I got Loose Nuts...(with photos of the FIX)

[Phazed-Coug]

Don't get the wrong idea..

Upper A Arm nuts, lost one today, luckily the sled is limp'able if its lost.

This is the nut that holds the heim joint/bolt to the A-arm.

For future reference
it is a M14 bolt with 1.50 pitch.

The dealer ordered me another.
My plan is to drill a hole in the bolt, and slip a cotter pin
through, to eliminate nut loss.

 

[WFO]

Do you think Blue Loctite would hold the nut on?

 

[Phazed]

Someone on this forum had that happen I believe, and their A-arm ending up being bent as a result.

The cotter pin sounds like a good idea.

 

[Phazed-Coug]

Blue should hold it on..
The factory nut has some kind of "locking feature"
apparently not very functional... I'm just glad I wasn't going too
fast when it happened.

The cotter pin should be just fine, I mean they use it on the
skiis and a couple other nuts, apparently this one
wasn't as important? LOL. but I'll have to use a replacement
nut on the other side as well, as the factory nut doesn't seem to leave enough threads to drill.

My A-arms look good, but my spindle got a little scratched up
I'll look closer when I get a chance.

-Oh yeah, I checked 1 phazer, and two venture lites, and all three had 1/2 turn or more to tighten up, so they are all loose. My other side had 1 turn till it was tight.

Please check yours I'd like to see how many more are loose.

 

[WFO]

Thanks for the "Heads-Up." I just checked mine and, thankfully, they were both tight. Just to play it safe, however, I removed the nuts and reinstalled them with Blue Loctite. You are right - the stock nuts are to big to allow for drilling and a cotter pin. Here's a picture of the stock nut:

 

[Idaho Nytro]

I went riding today and mine were both loose on my mtn lite.

 

[SharkAttak]

how about backing them out and locktiting them back in?

 

[pat the rat]

the phazer comes at the dealer without the a arms attached if im not mistaken,its a dealer set up

 

[frees-tyler]

A-arms are attached from factory. Shocks, skis and bumper are the only things that get installed on the front end.

 

[WFO]

how about backing them out and locktiting them back in?

That's exactly what I did.

 

[Phazed-Coug]

The fix

Here is the fix, and there is just enough tread to drill a
5/64 hole with the stock NUT.

 

[Phazed]

Nice. You didn't have much room at all to drill that. The hole has to be right on the edge of the threading. Or at least thats how it looks.

 

[Phazed-Coug]

Yup its inbetween the last two threads.
Its not a structural part of the "bolt"
its just to stop the nut if it decides to take
a walk. I may choose another type of cotter, but
these were nice and easy. heck a small wire would
work fine as well. I didn't want this to happen ever again
and its inexcusable that such an integral piece
wouldn't be on there more securely. Time to do a once over
on all the exposed nuts and bolts on the sled.

Don't need the skid falling off next.

 

[Irondoghalf]

I think buying the metric nut in the size you need as a castle nut. This is the style nut used on auto tie rod ends and ball joints.

Take it up to its torque, then drill straight through on the flat and hole that is easiest to get at (i presume straight up). Put the cotter pin in, done.

If you ever have to take it apart, the series of holes in the nut will allow you to come back to the hole in the shaft.

 

[SharkAttak]

I think buying the metric nut in the size you need as a castle nut. This is the style nut used on auto tie rod ends and ball joints.

Take it up to its torque, then drill straight through on the flat and hole that is easiest to get at (i presume straight up). Put the cotter pin in, done.

If you ever have to take it apart, the series of holes in the nut will allow you to come back to the hole in the shaft.

i think the castle nut would work great