hyfax ?

[sledneck22]

I just replaced the slides on my Apex last night and was super easy to do. After jacking the rear of the sled into the air you must remove the two phillips head screws in the front end of the slides. Make sure you have a large phillips head screw driver so you don't strip out the screw. After removing both screws you need to line up a track window to the back end of the slide on the rear of the sled. You don't have to notch your window on your track but you can to make it go in and out much easier if you do. If you do notch your track make sure after you notch one window you rotate your track half way around before you notch another window so you don't weaken the track in one spot all the way across. (personally I don't think it would matter to much if you notched in the same area but it is so easy to rotate the track just do it anyway) Then I take a flat head screw driver with a hammer and tapped a notch into the old slide. Then I angled the screw driver so I could tap the slide out the end of the rail through the window on the track you just notched out. After the slide is out far enough put a vise-grip on the end and give it a few tugs until it is sticking 4 inches out the window of the track. Give the slide a few more tugs and if it comes easy then keep pulling. If it is hard to pull I just put the sled while still hosted in the air in reverse and just give it enough throttle to spin the track and it will peel the slide right off. Most of the time though I am able to tug the slide right off without doing this. After you get both your slide off measure your old slides length and cut the new slides to that length. Make sure you don't cut the end off the new slide which has the recessed hole in it for the screw which you need to reinstall in the front of the rail and slide. When reinstalling use some WD-40 or silicone lube all the way up the new slides. Line the new slide up on the rear of the rails and tap them on the rail with a rubber mallet. Having someone help you here make a big difference. Have someone watch the the front of the rail/slide to see when the hole in the slide lines up with the tapped hole in the rail for your screw. When you have the slide lined up reinstall the screw with some blue loctine on the treads. Lining the hole up from the slide to the rail right on makes installing the screw sooo much easier because if they are a little off you can put the screw in crooked and cross thread the taps. If you have any questions feel free to let me know and I can help you out.
Regards,
Kyle

 

[apex55]

Sharkattak, apex55, where do you guys ride? I live in Ashburnham Ma, but i ride and keep my sled in Northern Me. I go to cully's as well for parts but I do my own work on my sled.

NEK mostly out of Saint Johnsbury VT. I am hoping to explore NH and ME next year.

 

[apex55]

Thanks for all the info. Because I don't have a garage and would be out in the snow I'm having it done at the dealer, but I will do it myself in the future. I'll be doing more of my own maintenace going forward. If it wasn't for us newbies coming on who would there be to insult??lol

 

[mud99]

I pull my skid every time I change hyfax, gives me time to grease and clean everything and check for damage, and do the work correctly on a bench - don't understand why everyone is in such a hurry, messing with track windows, etc. It's much more time consuming to miss something and spend half a day getting towed out....

Mark

 

[WANN4STROKE]

I'm with you Mud. Now I just need to find someone to help me put it back in.

David

 

[apex55]

$26 for parts and $50 for labor, i'd let the dealer do it. You will do one or more of the following the first time:

1. Strip the heads off the screws holding the hyfax in.
2. Break a screw off inside of the rail.
3. Strip the threads in the rail when reinstalling.
4. Damage the rail with a screwdriver or chisel when trying to hammer the hyfax off.
5. Swear uncontrollably - which is what I do as it is always harder than i remember.

final price was only $50.00. Can't beat the newbie in that!!!
Larry has treated me good.

 

[Super Sled]

$26 for parts and $50 for labor, i'd let the dealer do it. You will do one or more of the following the first time:

1. Strip the heads off the screws holding the hyfax in.
2. Break a screw off inside of the rail.
3. Strip the threads in the rail when reinstalling.
4. Damage the rail with a screwdriver or chisel when trying to hammer the hyfax off.
5. Swear uncontrollably - which is what I do as it is always harder than i remember.

final price was only $50.00. Can't beat the newbie in that!!!
Larry has treated me good.

Good going then Apex55. Sometimes the aggravation isn't worth the $20 or $25 in labor, which was all you spent. I'd have made the same choice under those circumstances.

 

[410shooter]

Going to change my LTX hyfax. On other lighter sleds I have tipped them over on the side, onto some cushions, anyone still doing that? Whats the easiest way? Nothing in tech section about this.

 

[mr. shide]

i lift the rear up with an engine hoist or strap or cable or whatever to get it about 2-3 feet off the ground. Then I start to drive it out wit a hammer and punch where the screw hole is. You may have to put the punch at the front of the hyfax once you start getting it out. be careful not to get into the aluminum rail. keep hitting it out. you will have to keep re-alligning your punch and angle etc. once I get about 4-8 inches out the back of the seld I snap a pair of vice grips to the hyfax(perpendicular to hyfax) then start hammering it out by hitting the vice grips. Lube the hell out of the new ones when re-installing and they will come off very easily next time.

 

[LJ 452]

You can tip it over but only on the right side. The chaincase would be closest to the ground. If you go the other way it's likely that the oil in the tank will end up in your air box. As far as technique, there are a few, a search will give you detailed directions of most. I prefer the "remove skid" method, ussually you end up finding something that your better off finding in the garage rather than trial side.

 

[Mooseman]

Here's an even easier way:

1. Jack up rear end
2. Loosen track
3. Remove screws on front
4. Pound one slide until it sticks through the back window of the track
5. Start up sled, put in reverse and tap the gas.

Slide will peel off and land on the floor under sled. Do just one side at a time and make sure nobody is in front or rear of sled. Repeat for the other slide. Here's a video about it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5s9huklRu8

 

[Irv]

Here's an even easier way:

1. Jack up rear end
2. Loosen track
3. Remove screws on front
4. Pound one slide until it sticks through the back window of the track
5. Start up sled, put in reverse and tap the gas.

Slide will peel off and land on the floor under sled. Do just one side at a time and make sure nobody is in front or rear of sled. Repeat for the other slide. Here's a video about it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5s9huklRu8

Just watching that vid, I think I will do it the old way by removing the skid or just pull the slides through the window with a set of vise grips or whatever.
Looks like some things could go wrong or possibly cause some damage by using that reverse method?

 

[snappy]

lots of wd-40 helps in the removal of the old ones too.

 

[mr. shide]

yeah i dont think skid removal is necessary unless they are "frozen" on there. just pound them out the back. just lube them with thin grease or thick oil when re-installing and then replacement from then on will be a cake walk.

 

[breakinbarrs]

I am with lj on this one. I have a friend that had a carrier wheel bearing fail at a hundred mph, track locked up and what ensued was not pretty. The wheels and bearings on these things from the factory are $h!t.