Phazed-Coug
Expert
Don't get the wrong idea..
Upper A Arm nuts, lost one today, luckily the sled is limp'able if its lost.
This is the nut that holds the heim joint/bolt to the A-arm.
For future reference
it is a M14 bolt with 1.50 pitch.
The dealer ordered me another.
My plan is to drill a hole in the bolt, and slip a cotter pin
through, to eliminate nut loss.
Upper A Arm nuts, lost one today, luckily the sled is limp'able if its lost.
This is the nut that holds the heim joint/bolt to the A-arm.
For future reference
it is a M14 bolt with 1.50 pitch.
The dealer ordered me another.
My plan is to drill a hole in the bolt, and slip a cotter pin
through, to eliminate nut loss.
Attachments
Do you think Blue Loctite would hold the nut on?
Someone on this forum had that happen I believe, and their A-arm ending up being bent as a result.
The cotter pin sounds like a good idea.
The cotter pin sounds like a good idea.
Phazed-Coug
Expert
Blue should hold it on..
The factory nut has some kind of "locking feature"
apparently not very functional... I'm just glad I wasn't going too
fast when it happened.
The cotter pin should be just fine, I mean they use it on the
skiis and a couple other nuts, apparently this one
wasn't as important? LOL. but I'll have to use a replacement
nut on the other side as well, as the factory nut doesn't seem to leave enough threads to drill.
My A-arms look good, but my spindle got a little scratched up
I'll look closer when I get a chance.
-Oh yeah, I checked 1 phazer, and two venture lites, and all three had 1/2 turn or more to tighten up, so they are all loose. My other side had 1 turn till it was tight.
Please check yours I'd like to see how many more are loose.
The factory nut has some kind of "locking feature"
apparently not very functional... I'm just glad I wasn't going too
fast when it happened.
The cotter pin should be just fine, I mean they use it on the
skiis and a couple other nuts, apparently this one
wasn't as important? LOL. but I'll have to use a replacement
nut on the other side as well, as the factory nut doesn't seem to leave enough threads to drill.
My A-arms look good, but my spindle got a little scratched up
I'll look closer when I get a chance.
-Oh yeah, I checked 1 phazer, and two venture lites, and all three had 1/2 turn or more to tighten up, so they are all loose. My other side had 1 turn till it was tight.
Please check yours I'd like to see how many more are loose.
Thanks for the "Heads-Up." I just checked mine and, thankfully, they were both tight. Just to play it safe, however, I removed the nuts and reinstalled them with Blue Loctite. You are right - the stock nuts are to big to allow for drilling and a cotter pin. Here's a picture of the stock nut:
Attachments
Idaho Nytro
Expert
I went riding today and mine were both loose on my mtn lite.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
how about backing them out and locktiting them back in?
pat the rat
Lifetime Member
the phazer comes at the dealer without the a arms attached if im not mistaken,its a dealer set up
frees-tyler
Extreme
A-arms are attached from factory. Shocks, skis and bumper are the only things that get installed on the front end.
SharkAttak said:how about backing them out and locktiting them back in?
That's exactly what I did.
Phazed-Coug
Expert
Nice. You didn't have much room at all to drill that. The hole has to be right on the edge of the threading. Or at least thats how it looks.
Phazed-Coug
Expert
Yup its inbetween the last two threads.
Its not a structural part of the "bolt"
its just to stop the nut if it decides to take
a walk. I may choose another type of cotter, but
these were nice and easy. heck a small wire would
work fine as well. I didn't want this to happen ever again
and its inexcusable that such an integral piece
wouldn't be on there more securely. Time to do a once over
on all the exposed nuts and bolts on the sled.
Don't need the skid falling off next.
Its not a structural part of the "bolt"
its just to stop the nut if it decides to take
a walk. I may choose another type of cotter, but
these were nice and easy. heck a small wire would
work fine as well. I didn't want this to happen ever again
and its inexcusable that such an integral piece
wouldn't be on there more securely. Time to do a once over
on all the exposed nuts and bolts on the sled.
Don't need the skid falling off next.
Irondoghalf
Veteran
I think buying the metric nut in the size you need as a castle nut. This is the style nut used on auto tie rod ends and ball joints.
Take it up to its torque, then drill straight through on the flat and hole that is easiest to get at (i presume straight up). Put the cotter pin in, done.
If you ever have to take it apart, the series of holes in the nut will allow you to come back to the hole in the shaft.
Take it up to its torque, then drill straight through on the flat and hole that is easiest to get at (i presume straight up). Put the cotter pin in, done.
If you ever have to take it apart, the series of holes in the nut will allow you to come back to the hole in the shaft.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
Irondoghalf said:I think buying the metric nut in the size you need as a castle nut. This is the style nut used on auto tie rod ends and ball joints.
Take it up to its torque, then drill straight through on the flat and hole that is easiest to get at (i presume straight up). Put the cotter pin in, done.
If you ever have to take it apart, the series of holes in the nut will allow you to come back to the hole in the shaft.
i think the castle nut would work great
Similar threads
- Replies
- 22
- Views
- 2K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.