inside ski lift

[apexg88]

Im new to the yamaha deal.. Got an 06 apex with 300 miles on it. I have ridden it for 1000 miles and my only discomfort is the inside ski lift.. Any ideas on how to minimize this?

 

[Iceman57]

Lower the A-arms (loosen the tension on the front springs). I also went up one hole with the limiter strap (adds more ski pressure though) and the more I lean into the turn the flatter it corners.

 

[SRXracer]

I dealt with the same issue this weekend. You need to back some of the transfer out of rear skid. I ended up at about 1 tick less than the neutral/stock setting. You will be amazed at how flat it corners.

 

[Iceman57]

I dealt with the same issue this weekend. You need to back some of the transfer out of rear skid. I ended up at about 1 tick less than the neutral/stock setting. You will be amazed at how flat it corners.

I backed off on the transfer rod and the traction suffered big time. I then added a 12mm sway bar and returned the transfer rod to just past the stock setting and the ski lift is gone and I have my traction back.

 

[meklke]

When you guys are saying"stock setting" on the transfer are you saying half way or some place else?

 

[SRXracer]

Stock is half way.

I think its just a personal thing Iceman, we were doing a several day ride putting on over 200 miles a day, so i am happy to give up a little bit of traction for a much happier ride in the corner. Personally, i like my sled a little loose in the corners, youy can run them a lot faster that way.
If we are playing around for a day racing, thats a different story. By all means crank it up then.

 

[apltx08]

I got a set of GYTR clickers this year and got them SHIMMED/shortened the travel by 5/8" and lowered my front end COG by almost 2" and "A" arms almost parallel w/13mm sway bar pulled limiter strap up 1hole and rails in corners it made a huge difference in cornering without sacraficing ride quality, also be careful not to over power your rear MONO spring make sure to be within SAG specs...check out my AVATAR

 

[Wisconsin]

the 13mm sway bar from pioneer performance also helps. this is in the FAQ section. PM for details if you need them.

 

[gotta-b-blue]

throttle

I have leveled the a-arms, tried different holes in the limiter strap, and adjusted the transfer rod. The biggest difference has been the way I drive it in to and out of the corners. I barely ever use the brake. I let it roll into the corners, staying on the gas a bit at all times so the front of the sled doesn't dive down, then hammer it.

 

[apltx08]

Re: throttle

I let it roll into the corners, staying on the gas a bit at all times so the front of the sled doesn't dive down, then hammer it.

This is why you have to make sure you have your MONO shock and spring calibrated to your riding weight so you get that balance...you want some transfer on the front and leave some on rear cuz the higher you crank up your MONO spring the more pressure your putting on the front part of rear suspension and will tend to raise your COG on decelaration or coming in to corners and will tend to give you a TIPPY effect, this is why its very IMPORTANT to have your SAG set properly...its a lot of trial and error :exc:

 

[SledFreak]

I got a set of GYTR clickers this year and got them SHIMMED/shortened the travel by 5/8" and lowered my front end COG by almost 2" and "A" arms almost parallel w/13mm sway bar pulled limiter strap up 1hole and rails in corners it made a huge difference in cornering without sacraficing ride quality, also be careful not to over power your rear MONO spring make sure to be within SAG specs...check out my AVATAR

How did you get them shimmed?

 

[BigMac]

I noticed this too, when my sled was new, and was made a little worse by adding skis with more aggressive bite (Slydogs). I have since lowered the A arms to parallel, set transfer to minimum, and added a 13mm sway bar. Now I get inside ski lift only under very rare circumstances. I did not elect to change my limiter setting, have not found it to be necessary.

I agree with the above about sag (sit-in, rear spring preload...whatever you want to call it). I firmly believe that all other suspension settings on this machine revolve around that rear spring setting being correct for your riding weight.

 

[apltx08]

I got a set of GYTR clickers this year and got them SHIMMED/shortened the travel by 5/8" and lowered my front end COG by almost 2" and "A" arms almost parallel w/13mm sway bar pulled limiter strap up 1hole and rails in corners it made a huge difference in cornering without sacraficing ride quality, also be careful not to over power your rear MONO spring make sure to be within SAG specs...check out my AVATAR

How did you get them shimmed?

You have to get them serviced by a technician, its done from the inside of the shock they actually use a washer type on the inside piston rod...it doesn't take away a lot of travel but really improves handling.

 

[SledFreak]

I was wondering if you could put on a shorter spring with the GYTR's, like an inch and then just re-valve if you need to. You might not need to, but I'm not sure.

 

[ahicks]

I was wondering if you could put on a shorter spring with the GYTR's, like an inch and then just re-valve if you need to. You might not need to, but I'm not sure.

Thinking the shorter spring is the better plan. "Slugging" will make the extended length of the shock shorter, but doubtfull you would want the shock fully extended while the arms are parallel?

Revalve would be dependant on the shorter spring you found to replace the stocker. Good chance you could find something rated fairly close?

Couldn't agree more with the "set the sag first" concept.