spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yamahas is talking during assembly. You guys are talking your 'setting'. To each his own on the setting, it's east enough, change it and try it. And you are right with the back shift and such. Tighter. But if you have a motor that'll pull it (4stroke?) looser so it shifts out quicker. I've always went for back shift that'd about throw you over the bars, lol.
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spike337 said:Yamahas is talking during assembly. You guys are talking your 'setting'. To each his own on the setting, it's east enough, change it and try it. And you are right with the back shift and such. Tighter. But if you have a motor that'll pull it (4stroke?) looser so it shifts out quicker. I've always went for back shift that'd about throw you over the bars, lol.
Do I need to set it up now that I had it apart or was the way I did it ok? I was following the instructions in the other post about clutch maintenance.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Good job - thanks for taking the time to do that. Unless I did something wrong, the spring in the VL secondary must be stiffer because I could not turn and hold it the way you did.
smalltownpower
Expert
k so i'm trying to make sence of all this right now. the formula is not making any sence. my clutch setting is b1 so 2+1x10=20degree's wrap which in the service manual its 45, 50,55 degree's. sooo confused at the moment
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Maybe you are trying too hard - (2+1)x10= 30 degrees not 20 - just follow Cannondale's instructions and you'll be okay. I think it is only about a 1/4 turn to get the helix to fit in the first location after turning and puts tension on the spring.smalltownpower said:k so i'm trying to make sence of all this right now. the formula is not making any sence. my clutch setting is b1 so 2+1x10=20degree's wrap which in the service manual its 45, 50,55 degree's. sooo confused at the moment
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Take a look and study this chart it should answer all your questions. There is special little chart for the Phazers with the A B C holes you are talking about also make sure to correspond to the correct secondary spring color. Check out the TY TECH pages lots of good info there for the taking.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... prings.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... prings.htm
07Nytro
Expert
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this should be a sticky imo
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I posted a clarification about the degrees on the first post. Thanks to Cannondale!
Weapon X
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
CAN'T STRESS HOW IMPORTANT NEW CIRCLIP IS ,mine blew off at 12000 rpm and melted helix and a sheave !!
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
You guys either are over stretching, or bending them up taking them off, not getting them all the way in the ring land, or i'm the luckiest guy in the world with that. I certainly DO agree you should replace the clip, but i have never in 25+ years done that on mine or many other sleds i've done and never had a failure. Maybe now days, or that particular clip is different? Like i said, i'm not saying 'not to' replace them, just think you may want to make sure you're 'seating' them right. (like in Yamahas video at the very end.)
I'll also add that these were mostly Polaris' and Ski-Doos with a non-splined shaft, but a key-way. Don't know that'd change anything though.
I'll also add that these were mostly Polaris' and Ski-Doos with a non-splined shaft, but a key-way. Don't know that'd change anything though.
Spike I never had one come of either till Phazer one did.On mine it actually sheared the splines off at a angle all the way around from the groove out.Happened soon after I had it apart so I assume it was either me installing or the clip was bad.Will take a pic once I get a new camera.
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
Especially hearing about a few coming apart on TY, i'd put a new one on next time for sure. I'll learn the 'cheap' way for once, instead of learning from MY mistakes.
Good info, good post.
Good info, good post.
Anyone have the partnumber for the circlip? Also how do you take the secondary out of the sled and what tourqes putting it back in?
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Circlip: 93440-34170-00
Put the parking brake on and loosen the bolt. If the parking brake still slips hold the brake lever. Make sure you keep track of the washers and their locations, its very important.
You can find the torque at the top of the phazer section for everything. The bolt torque is 43Ft. Lbs.
Put the parking brake on and loosen the bolt. If the parking brake still slips hold the brake lever. Make sure you keep track of the washers and their locations, its very important.
You can find the torque at the top of the phazer section for everything. The bolt torque is 43Ft. Lbs.
yamahas said:Circlip: 93440-34170-00
Put the parking brake on and loosen the bolt. If the parking brake still slips hold the brake lever. Make sure you keep track of the washers and their locations, its very important.
You can find the torque at the top of the phazer section for everything. The bolt torque is 43Ft. Lbs.
More dumb questions from readin the tourque specs, lithium soap based grease for lubricating the secondary shaft, I'm assuming this would need to be some sort of spray on grease? Non of my local stores carry any.. any suggestions on what to use?
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