints are prepped and welded.
The Grey "paint" is actually a high zinc galvanizing spray on coating to help prevent rust.

This completes the input end of the exhaust.