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Interesting weekend with my RTX

1CrazySledder

Lifetime Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2005
Messages
2,006
Location
Cartersville, GA.
Country
USA
Snowmobile
None, looking now!
Well, we finally got some snow here in southern wi., and I have put a little over 200 miles on my RTX. I raced an '05 Mach Z and I had him out of the hole and through the mid. I was hitting at about 115mph and I let of the gas due to the fact that my sled is not fully broken in yet, then he zipped by me. We were both studded and the same size track. Don't know if he is stock or not, but I told him I'd see him again in about 1000 miles. The rtx should be really awake by then. I love the throttle response. It's right there, right now. I'm spinning at 10,500 now, so I took a shot down the river and hit the triple digits on the speedo in what seemed to be only a few seconds. I love my sled. It is no comparision to the 2000 sx700r that I came off of this year. My only complaint is I got ate up by my buddies in the trail due to the sled being really tippy. I almost flipped it once. I will have to readjust my transfer, I think. I've got 10" carbines up front and 192 1.375's in the track. What else can I do to keep the sled flat at high speeds? Lower the front? I don't want to loose the ride, I ate everything up in the trails. Loke a cadilac.
Any help would be great, it's embarrising to be beat by a 650, 700, and a 900 in the trails. I had the fastest sled was last because I could not corner like those guys, they had fun with me. :o|


-Vince A.
 

Here is the thing the A Arm Delta box chassis doesn't handle the same way a trailing arm sled does. Your going to have get the feel of the new chassis. If you want it to corner better pull the strap up one spot and take some pressure off the floats so the sway bar can couple quicker. Get the front end where it's soft but not too soft to take the bumps. remember if the trail gets rough you can bump them up real quick. If the get flat and tight Make them super soft.
 
First time I got on an RX1 I thought I was gonna lose it too. I was going up a decent incline with some nice rollers and I "FELT" like I was gonna tip over. Remember you are sitting about 6 feet higher on your RTX than you SXR. You just gotta get use to it then your buddies will be wondering how the hell you got 3 miles ahead of them ;)!
 
You only really need about 144 studs down the middle & take half the carbide off. This will allow the sled to be alittle forgiving in the corners, thus you shouldn't have so much "tippy feeling" & with the studs only in the center you'll have the hole shot in the last 30% of the corner. This is where your buddies will realize what the claimed 148.9 Hp is all about. :flag:
 
I have always ran 192 studs in everything I've owned. Hopefully, I just need to get used to the sled and munky around with the suspension and hopefully that will improve the cornering abilities of the sled. I'd hate to have to buy anouther track and re-stud it. That would suck. I will have to make the stud count work. I've read that tighting the strap one notch and putting my transfer to min. setting should help, also. I think my transfer is set now at above med. More towards max. I'll get messing around with it this weekend.
Thanks for the replies.
You guys are correct, though. I have to learn how to drive all over again. That engine brake is awsome though. I'm starting to figure out how to use that to my advantage. I learned the hard way not to give the sled alot of gas coming out of those corners. Man, the torque is unbeleivable. WOW.

Vince
 
I only think you have too much carbide... 8 inchers are plenty... Plus adjust your weight transer to the LOWEST setting... it will keep the skis on the ground

Fourstrokes have to be driven completly differnet than two strokes... Use the engine braking to your advantage...
 
How much pressure in your front shocks? As mentioned try reducing the air pressure a little. You probably have too much ride height in the front. My Apex handles awesome! Very flat and precise. Also you should set up your rear sag properly see the sticky post on how to set up the mono.
 
Your not alone on this. I'm comming off an SRX that just flat railed in the twisties. I agree it'll take some dialing in and getting used to. :4STroke:
 
TT670:

What pressure on the Floats did you settle in at? I ran 95PSI last weekend and found handling a bit tippy, but the trails were not very well set up.[/quote]
 
Yes these sleds are very different then the old style chassis.After a few rides you get use to it.I agree soften the front and adjust the transfer rods for trail riding.I ride with my transfer rods backed off 2 lines from stock setting less trasfer.I have also found the sled still gets great traction at this setting.Get a set of hand adjust nuts and play with the setting when trail riding go from max to min and trust me you will see a huge difference.
 
I have checked the shock pressure. 105psi on the right, as you are sitting on the sled, and 80 psi on the left. WTF? I should have checked all that stuff before I rode it the first time, but I have learned even well known dealers can maybe mess up now and then. I now have my floats at 60 psi, transfer to min. Dial set to max hard. I'll be going out tonight whan I return from work or tomorrow to check it out. Why would there be so much pressure in one side over the other?

Exactly how can I use this engine break to my advantage? Can I go say 30-40% into the curves before letting of the throttle or something? I need a lesson with this engine break.

Vince
 
1 crazy, if you decide to pull some studs thats ok. I had 192 in my 03 RX-1 and went down to 144 in the middle. I put 7,000 miles on the track with no problems. I have 144 down the middle on my Apex with the stock 4 inch carbides. The Apex handles very close to my SX's that I've had. Right now it does push a tad when pushed thru a twistie. I'll go to 6inch carbides that should take care of it for me. I didnt even lift a ski. I agree with you on the 1,000 miles, she'll get that much faster.
 
With that many studs, I would re-adjust the transfer to the min and tighten the limiter strap one notch. But, you will lose some acceleration. But to me, you have way to many studs for trail riding. 144 up the center with 8" carbide is all you need. This way you should be able to leave the transfer where it is, without having to adjust the limiter. See, as far as I'm concerned, having a sled good for drags, cannot be the same for trail riding. The handling characteristics change way too much. I guess it all depends on what you ride. If you ride smooth tight groomed trails, then too many studs is not good.
 
Elevate the front end off the ground and have 52 psi in each shock. It will give you a nice low ride height, and the great thing with the Fox Floats is they never bottom out so no problem there. Also with the engine braking you just need to get the feel for when it will slow you down enough. When I ride I almost never use the brake - assuming I'm running at a comfortable but fast pace. My buddies get kind of sick of me because the new "snowless tail light" sure collects the snow and it doesn't melt because the LEDs don't get hot... The riding light is nowhere near as bright as the brake light.
 


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